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beyond_gravity
Sep 5, 2002, 10:16 PM
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I heard some guys talking about shooting in low light without a flash...
They said that they use 100 speed film, but set there camera at 400 speed so they can shoot high-quality low-light shots.
Has anyone heard/done this? Does it really work?
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rwaltermyer
Sep 5, 2002, 10:36 PM
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Using a film like 100 and telling the camera its 400 is called PUSHING you film.
A couple things: one you must process your film then at 400...thats no problem...you just got to tell the lab to "push it to 400"
However, this sounds wonderful put pushing film has its draw backs: the contrast of the pictures will become more drastic....for example, a shadow accross the climbers face become REAL dark, the background light throught the trees is OVERLY BRIGHT.
The middle is alright, but it still isnt the best way to get the PROPER exposure. However, if you're on a road trip with only 100 spd film and its low light, which means NOTHING is bright...(which is different that a shadow over the climber) pushing you film to get some shots would be better, in my opinion, than not taking any at all.
Also, if you push your film it becomes grainer, which effects quality.
I would recommend pushed up one stop, which means 100 to 200; 200 up to 400. If you really get into a bind you can go two stops (100 to 400) but i'd try 200 first. Keep in mind though that you need to shot the ENTIRE roll at the same ISO film speed or your developing wont work out right.
In worst case scenerios I've pushed 400 spd T-max Professional film to 1600. My results were livable but not perfect. but you do what you gotta do.
Good luck and God Bless
randy
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pushfurther
Sep 5, 2002, 11:04 PM
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where's the q-votes when you need them?
good answer rwalter..
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farmerc
Sep 5, 2002, 11:31 PM
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Randy~
great answer, but you mean ASA film speed, not ISO, right? I'm newer to photography, so maybe I missed something, or perhaps you confused the ISO 9000 certification that gear manufacturer's get with ASA film speed.
~Chris
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beyond_gravity
Sep 6, 2002, 12:13 AM
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Thanks for the answer dude!
i'm learning develop B&W, i've been shooting with 400 and when I make them really big the quality turns kind of crappy.
Thanks again,
Jeremy
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rwaltermyer
Sep 6, 2002, 12:28 AM
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ASA- American standard association
ISO- Internation Standard Association
both measure films sensitivity the same way
just some FYI
good luck
randy
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pushfurther
Sep 6, 2002, 12:53 AM
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b_g, you can't go very big with 35mm film, regardless of speed. i think once you get bigger than 8x10 the quality starts to suck. i may be wrong though.
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peanutbutterandjelly
Sep 6, 2002, 12:57 AM
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Remember to tell your developer that you pushed or pulled your film or your film will turn out under or over exposed. For 400 TMAX (TMY) you can push it to 3200 with results that are not bad. Remember if you develpoe your own film to adjust your developing time. With TMY pushed to 800 you can not tell unless you enlarge 8x10 or larger, usually.
Todd
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topher
Sep 6, 2002, 1:00 AM
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this is where having your own dark room is good. you can just burn more if you where shooting in low light.
as for blowing 400iso (iso is the new way it was asa but they changed it) up its hard i would recomend using 100 or 200 iso, it has smaller gains so you can make biger prints, but you need more light.
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marcsv
Sep 6, 2002, 1:19 AM
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i only push my film when i'm using B&W its much more dramatic.
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tim
Sep 6, 2002, 2:12 AM
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Want fast? Shoot TMZ. End of story. Can be pushed to 6400 without complete breakdown.
Fast color? NHGII or NPZ. Again, that's all. Slide film does not push well to 800+.
Shoot a *TON* and need quick turnover? Digital. Find me a PJ who isn't digital.
Want the highest quality possible for prints? Shoot medium or large format on fine-grained film (eg. Tmax 400CN, Velvia, or Provia) and use a tripod. Hell, use a tripod whenever you can *anyways* -- your photos will improve.
Normally I shoot Provia 100F outdoors, 400F or NHGII indoors, and TMZ for low light. If I intend to shoot B&W with no grain at all, I load up some T400CN. Eventually I will buy a nice digital camera, when someone comes out with a body that accepts my collection of Nikon lenses and doesn't turn my wides into normals (barf). A straw poll of pro climbing photographers indicates I'm not alone...
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saltspringer
Sep 6, 2002, 6:22 AM
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ISO doesn't stand for International Standards Organization it's actually a Greek derivative that means "equal" as in isometric exercises. It was developed for international standardizations quite some time ago for a broad range of applications including film. Just thought you might like to know
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rwaltermyer
Sep 6, 2002, 9:43 PM
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well there you have it....lots of advise...hope it all helped. photography is such a wonderful art once you understand it all...its alot, but keep shoting, DONT USE PRIORITY MODE, and come to love and understand the art.
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beyond_gravity
Sep 7, 2002, 3:42 PM
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Thanks!
Just one more question...
I'm getting into developing B&W and got 4 rolls of T-max 400. Next time would it be better to get 100 and push it to 400 if i'm shooting in low light?
also: Why does b&w film cost more then colour? My dad said b&w used to be dirt cheap!
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rwaltermyer
Sep 8, 2002, 12:04 AM
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Ummm...No, I would suggest sticking with T-max 400. If you're in lowlight, 400 might not be enough, depending on your lens, therefore, i'd stick with the 400 and even consider pushing that to 800. I almost always push T-max to 800, because if you develop it yourself, you should know that the developing times are next to identical.
As for prices, most consumers dont like B&W, they want their color for their thanksgiving and christmas gatherings....so its basic economics, big demand for color, cheaper prices ***also cheaper quality***
T-max, compared to tri-x, is a great buy. Also, I'd recommend buying T-max chemicals as well for best results.
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