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paolo75


Sep 7, 2006, 4:18 AM
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Still alive...

Last Sunday, Dolomites, Torre Firenze NW Arete 600m IV. Probably the must fun climb I've ever done. Awesome rock, incredibly solid, easy, sometimes unneccessary to protect whole pitches, it was JUST pleasant:


Ciao ciao,
h.

:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:
:( :( :( :( :( :( :(


Partner heiko


Sep 7, 2006, 4:59 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Still alive...

Last Sunday, Dolomites, Torre Firenze NW Arete 600m IV. Probably the must fun climb I've ever done. Awesome rock, incredibly solid, easy, sometimes unneccessary to protect whole pitches, it was JUST pleasant:


Ciao ciao,
h.

:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:
:( :( :( :( :( :( :(

don't cry for me pa-o-lino...


uasunflower


Sep 7, 2006, 5:16 AM
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adnix - interesting. How long are you going to patagonia for? Do you have the Fitz roy route topo? i've heard like it's 6b or smth in difficulty? how long?

taz - eiger might wait - i keep finding/loosing partners for it lately - but eiger will wait. Maybe Grand Cap' first...but the weather is with us lately, so that's what counts!


paolo75


Sep 7, 2006, 5:24 AM
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taz - eiger might wait - i keep finding/loosing partners for it lately - but eiger will wait. Maybe Grand Cap' first...but the weather is with us lately, so that's what counts!

not for long... :twisted: :wink:


Partner heiko


Sep 7, 2006, 5:51 AM
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taz - eiger might wait - i keep finding/loosing partners for it lately - but eiger will wait. Maybe Grand Cap' first...but the weather is with us lately, so that's what counts!

Do you learn anything from that fact or is it that all the others are driving on the wrong side...


bellaitalia


Sep 7, 2006, 8:57 AM
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'only' 5c+?? for that?? is it a 'real' 5c+ or an 'old school' 5c+? whats the pro like? WHERE IS IT??? im drooling all over the keyboard right now.


It's in Switzerland, in the mountains north of Val di Mello. The region is called Albigna. The pitch is a fair 5c+ although it's a bit long bolted. Plus the exposure makes the whole experience much more intense.

Of course, either you have to climb one of the awesome, but long routes up the mountain to get there. We did one called Mosaico which was fantastic(slab, crack, everything!). Or you can hike up to the base of the climb, but there's a fair bit of scrambling and some bits of easy grade IIIish climbing, which we did unroped.


adnix


Sep 7, 2006, 12:05 PM
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How long are you going to patagonia for? Do you have the Fitz roy route topo? i've heard like it's 6b or smth in difficulty? how long?
The left variation on this picture:
http://www.students.tut.fi/.../francoargentine.jpg

First pitch is 6c or A1 and after that it's 6a or easier. It should be something like 650m + 300m of easy terrain + approach. If the weather isn't too stable we'll probably spend some time digging snow cave on the saddle below the route. With cave you don't need that much good weather. 10-12 hours should be enough.

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taz - eiger might wait - i keep finding/loosing partners for it lately - but eiger will wait. Maybe Grand Cap' first...but the weather is with us lately, so that's what counts!
I've scheduled Eiger for easter holidays. There should be most ice then if the weather is like it's usually.

We were looking for Walker Spur this summer but then it started snowing heavily. After that we decided for the Jorasses traverse but we made judgement error and had one guy with us who wasn't too fast nor too comfortable with exposed terrain. I was quite angry at him since we decided it would have been a bad idea to continue further from Calotte du Rochefort.

But later I was happy I got to see the descend route. And I have loads of new world class photos.

Next it was storming for a while and we thought Aiguilles Traverse would be something less committing and easy to escape in these near winter conditions. We were swimming new trail in the snow, launched some cornice with a slab and took a look at the weather forecast with my gprs phone near the top of Plan. It said something about strong foehn gusts & possible thunder. I was all for continuing but my friend had second thoughts about the weather so we turned back.

Patagonia is at least one month trip. February should have best weather for rock climbing but it's not written in stone. I have a friend who was there all January and he got only one pitch of climbing done.


uasunflower


Sep 11, 2006, 1:45 AM
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adnix, that's not bad at all, that fitz roy topo! good luck and share when it all happens! One more climb in my list :P

yeah, cham' weather in august was just awful - we tried a route on Aig. du Moine last w-end (Miss Tique) and it was still running with waterfalls from all the snow - even the Talefre glacier didn't require crampons for the approach, that's smth...

But this week-end was perfect, everything is slowly getting back into the summer mood again - sun, sun, sun! and hey - we managed this time to get up this -

http://www.bigwall.dk/billeder/cupucin1.jpg

by a mix of Bonatti and the direct line, pure joy on the rock with a night rappel session - and guess what - stone_de_cologne can climb alpine! :D

heiko - all others are driving on the wrong side.


uasunflower


Sep 11, 2006, 1:48 AM
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I've scheduled Eiger for easter holidays. There should be most ice then if the weather is like it's usually.

I was more thinking of a Piola rock route to the right of the normal one, Chant de Cygne - less stonefall, more climbing...and i hope it will last at least one more year :roll: :evil: :shock:


Partner heiko


Sep 11, 2006, 2:33 AM
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stone_de_cologne can climb alpine! :D

:lol: As I've been told stone_d is plenty strong, it will take you some time to wear this guy down! Not like all the others... but I'm confident you will make it. :twisted:

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heiko - all others are driving on the wrong side.


