Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
two haul bags & 2 haul lines for the P.O. Wall?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


groovemojo


Aug 23, 2006, 12:26 PM
Post #1 of 5 (1249 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 7, 2005
Posts: 11

two haul bags & 2 haul lines for the P.O. Wall?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hi all,

My partner and I are heading out for the PO Wall in mid-September. We're old and slow so we plan on about 8-10 nights on the wall. We're assuming that we'll need 2 haul bags, rather than 1 main bag (9000 cc) and 1 smaller bag (5000 cc) - does this sound right? Our big controversy is hauling with 2 haul lines, one pig after the other, versus hauling both pigs with a 3:1. My partner thinks that 2 hauls is the way to go, much easier to do; while I think that 2 hauls will be a clusterfest, will take too long, and hauling both pigs with a 3:1 won't be too difficult (the rigging is not a problem, we're very experienced there). So, okay, what do you all think? 2 full sized pigs? 1 biggie and 1 smaller? 2 hauls or 1 big one?

Also, any other words of wisdom/suggestions/comments/sarcasm regarding the PO are sincerely appreciated.

Thanks very much.


areuinclimber


Aug 23, 2006, 1:09 PM
Post #2 of 5 (1249 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 29, 2004
Posts: 436

Re: tow haul bags & 2 haul lines for the P.O. Wall? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

best way to do it is 3:1, 2 lines would be way too much to deal with and completely unnecessary. clip one (steel) or 2 (reg. climbing) biners to each pig and bust out a couple wired nuts (everyone has extras lying around) and clip them to a single steel biner or 2 climbing biners. that way you have a single tie in point for the haul line and your entire system is more bomber and streamlined (less snagging potential).

later.


Partner holdplease2


Aug 23, 2006, 3:03 PM
Post #3 of 5 (1248 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 17, 2002
Posts: 1733

Re: tow haul bags & 2 haul lines for the P.O. Wall? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Howdy:

Having taken that long on a few walls with a few people (or more) here's what worked great:

Take two pigs, one for you and one for your bro. This keeps your stuff sorted and organized, even if you don't fill the pigs all the way. Plus you have two big bags for the walk off, nice. Fighting over who dropped whose sleeping bag trying to get to their own food is not fun.

Join both of these pigs to the same haul line...REDUNDANTLY (don't ask) with an AUTOLOCKER not a screw lock, they vibrate open!!! DONT ASK!)

For the first few days the leader can either haul with a 2:1 OR (what we did ) just wait 15 minutes for the pitch to be cleaned and let the second act as a counterweight jugging or helping haul behind the person that led the pitch. Keep this "counterweight jugger" tethered to the anchor, not just the haul line, at all times.

This is fast, easy, and far less likely to cause a cluster of rope, which is really stressful when you are just starting out.

After the first half of the wall, you will find that the leader can actually move the pigs just fine on their own, and it works very nicely.

Hope this helps.

-Kate.


lambone


Aug 23, 2006, 3:30 PM
Post #4 of 5 (1248 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2003
Posts: 1399

Re: tow haul bags & 2 haul lines for the P.O. Wall? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

We did South Seas -> PO in June in 10 days. The hauling is not bad until the final pitch, I would recomend having a lower-out line.

We had alot of stuff! 2 fat pigs and a sub-bag for day stuff. We would haul the sub bag and main hauline with an 8mil tag line and mini-traxion(radio, belay parka, snaks + smokes). Then we'd haul the fat load with one 10mil static.

Towards the bottom of the wall with a ton of water the leader used a 3:1 system to put a dent in the hauling until the 2nd reached the belay. Then we team hauled the rest 1:1.

By the third or 4th day we could haul 1:1 by ourselves. Higher up the wall we were beating the cleaner with the haulbag. Although it was allways a close race.

Do the South Seas start, it is stellar. As noted by pymche there are bad blots up high...the kind you don't want to be on too long. Bring 20 cinching rivet hangers. The Aluetion Chain pitch is a puckerfest!

If you can pack all your crap for PO into one big pig and one small one, go for it! I'd still haul the small pig first with the tag line. Once you get all your stuff together I suspect you'll be filling two big pigs easily, in that case it is still nice to have a easy access lieghtweight third bag, as we did.


ptpp


Nov 1, 2007, 8:00 PM
Post #5 of 5 (687 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2007
Posts: 38

Re: [lambone] tow haul bags & 2 haul lines for the P.O. Wall? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You should only use mechanically advantageous hauling systems [2:1 and 3:1] if you have to. It is much quicker to make two 1:1 hauls than one 2:1 hauls. This is not Big Wall Theory, this is tried and tested Big Wall Fact.

Yeah, a bit more clusterfuckage with two ropes but still quicker and easier.

3:1 hauling is almost always overkill, and unless you have a really bad haul across a terrible ledge, you may never need to use it. The "resetting" is a total pain, and you need a clear shot down the haul line free of it hitting any ledges

2:1 is a great way to haul, but you really have to practise it, and fine tune it, to make it work. Plus you gotta have a static haul line, or it won't work.

Go practise hauling bags of rocks at your local crag, it will get your 2:1 fine tuned pretty well.

Basically, what Kate and Matt said.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook