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Not much leg endurance standing in etriers...
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jeffo


Sep 5, 2006, 5:32 AM
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Not much leg endurance standing in etriers...
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Hey yall,

Did some more mock solo aiding this weekend. I have to admit, I am a serious wuss when it comes to standing in my etriers. After only a few minutes it begins to hurt...oh the pain cried the little girl with skinned knees...anway...

For those who have spent hours in the saddle, whats the deal? Will I develop such muscles for standing in aiders, i.e, will my feet toughen up, after continued practice or do I need to investigate new shoes (I am using jogging shoes like asics). Thoughts?

Anyone...anyone...bueller...bueller?

Thanks,

J


tallnik


Sep 5, 2006, 5:44 AM
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Re: Not much leg endurance standing in etriers... [In reply to]
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I would suggest getting stiffer soled shoes if you're having a problem. I have the La Sportiva B5 shoes, which are great for stepping out of the aiders and doing the occasional free move(s). Wearing them, I have not had any complaints about my feet feeling sore.

Cheers,
Nik


Partner ewtotel


Sep 5, 2006, 7:57 AM
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Re: Not much leg endurance standing in etriers... [In reply to]
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In reply to:
(I am using jogging shoes like asics).

Oh yeah, I'd loose the soft soled shoes... it's been years since I did any time in etriers but I almost always wore a hiking boot, particularly if I knew I was doing an all aid climb... otherwise the arches of my feet would get trashed.

Good luck!


david_smithrock


Sep 6, 2006, 10:21 PM
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Re: Not much leg endurance standing in etriers... [In reply to]
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Stiff shoes or boots are good. But even with softer shoes, you can help the pain by putting your weight more in the balls of your feet and dropping your heels, with your toes pasted against the wall. And placing weight on your heels when you can helps. Mix it up a bit as to what part of your foot you stand on. Especially with soft shoes, if you stand on your arches all day, it's not too comfy.

Also, don't forget about your fifi. Let it take a good portion of your weight. It also allows you to get into comfortable balanced positions (such as the classic heel behind the butt, one leg pasting the wall stance) that will let your feet see some change of position, which feels good.

If your leg muscles are hurting, it's probably a balance issue. Aid climbing can be tense, and new aid climbers tend to be wary of commiting all their weight to their harness (particularly the fifi) and spend time trying to use their muscles to balance in aiders. Relax as much as possible; when you're tense in aiders you sometimes have to consciously tell yourself to relax your muscles, especially if you think your gear could pop at any time. With practice it'll get more fluid.

Hope that helps.


Partner euroford


Sep 7, 2006, 8:47 AM
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Re: Not much leg endurance standing in etriers... [In reply to]
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with a good setup and time in the saddle you'll get very comfortable. shoes make a huge diffrence, i use the montrail d7's which have a steel plate in the arch just for this reason. your aiders can also make a huge diffrence, even in tennies my yates ladders are pretty comfortable. of course the harness is important as well, i've gotten bruises while using my petzl harness, but can hang in my yates bigwall all day without issues.

asside from that, its time in the saddle for physical and mental training. over time you will learn where your best comfort zones are, and how your body should be positioned for diffrent terrain for diffrent reach requirments.

its also a mental thing. early on, if your on a hook your whole body is going to be tensed up, your going to move slowly and carefully with every thought driven to not shifting and getting to that next big cam. these days, i can get comfortable and leaf through my rack.

don;t get too comfy though, then your just wasting time.


potreroed


Sep 27, 2006, 12:54 PM
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Re: Not much leg endurance standing in etriers... [In reply to]
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An adjustable fifi hook will help a great deal. That and more experience.


the_dude


Sep 27, 2006, 11:55 PM
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Re: Not much leg endurance standing in etriers... [In reply to]
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You will develop some muscle, just like anything else. Comfort wise, get knee pads and some good approach shoes. On the other hand though comfort can equal slow. Get used to climbing with one aider per piece right off the bat. less time to hang out this way. get up high with one foot in an aider, balance with the other foot and start looking for your next move. Think of it is similar to crack climbing, it's gonna hurt sometimes, but speed gets you through it faster. I think that's the main thing I see new aid climbers doing... getting on these straight forward A1 cracks and moving these giant nests of aiders hooked to daisies from peice to peice and placing gear in the third step.
So bottom line is this...
-Knee pads
-Good approach shoes
-one aider at a time
-pain is good=speed
-get in your second step to work

-oh yeah, drink beer and have a blast.


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