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c4c
Sep 8, 2006, 8:44 PM
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Alpininst 16 pages 56-57 Alex Huber.-- It looks like his belay anchor is one bolt? and his first piece is another bolt on the other side of his belayer--if he falls he will take out the belayer for sure! And his belayer has his palm up! Does Alex have a death wish or am I interpreting the picture wrong?
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crotch
Sep 8, 2006, 8:51 PM
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No, you're interpretation is correct. Palms up belay = death fer sure.
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timm
Sep 8, 2006, 9:35 PM
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Post picture please ... for those of us that don't have an Alpinist mag in front of us.
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c4c
Sep 8, 2006, 9:48 PM
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git off your lazy butt, walk into the bathroom and pick it up. If you don't own it you should.
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devils_advocate
Sep 8, 2006, 9:52 PM
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In reply to: git off your lazy butt, walk into the bathroom and pick it up. If you don't own it you should.
That was classic.
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timm
Sep 8, 2006, 9:52 PM
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In reply to: git off your lazy butt, walk into the bathroom and pick it up. If you don't own it you should.
Hehehe. I actually don't own it. And, yes, I should subscribe.
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csproul
Sep 8, 2006, 10:23 PM
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You'd be surprised what people around the world find acceptable that many people in the US deem unsafe (and vice versa I'm sure). And sometimes you have to make do with what you get, like one bolt at a belay or the location of the next bolt.
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cam
Sep 8, 2006, 10:53 PM
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Registered: Apr 4, 2004
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"What's wrong with this picture?"
I can't see it...
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cintune
Sep 9, 2006, 1:52 AM
Post #10 of 16
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In reply to: Alpininst 16 pages 56-57 Alex Huber.-- It looks like his belay anchor is one bolt? and his first piece is another bolt on the other side of his belayer--if he falls he will take out the belayer for sure! And his belayer has his palm up! Does Alex have a death wish or am I interpreting the picture wrong?
No, you're just apparently not familiar with the Hubermenschen.
Have a look here:
http://www.jamesak.sk/video/kommunist.wmv
(Right-click, Save As for easiest viewing)
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c4c
Sep 9, 2006, 12:03 PM
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so if I can solo 8b+ then I can make my belay anchors on multi-pitch .13 on one bolt????? :shock:
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devkrev
Sep 9, 2006, 12:10 PM
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Registered: Sep 28, 2004
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He doesn't belay offa one bolt because he climbs hard, he does it because he is European. Those folks are nuts, I hear they don't even put those little caps on electrical outlets to keep people from electrocuting themselves. They are crazy.
dev
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microbarn
Sep 9, 2006, 3:13 PM
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Registered: May 12, 2004
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of course they don't use those electrical caps. They would have to use converters because of their different electricity.
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ninja_climber
Sep 9, 2006, 3:32 PM
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^I'm going to hope for the sake of all of us that that was sarcasm lol...
Can we see the picture?
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gargrantuan
Sep 9, 2006, 5:02 PM
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Registered: Apr 1, 2005
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In reply to: Hubermenschen.
gold
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skinner
Sep 9, 2006, 5:23 PM
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
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I just finished reading some of the stories on the Metolius Cafe , one in particular.. Barry Blanchard's account of a winter attempt on Howse Peak: http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/...blanchard-howse2.htm
It's a great story which describes in detail manky anchor after manky anchor. Then I log onto rc.com only to see such shock over a single bolt belay. I think of all the times where I've only been able to establish an anchor on 2-3 tied off knife blades, or tried to equalize a bunch of nested pitons, a single tied off screw, etc. and think how bomber one well placed bolt would have seemed at the time.
I guess in a perfect world every anchor would be triple-redundant-bolted w/chains, but Huber being belayed off of a single bolt just didn't strike me as that crazy.
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