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hedgehawg
Aug 9, 2006, 8:49 PM
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Anyone know where or when the first 5.11, 12 or 13 was established in AR?
I assume the 11 and 12 was at or near Sam's? Any idea who was involved?
Thanks
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jer
Aug 9, 2006, 9:05 PM
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This is a good question.
I would assume the first 11 was at Sams, Magazine, or Red Rock Point.
The first LEAD 12? Not sure either...so many things going on in silence in the hills.
I imagine the first rated 13 was "Euthenasia" at Sams, but that is way overrated, so maybe it was at Magazine? Are there 13s there?
jer
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gandolf
Aug 9, 2006, 9:33 PM
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There's a huge roof crack on private property, near Jasper, that I heard Tim Toula climbed back in the early 90's that clocked in at 5.13.
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hedgehawg
Aug 9, 2006, 9:39 PM
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I can't believe I forgot about Mag...Never have had the pleasure of climbing at Red Rock so I have no idea what is there.
To add to the original questions...When and where did climbers first start establishing routes in AR?
Man, we really need a post teaching an AR climbing history lesson around here. It's too bad more info is not included in any of the guide books like Eric Ulner's Vertical Heartland.
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curtis_g
Aug 9, 2006, 9:45 PM
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In reply to: It's too bad more info is not included in any of the guide books like Eric Ulner's Vertical Heartland.
The best guidebook I have ever seen. Besides an overhead area map of the entirety of each crag, I could see no possible improvements. I love the history and the route quality ratings.
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jer
Aug 13, 2006, 3:16 PM
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gandolf- I believe the roof crack you are referring to is actually 12b or c.
As far as I know, Magazine and Red Rock Point have the oldest routes on record.
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gandolf
Aug 13, 2006, 6:19 PM
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Jer - I stand corrected. Thanx.
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okieterry
Sep 21, 2006, 9:16 PM
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i know that instant karma is currently rated 5.10+...but what the heck, I think its solid 5.11 now.
In December 1979, right after Christmas, Sam Audrain and I made our first visit to Sams Throne. It was kinda cold (some snow on the ground) so we walked around a little and then wound up at that glorious east facing - sundrenched wall on the Throne.
I was immediately drawn to that crack on Instant Karma, so we saddled up and I got ready to give it a go. Just as I was starting to go, a guy showed up. I think his name was Reed or something like that. Anyway he identified himself as a climber who knew about the routes there. I asked him about the route I was just about to try and he said it was called "Instant Karma", it had been aided but it had not been led free yet!! He had a nice camera, he got set up and then I started.
Anyway, in what was one of my most enjoyable climbs of my career so far, I successfully got through the crux no falls and then meandered my way to the top.
I remember where the crack gets too small to get a jam, I reached way out with my right hand and got a horn to the right of the crack, which I then cranked on and then reached back into the crack with my left above the thin section. I think it was the first time I had ever used friends (in fact I think I had just got them as a Christmas present from my mom and dad).
Anyway, Reed ? congratulated me on my first ascent of Instant Karma and asked me how hard I thought it was. As I thought it was as hard as "Northcutts Direct" on the Bastille (which was the hardest thing I had led up to that point), I said 5.10+. Which seems to have stuck.
Years later, a friend of mine who still climbs sporatically, Carl Murray, who lives in Maysville. Oklahoma, mentioned that this Reed guy was a friend of his who he had visited one time. He recalled how he had visited him in Colorado? and Reed has a big framed photo of me on that lead.
as far as other climbs/ratings go, what is the current rating of "the world is flat" up at red rock point? duane did that one around 1985 or so.
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jer
Sep 21, 2006, 11:05 PM
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OT- excellent story!! For some reason I always thought Instant Karma was a Karpowitz route. It is considered THE 11 to send by most. Everyone knows it as 11a, but calls it 10+ anyways. Excellent send way back then with your new found friends.
I recently did a direct finish to it. Instead of following the crack left into Patio Direct, it reaches out right to the arete, turns the corner and goes up the face at the same grade.
I love that route.
I called my jeriation "Reintarnation"
jer
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