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redlegrangerone
Jun 19, 2006, 12:24 PM
Post #26 of 37
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Registered: Dec 21, 2005
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No problem. Everyone knows Gila Monsters only climb 5.4. They are much better for carrying the ham sammiches.
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sonknee
Jul 14, 2006, 4:47 AM
Post #27 of 37
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Registered: Jul 12, 2006
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I would carry a cheap carabiner with me and switch out the draw for the biner and be lowered down on the biner and so you would leave behind a biner instead of a draw.
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justthemaid
Jul 14, 2006, 5:10 AM
Post #28 of 37
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Registered: Sep 11, 2004
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ditto that^^^
Or if you forget a bail biner just steal one off a draw.
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deadhorse
Aug 31, 2006, 12:17 AM
Post #29 of 37
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Registered: Jun 26, 2006
Posts: 241
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isn't it sort of an option to use the bolt as a step also? As a bail tactic- is this kosher?
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david_smithrock
Aug 31, 2006, 7:04 PM
Post #30 of 37
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Registered: Jul 12, 2006
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Just leave a bail biner (or two) and don't worry about rope tricks. As you get better, you will pick up loads of bail biners from other climbers. Think of the leaver biner as an investment..... you get better when you push yourself. You may lose a few biners, but over time you accumulate a whole bunch :D
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whitribj
Sep 1, 2006, 2:01 PM
Post #31 of 37
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Registered: Jun 16, 2006
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: If all else fails, TR/clean to your highest draw and just leave one. It sucks, but at least you minimize your loss Now, this is the kind of mis-information I like! Please do this particularly at my crags. When in doubt, leave a back-up draw, too. Jay Redundancy requires you leave all pro. Draws are cheap.
By having a bail biner at your highest reached bolt and the bolt below it you have created redundancy for a third of the cost.
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jt512
Sep 1, 2006, 4:51 PM
Post #32 of 37
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: If all else fails, TR/clean to your highest draw and just leave one. It sucks, but at least you minimize your loss Now, this is the kind of mis-information I like! Please do this particularly at my crags. When in doubt, leave a back-up draw, too. Jay Redundancy requires you leave all pro. Draws are cheap. By having a bail biner at your highest reached bolt and the bolt below it you have created redundancy for a third of the cost.
And today's "huh?" award goes to whitribj.
Jay
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whitribj
Sep 1, 2006, 5:02 PM
Post #33 of 37
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Registered: Jun 16, 2006
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First place a bail biner on the bolt you got to. Then when you lower down to the next bolt below. Then if the biner blows on the top bolt you have another to catch you. It's more booty, but redundant.
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cjsimpso
Sep 1, 2006, 6:57 PM
Post #34 of 37
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Registered: Jun 5, 2006
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In reply to: First place a bail biner on the bolt you got to. Then when you lower down to the next bolt below. Then if the biner blows on the top bolt you have another to catch you. It's more booty, but redundant.
Everyone understood what you meant, but no one understood why you took Jay and Neven seriously.
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jt512
Sep 1, 2006, 7:16 PM
Post #35 of 37
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In reply to: First place a bail biner on the bolt you got to. Then when you lower down to the next bolt below. Then if the biner blows on the top bolt you have another to catch you. It's more booty, but redundant.
That part I got; the !/3 the cost part, I didn't.
Jay
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maestro8
Sep 1, 2006, 10:31 PM
Post #36 of 37
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Registered: Jul 25, 2006
Posts: 30
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The "bolt + next bolt down" lower-off technique is redundant, but it isn't equalized. Not that it always matters... but if you're forced to lower off a manky bolt, another technique you can use involves a second rope (from Climbing magazine):
While on lead belay, put a leaver 'biner on the top bolt and thread the second rope through it to set up a rappel. Rappel down the second rope while down-cleaning... staying on belay. If the top bolt fails, you'll just whip down onto the next draw.
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jcasper
Sep 2, 2006, 2:38 AM
Post #37 of 37
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Registered: May 23, 2005
Posts: 108
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In reply to: While on lead belay, put a leaver 'biner on the top bolt and thread the second rope through it to set up a rappel. Rappel down the second rope while down-cleaning... staying on belay. If the top bolt fails, you'll just whip down onto the next draw. |
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