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likethegoddess
Sep 4, 2002, 9:07 PM
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Have you had a climbing mentor? How did you meet and develope that relationship? What has it offered you?
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fitz
Sep 4, 2002, 9:18 PM
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Yes, I had some experienced climbers take me under their wings in my earliest climbing days. For me, it was universally positive. I suppose it depends on the people involved though.
Most importantly, it gave my climbing sound judgement before I had a chance to really develop my own. This is perhaps not as important to a die hard sport climber, but it was important to me, when I essentially started multi-pitch, and then moved to the mountains.
It also gave me good models to emulate. Lots of things seem simple in books and theory, but it is the small details that turn things like rope management, hauling, jugging, and etc. into either a chore, or a nightmare.
I'd say that good guides and good mentors have a lot in common. Some people are more natural teachers than others. If someone is always too busy to explain the why, instead of just encouraging you to emulate, you aren't building judgement and an outlook of your own.
-jjf
[ This Message was edited by: fitz on 2002-09-04 17:24 ]
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timpanogos
Sep 4, 2002, 10:04 PM
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Meet my first mentor on the West Slabs of Olympus (AlpineRocket) – I learned of the right attitude of safety from him – first exposure to rope handling and multi-pitch trad. I knew from there on out the type of partners I wanted on the other end of the rope.
The mentor that I have climbed the most with, I meet at a WMC Thursday night climb – Challenge Buttress – BCC. I was totally green and watching one of the main stay members take a lead sport fall 3rd clip on a 5.9 with a belay person that was 50 pounds lighter than him. After we pulled her back down past him (he was 3’ off the deck, she was 8’) He gave them hell and anchored her down. I followed him around and listened to what he had to say from that point on – the old wise one (hey he’s older than me, been climbing since the 70’s and has an impressive tick list). To my luck, he was wounded – just having had elbow surgery, and was just working on easy ones to get it back in shape – I gladly carried water, shoes, lunch whatever and started following him on multi-pitch trad routes in BCC and LCC. Like AlpineRocket – safety is number one with him. So what was of most value (so far, still being mentored):
1. Safety
2. Me cleaning placements – watching anchors
3. Him critiquing placements/anchors
4. Rack/gear handling.
Thanks John and Will!
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wyoclimber
Sep 4, 2002, 11:25 PM
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I sure wished i had a mentor. When i started climbing, in an area where there were no other climber, long before internet and such, it was trial and error. I still wonder how a couple of 14 year olds with a rope and a couple of 'biners didn't kill themselves... it was a couple of years of this before we took our first class and learned about little things like the figure 8 follow thru, belay brakes, harnesses and other things that save lives.
ahhh, but now we have a couple of 16 year olds that think they are indestructable with their new found knowledge!
wow, me shudders to think...
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hangerlessbolt
Sep 5, 2002, 7:14 PM
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I had just returned from a multi-day backpacking trip in the Weminuche Wilderness in CO.
After talking to my best friend, who was climbing hard 5.11’s, about needing a partner (I live in CA he lives in CO) he suggested I get online and check out some of the climbing sites.
So when I got back (to work of course) I logged on and came across the Climbing Archive. I put in a post about my level and (lack of) experience. Within the first week I had received 6 emails. I chose the person with the most experience and took my name off the message board.
He and I climbed every weekend at Joshua Tree for three months. He was a great teacher…super patient. Had me leading trad before I ever led sport. He taught me the tricks that he had learned after circling the globe and climbing with numerous partners.
There were times when he turned down his regular partner just to come out and teach me.
That was almost four years ago and I will forever be grateful.
Thanks Chris Sheridan…for being my friend and mentor.
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data118
Sep 5, 2002, 7:51 PM
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I desparately need a mentor.
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bluesky
Sep 5, 2002, 7:53 PM
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My thanks goes to Vance - my friend and mentor
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noosphere
Sep 5, 2002, 8:01 PM
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climbinganne is my mentor.
Just kiddin', but I wish I had one.
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wyclimber
Sep 5, 2002, 8:16 PM
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Had a wonderful mentor, several actually, and have also mentored several others as well....but
Have you ever been on The Mentor in the VRG?!
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rollingstone
Sep 5, 2002, 10:17 PM
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He did not know it, but in the mid-70s I started climbing a lot with Olympia area climber, Larry Nielson. He had worked fore several years in the early 70s at RMI with Dusan Jagersky, and other really good climbers from the N.W. I ran into him in college where he was working on an advanced degree, and we just started climbing together.
It was Larry who really showed me how to move fast in alpine terrain, simul-climbing stuff I never would have thought to try on my own. We did several trips to the Canadian Rockies, had a great near-miss on Mt. Robson, and spent several summers doing really great alpine routes in the Cascades!
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climbjs
Sep 5, 2002, 10:38 PM
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My mentor was Pete DeLannoy (whether he knows it or not). He was teaching college Chemistry and was the father of climbing in Spearfish Canyon. He was really interested in climbing hard, pushing grades, and had tons of positive energy.
Pete has done all aspects of climbing and is a wealth of knowledge of (almost) any area.
Without him as a mentor, I'd be still TR'ing 5.6's.
[ This Message was edited by: climbjs on 2002-09-05 15:42 ]
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punk
Sep 5, 2002, 10:53 PM
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I didn’t had a mentor per-se
I had great partners for rock climbing from East Germany (Alex) the most experienced rock climber I know and an awesome technical climber
For alpine I had 2 Polish partners that thought me everything I know and more about Ice and snow climbing they were Leshek and John …I just love those low key awesome climbers
Aid will be John again no one I know is more gutsy and bold then John
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mreardon
Sep 5, 2002, 10:59 PM
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I had a couple guys mentor me. They were just a couple of old codgers (and some the same age as me but with a ton more experience) who constantly nagged at me about proper gear placements, and being careful with the knees (pre-crashpads, I would just exit the boulder by jumping to the ground rather than downclimb), etc. I only climbed with them a couple times, but I was hooked. Within 3 weeks of hanging with them, I led a few of the pitches on "Whodunnit" (5.9) at Tahquitz and spent the next 10 years running into and often climbing with these guys. They still don't know the influence they played on me, and some barely remember, but it was great. Oh yeah, their names were Bob Kamps, Jim Bridwell, Mike Waugh, Kevin Thaw, Scott Cosgrove, Bill Leventhal, Jeff Johnson, and a handful of other "unknowns".
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thomasribiere
Sep 6, 2002, 10:36 AM
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A girl from Germany I met in western France where we were students, 7 years ago. We still climb together in Italy and Germany, with her boyfriend. She's by now making a big trip in South AFrica / Zimbabwe with a climbing organisation.
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betaben
Sep 6, 2002, 11:23 AM
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My mentor actually was and is my mailman, Chris. He has taugt me alot about all types of climbing. we have a great relationship on and off the rock which really makes for a great friendship and has fostered an graet deal of mutual respect. If you have an attitude to learn, you can learn alot in a short period of time. And remember even if you don't have a mentor per'se you can learn alot everytime you go climbing. If you need help at the crag or on the mountain ask someone climbing there, I have always got answers to my questions,even if it was a polite "You need to ask someone else who knows more." it is always appreciateed. I have met some of the best people in this manner.
But, be prepared before you go. You shouldn't rely on people at the crag to teach you the ropes.
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jammer
Sep 6, 2002, 1:33 PM
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Unfortunatly, I had/have no mentor. Everything I have learned, I've picked up from a lot of different climbers. I do wish I was more flexable so I could climb with someone who was willing to teach/mentor me, but there is not enough time at this junction in my life ... maybe someday? I envy those who have mentors
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