|
|
|
|
phillygoat
Aug 24, 2006, 8:07 PM
Post #1 of 12
(1423 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 22, 2004
Posts: 428
|
... then I need to talk to you!
In the spirit of adventure my wife and I agreed to go on a trip with friends before any of us had any real idea of what we were getting ourselves into. We've used the search function on this site, checked MANY, MANY links, and even gotten bits of info from Josh Lowell and Lynn Hill. However, it would be invaluable to us to be able to talk to someone who has climbed over there in the last few years.
Any beta would be appreciated, but we are mainly concerned with the condition of routes that were put in the late '90's, new route info, etc. We've read accounts that suggest bringing a couple of 70m ropes, many draws and hangers to replace those missing from routes.
Will we be hooking our way up limestone features, tapping in new stainless bolts to replace corroded POS, or actually have our hands full with many, quality routes to choose from? Or just leave the ropes at home and DWS?
Not sure how many folks have been climbing there in the last few years, but if you're one of them, PLEASE get in touch with me. (We'll buy you dinner, or something! :lol: )
Sincerely,
phillip
|
|
|
|
|
meatball
Aug 24, 2006, 9:28 PM
Post #2 of 12
(1423 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 9, 2003
Posts: 47
|
I was in HaLong Bay last month (July '06). I didn't have a lot of time (24 hours), was with a group of non-climbers, and despite an exhaustive search was unable to find any beta whatsoever prior to the trip. So I went into the whole thing king of blind.
We (two couples) took an overnight cruise in the bay. I didn't see any bolts, and quite frankly would have no way of describing their location if I had seen any. The bay is a huge maze of islands...very easy to get turned around. Our dropped anchor at a man-made beach for a couple hours (I preferred the serenity of sailing through the bay, but apparently the "beach" is a popular spot for boats to stop). I rented a jet-ski for half an hour ($20 US...ouch, i know, but I HAD to get my hands on the rock somehow). Spent a bit deep water soloing. Good times.
If you can't find any beta, it'd be worth the trip for deep water soloing (watch the clip on bigupproduction.com for a clip of Halong DWS). Might want to take a long "pole" to check depth if you're afraid of impaling yourself like me. The water picks up the minerals from the limeston and is emerald green...hard to determind depth. Many of the cruises for hire have scheduled itineraries (Ex: Depart, sail to lagoon X, guide passengers through cave, sail to lagoon x, let passenger swim for an hour, sail to beach, etc.). My suggestion is to hire a private boat so you tell them where to go, when to stop, and for how long. A jetski would be IDEAL because (1) so many of the islands are so close together, and (2) it gives you access to many starter holds you would not be able to gain from the water (serious barnicles in some places). I'd just stand on the back of a jetski, and my driver woudl drive me under an overhang, I'd catch the jug and climb on.
Climb with shoes! It is freakishly sharp! I had some nasty cuts after just a few minutes of climbing. Take tape, etc. to repair yourself if necessary. not sure what the "rules" are for climbing, but in most places it is very secluded...no one to bother you.
I can tell you that it will be very frustrating because everywhere you look will be amazing lines. You'll wonder why there aren't bolts all over the place.
That being said, if you never even get to touch the rock, you'll have a fantastic time. One of the most spectacular places these eyes have seen. Enjoy and let me know if you have additional questions.
Kevin
|
|
|
|
|
phillygoat
Aug 24, 2006, 9:54 PM
Post #3 of 12
(1423 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 22, 2004
Posts: 428
|
Thanks for the thorough reply! I have seen the DWS footage and I have an issue of R&I (#137) that has a short article on climbing there, with an overview map showing the islands with the most development. But I'm really eager to hear more first-hand accounts. And, yeah, we're all telling ourselves that it'll be an amazing experience regardless of how much climbing we get in. (For the most part, I believe it. :lol: )
|
|
|
|
|
phillygoat
Aug 25, 2006, 2:08 AM
Post #4 of 12
(1423 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 22, 2004
Posts: 428
|
(bump), again.
|
|
|
|
|
phillygoat
Aug 25, 2006, 6:21 PM
Post #5 of 12
(1423 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 22, 2004
Posts: 428
|
bump, excuse me!
|
|
|
|
|
climbingaz
Aug 25, 2006, 7:15 PM
Post #6 of 12
(1423 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 30, 2003
Posts: 123
|
We just got back from Vietnam a few weeks ago, but unfortunately never got the opportunity to get to Halong Bay...spent most of our time in the south. So sorry, not much help for the Bay, but regardless of the amount of climbing you actually get to do, I'm sure you will have a blast. The country is beautiful, people very friendly, and most things are very inexpensive. But it's definitely NOT like the US. Be prepared for an adventure :D
|
|
|
|
|
fourfa
Aug 25, 2006, 9:12 PM
Post #7 of 12
(1423 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2005
Posts: 39
|
One thing I was told when I was there (2 years ago) is that the areas off the tourist boat routes can be dangerous - robbery, kidnapping, and pirates (no joke). There is zero government presence away from the tourist routes, as it's just a vast maze out there. I was warned to get reliable personal recommendations for any private tours as some might be setups.
I'm not sure how seriously to take this. This isn't a general scaredy-cat "the third world is dangerous" post, this was a specific warning targeted at world-wise backpackers. I think it's also mentioned in Lonely Planet etc. I think there was a mention in Outside or NG:Adventure (maybe Pelton's column) last year too. Vietnam is very safe on the whole, outside of specific parts of Saigon. It's a little more high pressure (touts, drivers etc) than the neighboring countries, but no ill-will.
I also have the impression that you'll be doing a lot of gardening too. Wish I had more concrete info! Good luck!
|
|
|
|
|
fearofheights
Aug 25, 2006, 10:40 PM
Post #8 of 12
(1423 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 19, 2006
Posts: 37
|
I was there 3 years ago and didn't climb, but I have to say, it's one of the most beautiful places I have ever been! If you have time, it's worth it to take one of those overnight boat trips out into the bay, visit a couple islands and caves, no pirates that I saw. And all the seafood you can eat! If you're lucky, it will be a little misty- the limestone formations poke up out of the water in the most eerie way. Have a great trip!
-Jovie
|
|
|
|
|
phillygoat
Aug 26, 2006, 6:49 PM
Post #9 of 12
(1423 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 22, 2004
Posts: 428
|
bump
|
|
|
|
|
rickeden
Aug 29, 2006, 6:17 AM
Post #10 of 12
(1423 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2005
Posts: 72
|
Try www.vietclimb.com Some of its French!!
|
|
|
|
|
guiviet
Sep 26, 2006, 9:21 AM
Post #11 of 12
(1423 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 20, 2006
Posts: 16
|
In reply to: Hi Phillip, I am currently staying in Hanoi and I have been climbing in the north for a couple of years. So, I went to Halong many many times and i will continue to go to climb there as soon as I have no problem to climb there. I know that the information is difficult to gather, that's why Jean, my self and other friends have tried to put the information we have on Halong bay in a website www.vietclimb.com If you are still in Vietnam, please feel free to contact me. That will be a pleasure to tell you about the climbs there and we can even go climbing together if you like to. My phone number: 0912104767 Guillaume |
|
|
|
|
guiviet
Sep 26, 2006, 9:32 AM
Post #12 of 12
(1423 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 20, 2006
Posts: 16
|
To tell you a bit more, our website is mainly in french and Vietnamese, but we are working on the english version in order to gather the information you need.
Guillaume
guillaume_da@netcourrier.com
|
|
|
|
|
|
