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scrapedape
Aug 4, 2006, 7:08 PM
Post #52 of 59
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 2392
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In reply to: I must have missed that memo that said the 00 TCU was an aid piece, because I've been climbing it with on my standard rack for a few years. I took at least a 10 footer onto my 00 about 6 weeks ago. This is one of the older models though...Guess they just don't make'm like they used to. I think you can be forgiven for making that mistake, given that they have stuff like this on their website:
In reply to: TCU TESTIMONIAL -- Jeff Hollenbaugh "Hey Dave, what's that splitter over there, the thin one with the fresh anchor and no chalk?" Since we were at Supercrack Buttress I assumed all the lines had been climbed, and since Dave was a local I assumed he'd be in the know on who put the route up. Well, we all know what you get for assuming; Dave had no clue. Eying the crack I knew I would need a #4 TCU for a pod at the base of the crack. From there it was straight into several yellows (or #2s, your editorial choice here Jim), a couple of blues, a #7 for the hand-size pod rest at two-thirds height, then purples to the finish. Damn, this thing was going to be hard. Almost as an afterthought I said, "what the heck, I'll throw on a #00 just in case, they don't weigh much." "Everything weighs something," Dave quips as I clipped the #00 to the back of the harness. A black widow the size of a fifty-cent piece nestled in the initial jam should have been my first clue that we'd had a great day of climbing and that it was time to head for the cold beer at the car. Not heeding the caution, I headed up the crack. Blood was drawn as I jammed my tips into the crack and tweaked on them for purchase; the lack of traffic on the route kept the crack's edges sharp. With the last blue TCU at my knees, I lurched for the salvation of the hand jam. The first purple went in just above the hand jam. Stemmed out, with one hand still in the jam, I stretched as high as possible, snagged the #00 off the back of the harness, fully retracted the lobes, and shoved it in the crack as high and deep as I could get it; it would be my last piece. Obvious from the size of gear being placed, I wasn't going to be getting my fingers in the crack, so what to do? A shallow pod on the left face held promise. If I could fire into the pod, lay it away, get a good foot out left, stand tall and grab the in-cut ledge, I would be in there. I'd be lying if I told you I wasn't concerned about my last piece. The #00 just below my feet was on my mind as I stood tall for the in-cut. I had a lot more on my mind when the in-cut turned out to be a sandy sloper and I was air born. Coming to rest down by the hand jam I eagerly look up to see the silver sling of the #00 taught with my weight. As I said, doesn't weigh much, and boy was I happy to have brought it along. No, I didn't get the on sight. But at least I was given the chance to go for the on sight. Had I left that cam at the base I would have had to hang and have it tossed up, blowing the on sight due to fear and stupidity as opposed to a sandy sloper. The beer tasted better because I failed being spit off. It is always bitter when I fail from being stupid.
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dutyje
Aug 4, 2006, 8:05 PM
Post #53 of 59
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Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 727
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In reply to: anyway kudos to metolius for being so quick with the response. Does anyone think I could get the #00 pictured above replaced? ps the middle lobe cam stop sheered off.... thats what the picture is suppose to show... I wouldn't even ask for replacement. Just shell out the $50 for a brand new cam, with confidence that it's money well spent. I'd be happy to pay that kind of price to be kept perfectly safe in a 20' whipper. Seems like a great way to thank the gear company for a well-made piece of protection.
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billcoe_
Aug 6, 2006, 5:18 AM
Post #55 of 59
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
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In reply to: This explanation does not satisfy me. The guy took on the cam - he did not fall. Annnnnd.... if you remember when metolius adjusted their Kn ratings downward for small gear a few years back, it was to reflect rock conditions/size of the unit/ real world holding -- not to reflect the joint breaking at 5 kn. To put that into perspective a #3 swedge cable is rated at 5kn and it is tiny. I'm starting to doubt this design philosophy and appreciate that I have only purchased one. Because there ain't always other gear there to back it up. Be satisfied dude. Rock and Ice did some tests a while ago that surprised me. They measured the force generated in a toprope fall. toprope fall. Think for a moment what force a 160 lb climber could create. - - - - Done thinking? - - - What did you guess it could be? - - - - - Nope---- higher than that. 1300 lbs, higher than the 00 tcu is rated for. Toproping. That's right. Think about that and compare it to a short lead "take". Then consider carrying a screamer for that 00 placement eh?
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ctardi
Aug 16, 2006, 6:08 AM
Post #56 of 59
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Registered: Oct 8, 2004
Posts: 1278
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Well, I heard back from metolious yesterday. First off, someone I know pranked me, made it look all official that the cam failed at 46lbs, and they wouldn't send a new one. I was about to send back a nasty email, but then seen who sent that one! :twisted: My cams were pulled to 1000lbf, and survived. They have been shipped back to me, but have not arrived yet. Thank you metolious for the speedy service, and a free pull test of the gear I had questions of!
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ckirkwood9
Aug 16, 2006, 2:43 PM
Post #57 of 59
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 262
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Anyone have a link to the Rock and Ice test mentioned above?
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dfoote07
Aug 23, 2006, 3:15 PM
Post #58 of 59
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Registered: Jun 3, 2006
Posts: 50
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Hey Someone mentioned that BD had a recall a while back.... Any One know what they were recalling>> Thanks
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ctardi
Aug 23, 2006, 4:23 PM
Post #59 of 59
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Registered: Oct 8, 2004
Posts: 1278
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In reply to: Hey Someone mentioned that BD had a recall a while back.... Any One know what they were recalling>> Thanks Its on the front page of their site... http://www.bdel.com
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