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AAAHHH I'm in Harness Hell
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nickrp


Sep 4, 2006, 8:12 AM
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AAAHHH I'm in Harness Hell
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OK i did a search for this, but it didn't help seeing that there are a million different harnesses. OK well I'm new to climbing, and for now i plan on just gym climbing, until i can get a little better. As of now i have just rented gym harnesses, and well how can i describe them? Oh i got it "CRAP!" they are VERY uncomfortable! I'm looking for a light weight, COMFORTABLE harness. i do plan to eventually go outdoors, but till then just the gym for me. so what would you all recommend? currently i was looking at the Calidris, what do you think?


overlord


Sep 4, 2006, 8:48 AM
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petzl is always a good choice. i really like their buckle system.

but i reccomend that you go to a good climbing store and try on as much harnesses as possible. get the one that is the most comfortable (chances are its going to be calidris). oh, by trying on i mean putting it on and then hangin on it for some time. the store should have a sling or somesuch for you to hang on. if it doesnt have it, you cant really try the harness; go to another store that does.


notch


Sep 4, 2006, 12:48 PM
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^^^ditto^^^


timm


Sep 4, 2006, 1:44 PM
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Comfort is a personal thing.

Go to a climbing shop and try on every harness you are interested in. A good shop will have a setup where you can hang in the harness. That's the best way to determine comfort.


Partner tgreene


Sep 4, 2006, 1:53 PM
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Re: AAAHHH I'm in Harness Hell [In reply to]
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Petzl and BD both make great gym harnesses. If you don't intend to do much more than pull down in a gym, then most any harness out there will suffice, and it's just a matter of finding one that suits your needs.

Some people prefer a single buckle system, while others (myself included) prefer a double buckle to help with adjusting and proper centering. The inexpensive BD Speed Harnesses use a double system that is already pre-fastened, so you simply pull it on and tighten it down... This is a well designed system that allows for getting into and out of your harness very quickly.

If however you intend to get outside anytime soon, you may want to consider the extra features that are often built into the heavier-duty rigs that provide all day comfort. I personally use a Misty Mountain Cadillac for just this very reason.


overlord


Sep 4, 2006, 1:57 PM
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In reply to:
Some people prefer a single buckle system, while others (myself included) prefer a double buckle to help with adjusting and proper centering.

If however you intend to get outside anytime soon, you may want to consider the extra features that are often built into the heavier-duty rigs that provide all day comfort. I personally use a Misty Mountain Cadillac for just this very reason.

ditto on both counts. i also prefer the double buckle systems.

as for the comfort, i recently loaned my friend my harness when we were out cragging (he just had to jump on a route i was just climbing, we were in a hurry and he couldnt double back hes waist belt because the ends of the sling were frayes) and he was blown away by the comfort. in case youre wondering, he has a cheaper simple harness (i think its camp, but im not sure) and i have the petzl gourou (no longer in production; grandfather of calidris).


Partner fire_eyes


Sep 4, 2006, 2:50 PM
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I totally recommend the Misty Mountain Cadillac. I looooove mine. Super comfortable, lotsa gear loops, double buckle. It fits like a glove, and being designed for big-walls, I can hang-dog in it aaaaalllllll day :D

It is well worth the $$.


andypro


Sep 4, 2006, 3:12 PM
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I've always been a big fan of BD harnesses. You really cant go wrong with any of them (even the BOD isn't too bad compared to a gym rental!). That said, I've recently had a shot at trying a Matrix from wild country, and I think I'm a convert. I'm probably going to get the Synchro instead of another BD harness this winter.

The WC's have the double buckles, and are very nice and comfy. Only problem is that you cant undo the waist loop (that I know of anyways). I think it works the same way as the new BD harnesses (it seems they're all going that way anymore :evil: ).


dark_zer0


Sep 4, 2006, 3:14 PM
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G'day Mate

In my opinion, I do not think the 1 loop(or SpeedBuckle) is safe. It could easily break if something goes wrong and there is nothing backing it up. I would go for the 2 way or 3 way loop system. I would recommend the 50 dollar(REI) Momentum AL Harness found here:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/gear/product.php?p=563&list=1

http://www.bdel.com/gear/momentum_al.php

Its a really good beginner harness and good for the gym.Also its affordable. However people say it might get uncomfortable on big long climbs but you said your sticking to gym right now, right? Also its cool that it has adustable leg loops(AL) so you can have a right fit.

Also, I would say it is important that you get a safe one and the one that you feel comfortable with. This question is sort of like "What is the best shoe" question. We will give you advice but the only answer is to choose the best one that fits with you and you like.

Cheers,
Zer0


musicman


Sep 4, 2006, 5:03 PM
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looks like youv'e already got some great advice, but one thing i'd like to add.
most companies will have beginner or entry-level harnesses. i wouldn't go with them. you've been climbing in the gym quite a bit and from the sound of it you're really ready to get into climbing. so, my advice is that you don't worry about price with a harness. try on a billion different harnesses, and whichever one is most comfortable, has the features you like most, all of that, you buy it. if you don't have enough, wait a couple weeks or whatever and come back with that extra 25 dollars. it'll be worth it. you wear your harness each and every time you climb (unless you boulder...lame) so it might as well be the most comfortable one you can find. no harness is going to be exponentially expensive compared to others. just go with what works. the caldiris is a more expensive one, if that's what you want, then get it. the extra dollars are well worth something you wear every time you climb. i'm rambling and repeating at this point... so.... happy climbing!


