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Novice Friendly areas in NC
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Partner bri1682


Aug 27, 2006, 11:18 PM
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Novice Friendly areas in NC
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What are some novice friendly spots to climb in NC? Both is regards to easyness of climbs and friendliness of other climbers. From looking at posts on RC.com, it appears that some climbers are very anti-newbie, but everyone is just starting out at some ppoint.


glyrocks


Aug 27, 2006, 11:48 PM
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What region are you in? How noob are we talking? Do you lead geared routes? bolted? Boulder? Do you know how to set up a top-rope? Do you care if you die trying? Places like Rumbling Bald outside Asheville or Looking Glass outside Brevard are popular enough that there should be at least one friendly local, but the easy stuff at both places get hot as hell in the summer.

Pilot Mtn. outside King (near Winston-Salem) loves noobs. Plenty of easy/moderate single pitch to toprope or lead. Maybe Crowders near Charlotte, but that place is a giant pile of dump. I can't really think of anything in the west though. Ship Rock has plenty of moderates, but some are long, not always direct, and not conistently busy- but this time of the year there'll no doubt be plenty of people around.

More details would definitely help get some better answers.


csproul


Aug 28, 2006, 12:14 AM
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Maybe Crowders near Charlotte, but that place is a giant pile of dump.

Comments like that will win you lots of friends from the Charlotte area :)


Partner bri1682


Aug 28, 2006, 1:03 AM
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mainly looking for topproping right now. I can't lead, and done have a regular partner that does.


goober


Aug 28, 2006, 2:21 AM
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From Chapel Hill your best bet would be Pilot if you don't lead. The rock varies from okay quality rock, to what is essentially dirt, but it is climbing...

If you can somehow find someone to lead, or you can get a rack of basic gear, go to Moores. All things considered, it's probably the best place in NC to learn to climb. You can, however, top rope the boulders just below the Sentinal Buttress area. Moores is a great place to meet potential climbing partners, just show up around the Sentinal Buttress area on any good weather weekend and you'll have no problem.
Both of these crags are very close together, which makes changing your destination rather easy.


thorne
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Aug 28, 2006, 1:19 PM
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Maybe Crowders near Charlotte, but that place is a giant pile of dump.

Comments like that will win you lots of friends from the Charlotte area :)

It tends to be the relative noobs that like to slag on Crowders. I wonder how many times glyrocks has actually climbed there.

Bril,
Crowders is an excellent place to learn outdoor climbing. There are tons of moderate climbs you can toprope. Many of the popular routes have fixed anchors that are easy to setup from above. Also, there's a nice selection of moderate sport routes - starting around 5.7, with a bunch of 5.10s. I wouldn't recommend it for leading trad.

Unfortunately, it's about three hours from Raleigh. It's definitely not a destination crag, but if you're in the area, check it out.

Drop me a PM if you want details.

For learning trad on easy terrain, I'd recommend Moores Wall or Table Rock/Linville Gorge.


dynamicpanda


Aug 28, 2006, 2:17 PM
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If you want to learn to lead, Table Rock, NC is a great spot to learn. There are lots of well bolted 5.5/5.6 multi pitch routes that are really user friendly. I dont know of many topropes in the area, but its a really nice rock. If you want more info just pm me.


cruxy


Aug 28, 2006, 3:06 PM
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Bri, the best place to start outdoors would be Pilot. It is an hour and foty-five minutes from Raleigh. Does have bolted anchors for TR. Crowders is also good place for easy stuff, but if I was going to drive three hours I would head to ShipRock on the Parkway. Be forewarned, Pilot is really hot this time of year and there are a lot of BoyScouts that learn out there which makes it a bit crowded. Stone Mountain is not a place I would recommend right off the bat. It is friction climbing (a bit different then what you learn in the gym) and has a tendency to grip the noob.

I also live in Raleigh and am willing to take you out some time. Hit me up with a PM and we will see what we can do.


Partner bri1682


Aug 28, 2006, 3:17 PM
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Thanks guys. All of you have been really helpful.


glyrocks


Aug 28, 2006, 4:19 PM
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Maybe Crowders near Charlotte, but that place is a giant pile of dump.

Comments like that will win you lots of friends from the Charlotte area :)

It tends to be the relative noobs that like to slag on Crowders. I wonder how many times glyrocks has actually climbed there.

Wonk, wonk, wonk... Good to hear from you Thorne. If you want to defend Crowders then by all means defend Crowders, but, please, save some personal attacks for later, more relevent discussions. 8^)


csproul- Heh, no worries, I've been to Charlotte too. :wink:


joshy8200


Aug 28, 2006, 4:43 PM
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Maybe Crowders near Charlotte, but that place is a giant pile of dump.

Don't listen to this crap. As has been said Crowders has plenty to offer the beginner (and even more to offer the more advanced climbers). Crowders although quite hot in the summer has some areas that are shady all day. If you have a guidebook, the Backside of Middle Finger has routes that can be top-roped that are in the shade. The front side of Middle Finger also has a very fun top-rope called the 'The Balcony' (you have to belay from the top though it's too long to sling-shot belay). It's shady in the morning. David's Castle and Practice Wall also get shady mid-afternoonish.

Hidden Wall, Red Wall, and David's Castle Wall also have some of the best 5.11 and up sport routes in the state. Check the pictures.

Crowders ain't the highest rock quality in the land...but what the heck. Loose rock on MOST of the routes is quite uncommon because the area sees so much use.


Partner bri1682


Sep 1, 2006, 12:02 AM
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Pilot Mt. isnt in my Selected climbs in North Carolina book, can anyone suggest someplace other than this site where I can get info?


goober


Sep 1, 2006, 12:54 AM
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The Climbers Guide to North Carolina by Thomas Kelly, 3rd edition.


jamatt


Sep 1, 2006, 1:08 AM
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The chimneys on the south side of the table rock parking lot have multiple top rope sites. you'll need a rope, some sort of anchor device and some creativity/judgement in their usage, but it's a great area.


pornstarr


Sep 4, 2006, 1:55 AM
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Pilot Mt. isnt in my Selected climbs in North Carolina book, can anyone suggest someplace other than this site where I can get info?


www.carolinaclimbers.org

i think someone is putting together a mini guide for pilot....have a look.


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