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hoodwink beta?
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Aug 23, 2006, 12:48 PM
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 169

hoodwink beta?
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so i know there is a west coast forum somewhere, but i can't seem to find it. but can anyone help me out with some beta for hoodwink up in tuolumne? i'm about 5 7 and am having a hard time reaching the roof. i managed to get over the roof, it was just getting over to the holds below the roof that i struggled with. i'd appreciate advice from anyone whose climbed it!
:) amy

Partner holdplease2

Aug 23, 2006, 2:56 PM
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Registered: Dec 17, 2002
Posts: 1733

Re: hoodwink beta? [In reply to]
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Hi Amy:

The holds on the right below the roof were a series of jug/rail type things leading out to the edge of the roof. I recal getting a pretty good grip on those and heel hooking on the rail closer to the wall for two moves and inching out to the roof the roof.

This was followed by kinda lunging up to the fingerlock used for pulling over the roof. After getting that it was cut the feet right so that they swing around and heel hook to the left and rock up.

At this point fall off and get hauled over it by your partner on a 3:1 mechananical advantage using a reverso in autoblock position and a tibloc. This worked great for me.

Hope that helps.


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