|
pitonboy
Sep 2, 2006, 9:16 PM
Post #1 of 7
(3128 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 28, 2006
Posts: 25
|
Does anyone use or know someone who does use a sheet bend or double sheet bend (backed up with a double fisherman's to join two ropes? It seems to hold well and untie relatively easily after a rappel. I use the EDK but it always makes me uneasy...
|
|
|
|
|
ridgeclimber
Sep 2, 2006, 9:44 PM
Post #2 of 7
(3128 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 16, 2005
Posts: 163
|
Try a square grapevine. I don't know anyone who uses a sheet bend.
|
|
|
|
|
gunkiemike
Sep 2, 2006, 10:28 PM
Post #3 of 7
(3128 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266
|
"Holding well" and "untying easily" are reasons #2 and 3 for selecting a knot to join rap ropes. Unless you never pull over an edge of any sort.
Stick with the EDK.
|
|
|
|
|
rgold
Sep 2, 2006, 11:37 PM
Post #4 of 7
(3128 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 1804
|
There was a pretty long period during which the standard rappel knot was a square knot backed up with double fisherman's. I always used a double sheet bend instead of the square knot, particularly when the two ropes were of significantly different diameters. As far as finishing, I think the best method is to use the Yosemite finish (a sheet bend has the same structure as a bowline) and then add double fisherman's knot back-ups.
I'd say that if the knot is going to be subjected to high and repeated loads, such as in a rescue situation, that this "tucked" double sheet bend is an appropriate alternative to the EDK. It is bulky and won't roll over edges the way an EDK does, and so is less preferable for ordinary single-person rappels.
A less bulky, but somewhat harder to untie alternative is the flemish bend. It sticks on edges too, so the EDK seems to be the best choice for ordinary rappelling.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Sep 3, 2006, 12:10 AM
Post #5 of 7
(3128 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
I thought about this a bit, but it get's cought on edge easily, is bulky, easy to mess up, and has no advantage over a backed up EDK.
Emphasis on backed up.
-Magnus
|
|
|
|
|
david_smithrock
Sep 3, 2006, 1:00 AM
Post #6 of 7
(3128 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 12, 2006
Posts: 361
|
Death knots are the way to go. (European Death Knots, that is :wink: )
|
|
|
|
|
keithlester
Deleted
Sep 4, 2006, 4:24 PM
Post #7 of 7
(3128 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
In reply to: Does anyone use or know someone who does use a sheet bend or double sheet bend (backed up with a double fisherman's to join two ropes? It seems to hold well and untie relatively easily after a rappel. I use the EDK but it always makes me uneasy...
I use a double sheet bend, backed up with a fishermans. It's very secure and also easy to undo. I feel I may be in the minority however, as all my climbing buddies prefer the EDK
|
|
|
|
|
|