Partner tgreene


Sep 4, 2006, 5:28 PM
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In reply to:
no harness is going to be exponentially expensive compared to others.
You don't "drive" a Cadillac, do you..? :lol:

While they are in fact crazy expensive at +/- $100, it will likely be the last harness you'll ever need to purchase, and will certainly be among the most comfortable that you could ever own. The only thing missing is an inflatable lumbar support, but then again we haven't seen the 2007 product lineup yet either... :lol:


talnlnky


Sep 4, 2006, 5:57 PM
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[quote="tgreene"]
In reply to:
While they are in fact crazy expensive at +/- $100, it will likely be the last harness you'll ever need to purchase,

unless of course this person sticks with climbing... and is forced to retire the harness 3-5years down the road. Last time i checked nobody has made an indestructable/non-wearing harness


jensenjp


Sep 6, 2006, 12:02 PM
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When I got mine - a petzl at ems - I asked to try them on and to try hanging in them. the guy said No problem. EMS hangs kayaks from I beams in the ceiling, so he wheeled over the ladder and threw a rope over the I beam and let me use a ATC.
It was a good way to get the right harnes...there is a big difference in feel putting a harness on and actually putting weight on to the harness.


boredwolf


Sep 6, 2006, 1:16 PM
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Personally, I'd stay away from the speed-buckle system... I had a friend catch his on the rope while we were rapping off a climb, and he would've been flying if he'd flipped over during the descent.
Get something with decent padding, adjustable leg loops, and a double-back buckle on the waist. I've got a Momentum AL from BD. It isn't amazing or anything, but it's a whole helluva lot better than some Singing Rock $30 job. Once you do some more climbing, you can upgrade and just wear the old one on sport climbs or something like that. If you're in the market strictly for comfort, I'd recommend an alpine harness... they've got great padding.


dark_zer0


Sep 6, 2006, 1:20 PM
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In reply to:
Personally, I'd stay away from the speed-buckle system... I had a friend catch his on the rope while we were rapping off a climb, and he would've been flying if he'd flipped over during the descent.


cruxy


Sep 6, 2006, 1:48 PM
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Best thing to do is to find an outdoor store that will let you hang in the harness for a while. This will give you a genuine feel of the harness. I am personally a big fan of petzel and misty mountain.


rome2282


Sep 6, 2006, 1:49 PM
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As a beginner you should look at one of the kits that BD and I believe Petzl sells. It was by far the least expensive way to get everything I needed and the BD harness isn't just a beginners’ harness. Also the advice about making sure your hang from the harness helps! It really helps make sure you find the right size etc... Just take your time.


fmd


Sep 6, 2006, 2:17 PM
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9/16" webbing at about 20 feet long....diaper it around ya and save your monies for something that really matters, like life insurance.......


Partner bri1682


Sep 6, 2006, 2:47 PM
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Try on harnesses in the store and see which one you like. I tried on several before I finally settled on the Petzl Adjama. I also used the cheapest misty mountain harness you can get for awhile, needless to say most entry level harnesses suck.


fishkid_91


Sep 7, 2006, 3:09 AM
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I bought a Black Diamond Chaos off of ebay very cheap and i am very pleased. It was affordable, light and comfortable


dark_zer0


Sep 7, 2006, 3:39 AM
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I bought a Black Diamond Chaos off of ebay very cheap and i am very pleased. It was affordable, light and comfortable

Your sort of scaring me here, was it a brand spanking new one or a used one.. :shock:


fishkid_91


Sep 7, 2006, 12:18 PM
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Why is that scaring you??? it was new


svilnit


Sep 7, 2006, 12:30 PM
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In reply to:
Why is that scaring you??? it was new

Ebay + Climbing Gear (usually) = Bad

Goes back to the "don't buy climbing gear unless you know its history"


fredo


Sep 7, 2006, 2:29 PM
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Try it on, hang in it etc... That aside, I would consider that what you need for gym climbing is far less than you'll need for outdoors. I use and love the MM caillac, but is overkill for the gym. Chances are, that once you get outside and start doing more than just TR you'll look into a harness upgrade. That should be based on the type of climbing you want to do, i.e. sport v. trad. I would get a harness that is comfortable to hang in, is less that $70, and has adjustable leg loops and can rack a bunch of draws as you'll likely start sport climbing before lumping gear. One buckle or two (i love two) you really won't appreciate until you climb some more. The petzel type quick buckles or standard, the quicks are nice, but don't get complacent with them. The corax is nice, BD momentums are a good intro harness. Good luck, be safe

foimt


deltav


Sep 7, 2006, 2:48 PM
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Misty Mountain all the way.

And stay away from single pass buckles, the aren't worth a crap

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