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getdownfromthere
Aug 21, 2006, 1:52 AM
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Registered: Jan 9, 2003
Posts: 14
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The inside (just inside of the bone) of both of my elbows are bothering me. I'm pretty sure it's tendonitis. Does anyone have any suggestions for pre-climbing treatment (taking Advil, perhaps?) or stretches, etc. that I can do before or afterwards that will help? And plleeeeeeaaaassssseeeee don't say "don't climb for 6 weeks." I mean it.
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phojar
Aug 21, 2006, 2:12 AM
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Registered: Jul 7, 2006
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The best thing would be to see a doctor. Look up golfers elbow on the Internet for more information. Since I have no medical training I'm not really qualified to give advice, but I do have the same problem with my right elbow I have some tips that help me. I make sure to warm up good and stretch a lot, drink lots of water when I am training. When it starts hurting I stop whatever I'm doing, sorry dude but rest is the only way it can heal. I don't really like taking aleve or other stuff so I usually don't. I do wear a compression band just below my elbow during the day for twice the amount of time it takes to stop hurting. I found that doing tricep dips or other opposition exercises really help with my elbow, but don't take the word of a stranger on the Internet for this kind of stuff or do it at your own risk. Anyway, hope this helps some, take care.
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jaybro
Aug 21, 2006, 3:30 AM
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Registered: Feb 2, 2005
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Sounds like medial epicondylitis, maybe not. Advil glucosamine and limited sportclimbing (cracks are fine) till it gets better, months, depending. Worked for me.
Or go to a sportsmed/climbing-MD.
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squierbypetzl
Moderator
Aug 21, 2006, 3:44 AM
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Registered: Jul 6, 2005
Posts: 3431
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Take the next month and a half off... jk
Taking a pill before you climb is a bad idea, it´ll just keep you from feeling pain until you´ve messed yourself up even worse.
check out: http://www.climbininjuries.com, see if anything sounds familiar.
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drbreuer
Sep 1, 2006, 3:57 AM
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Registered: Mar 22, 2006
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I had a similiar problem from bouldering and went and saw my chiropractor. He said that I had slightly dislocated my elbow causing a strain on my arm. Just a thouhgt.
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ndru
Sep 1, 2006, 6:31 AM
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Registered: Sep 1, 2006
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Eccentric Loading. For that inner elbow tendinitis, which I have, I have had unbelievable success with these exercises. An example is a reverse wrist curl - lay your forearm, palm up, on a bench allowing you hand to hang over the side. Place a 10-15 lb weight in your hand and instead of curling the weight into your body, focus on slowly letting the weight down. Once fully extended, I usually use my other hand to curl the weight back up so I can really focus on the letdown. There are all kinds of exercises like these. It is not too hard to make some up either. The effectiveness of eccentric loading is becoming well know:
Alfredson et al 1998; Mafi et al, 2001; Fahlstrom et al, 2003; Roos et al, 2004; Öhberg et al, 2004; Jonsson & Alfredson, 2005; Wilson & Best, 2005; Rees et al, 2006
It took about two months of these excercises with lots of stretching, proper warm-up and ice to really see an improvement, but I never took longer than a few days off climbing.
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david_smithrock
Sep 1, 2006, 7:41 PM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2006
Posts: 361
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That's really common; lots of climbers who really push themselves have nagging elbow pain. Usually it's not that bad, more of an irritating ache. I bet it's on the inside of the elbow, just in front and inside of the point, right?
I'm pretty sure it's from pulling in (like bear hugging slopers, or powerful sidepulls). Try to avoid those moves for a while, which if you are a boulderer probably makes traverses tough. Otherwise, either deal with the ache or take Motrin. (taking time off not being an option :) )
Of course, don't stress your body more than it's ready for. Take it slow if you haven't been climbing in a while. And if you don't climb very often, you can't expect to crank full power for long without problems. But even if you climb 5.14 and climb 5 days a week, you'll feel your elbows hurting from time to time (or all the time).
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