Thanks for the confirmation ;)


Partner tisar


Sep 11, 2006, 2:52 AM
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Ahhh, happy Mournday folks!

What a weekend! Danced my ass off on Friday, relaxed on Saturday and spent the whole Sunday on different slacklines in the park. Nice!

The highlight was to try walking on a 56m (thats 184ft for the non-metrics) slackline :shock: Could have been and bee-stung mustang, the outcome is the same :lol: I hope I can come up with some pix of this awesome result of ingeneering - though I didn't make it two steps without the help of two hands.

At least the 20m/60ft line we rigged parallel I did a couple of times. I even managed to turn around on it. You wouldn't believe how much harder it is to stay on a longer line... different thing, I swear! Hell lot of fun!

Two weeks left at the office... WOOT!

Daniel


stone_d_cologne


Sep 11, 2006, 4:20 AM
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hey folks!
yeah, that was a great weekend!
uasunflower is really strong (mindwise...)! I guess her wasted climbing partners were just too weak.

the direct grand cap combined with the bonatti is just one of the best lines on the stone! just keep in the line of the prominent fissures and tackle some interesting (offwidth, flaring crack) roofs, which make the route mucho overhanging and nicely exposed.

and I (we) already have another project:

mine: american beauty, 8a+, mega crack climbing

uasun: children of the moon, 6a+

let's hope for good weather...
:wink:


uasunflower


Sep 11, 2006, 4:41 AM
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hey folks!
yeah, that was a great weekend!
uasunflower is really strong (mindwise...)! I guess her wasted climbing partners were just too weak.

mmm, you see, heiko, it starts like that...and then there comes a sandal epic, a freezy bivy, some successful cooking and approach/descent localization - and the compliments end...i guess my aiding up the hard pitches doesn't install confidence either...oh well - at least i choose good lines :lol:


uasunflower


Sep 11, 2006, 4:45 AM
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oh, and i believe stone needs a partner to aid up his project, cause i'm not following that - despite the way that line looks :shock: :roll:



...


stone_d_cologne


Sep 11, 2006, 5:15 AM
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important beta: keep epic to a minimum and organize food yourself!
unsalted spaghetti with garlic butter and undefineable belgian cheese. DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME!

see the book 'extreme alpinism' for details.
9 pages dedicated to food!
they even propose sunflower..... :twisted:


stone_d_cologne


Sep 11, 2006, 5:22 AM
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...oh well - at least i choose good lines :lol:

hey! who was the one looking out of the tent first doing topo/mountain comparison...?


Partner tisar


Sep 11, 2006, 5:57 AM
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they even propose sunflower..... :twisted:

Umm, she sure looks tasty, but even in alpinism canibalism should be the absolutly final ressort! :lol:

- Daniel


chrtur


Sep 11, 2006, 6:00 AM
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.... and organize food yourself!

I can not more then totally agree :wink:


uasunflower


Sep 11, 2006, 6:39 AM
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chtur, what have YOU climbed lately? :lol:

actually nevermind, i liked your food! :oops: :twisted:


chrtur


Sep 11, 2006, 6:51 AM
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chtur, what have YOU climbed lately? :lol:

:evil: Nothing!

Came back on Saturday evening from Sweden by car, 3500 km driven in two days. Organized climbing trip on Sunday which was not a such good idea. My partner told me he was not very fit and me neither after the driving and eating junk food. I did the first pitch but I just wanted to go home and sleep. Then my partner continued and got quite afraid and want me to do finish it, also suggested to stop since he did not feel well. Lucky for me since I was not in the mood for climbing I agreed for going home. Next weekend we go back and finish it.

Now it is climbing time again!


uasunflower


Sep 11, 2006, 7:27 AM
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when are you going to dalmazzi? or envers des aiguilles? what about an informal eurofreaks meeting at one of these two refuges before end of september (closure time)? anyone interested? c'mon, we need to have at least one meeting in chamonix... :roll: ? There is awesome multipitch climbing at both spots for everybody...


uasunflower


Sep 11, 2006, 7:30 AM
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best granite in the alps - cracks, slabs, overhangs, roofs - choose your trick!!! routes not involving glacier approach at dalmazzi possible too...and all the crowds are heading home now as the season is practically over - but the sun is with us...


stone_d_cologne


Sep 11, 2006, 7:36 AM
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may the sun be with us... 8^)


uasunflower


Sep 11, 2006, 7:39 AM
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envers des aiguilles refuge, 3h approach from Montenvers train station at Chamonix (18 euros both ways for the train)

http://www.clubalpin-chamonix.com/images/RfEnv.jpg

and this is your view from the refuge -

http://www.camp4.com/...rs_des_aiguilles.jpg

or dalmazzi refuge, 2h approach from the italian side parking

http://www.hutten.be/.../htn-it-dalmazzi.jpg


Partner heiko


Sep 11, 2006, 7:58 AM
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About the weather... I was about to go on a four-day climbing trip starting Wednesday, and I checked the weather... at least Thu/Fri it's going to be pouring, from Chamonix to the Dolomites.... Doesn't seem as if the weather would be with anyone at the moment... :(

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