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groovemojo
Aug 16, 2006, 11:02 PM
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Hi all,
I'm headed to the Valley in September to do the PO Wall. We're planning on 6-8 nights. I might be able to get a double Bombshelter ledge, and then again I might be able to get a double Cliff Cabana ledge. Any preferences? thoughts? spew?
Thanks.
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gunked
Aug 17, 2006, 12:18 AM
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Are you going to be sharing the ledge or not?
If Yes, I'd say to go with the Metolius. It's spreader bar makes all the difference. BD's double ledge tends to sag a bunch. The other thing about BD's ledge is it's ease of use or lack thereof. Once you know how to do it and practice it a bunch of times while hanging, it's a pretty sweet setup.
If you do what I did on the Prow and practice it only a few times in my living room, you might spend 2 or so hours(like I did) trying to figure out a fvcking irreversible looking tangle/rubik's cube of a puzzle.
I've setup and slept in a Metolius only a couple of times. And not on a wall. I can't attest to it's durability, but it's comfort is impressive!
Good luck on the PO wall!
-Jason :D
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euroford
Aug 17, 2006, 3:01 AM
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he's talking about the new BD Cliff Cabana based on the ACE/A5, not BD's previous model ledges.
i reckon this is going to be the greatest ledge to date.
if BD ever gets around to selling some that is.
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groovemojo
Aug 17, 2006, 4:22 AM
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yeah, just for clarification - I will be sharing the ledge, and I'm looking at the Metolius Double Bombshelter w/ fly or the new Black Diamond Double Cliff Cabana w/ simple fly, based on the A5 design.
Thanks again for any wisdom and/or laughs received.
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dirtbagger
Sep 9, 2006, 7:14 PM
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I unfortunately can't comment on the new BD portaledge, as they are not delivering it here until late end of the year! And there was a Bombshelter from Metolius I could have immediately. So I ended up purchasing it. However, the fly sucks in IMHO! Unless you do some major modifications! eg add 2 doors, a ventiliation chimney, "real bombproof" protection to the wall side of the fly etc. The portaledge itself I love! Especially the ease of setting it up, solo while hanging in a harness off your bivy belay on a vertical/overhanging wall! The outer ends just slot into each other, no fiddling trying to the get round bit into any sort of hole! Also the spreaderbar is awesome, little flex (I guess important if you ave 2 heavys on it).
I described what I got modified on the fly on this post "A couple of Portaledge problems/questions "
Will try and post some pics of them once I get it sorted
cheers
dirtbagger
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holdplease2
Sep 9, 2006, 8:13 PM
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I have the previous version A5 and am pretty familiar with the new BD...here's the comparo as I see it, having spent 20+ nights on both the A5 (basis for the new BD with a few cool changes) and the Metolius Double Bomb Shelter.
Bed Material:BD: Waterproof ripstop bed. Metolius: Regular nylon
Drainage: BD: Large mesh drain square. Metolius: Large metal grommet
Suspension setup: BD: Quicklink connections suspension to bed, easy to untangle. Metolius Girth hitched.
Construction Elastic: BD: Bombproof elastic in the tubes. Metolius: Mine had 1/4 inch! Broke twice.
Construction Poles: BD: Three side pole construction, breaks down small for EZ carry Metolius: Two side pole construction, a bit faster, a bit lighter, longer when packed.
Flys: BD: Two fly options, both fairly light, one with doors and condensation/circulation vents. Importanty IMO, the new BD flys will have an envelope closure that seals around the bed! This prevents updrafts from soaking you. Metolius: Totally bombproof but sweltering ventless heavy PVC coaten nylon or something. Metolius has a cool RF welded suspension point to be absolutely waterproof. Nice! The metolius fly overlaps about 8 inches all the way around the bed, sufficient for most conditions, I'd guess. The metolius fly material is more durable (IMO) than the old A5 fly materials, but I haven't handled the new BD fly material. Its a balance - durability vs weight/swelter factor.
Wear Prevention: BD: Wall side bumpers, wall side ballistic nylon to protect your ledge material: Metolius: Nothing.
Stability: BD: Sets up and stays stable without a spreader bar Metolius: Unstable without spreader bar, but stays nice and flat with two folks when spreader bar is in place. Nice. Though I have had two ledge "collapses" where irregularites in the rock/sloping ledges interfered with the spreader bars ability to do its job, resulting in hourglassing and the end poles slipping out. Ugh.
Top suspension Point: BD: Bombproof metal "anker point" to clip into, and which keeps nylon separated at top. Metolius: Nylon bar tacked, works just fine.
This does not include the new BD features added to the design above which include easier setup/breakdown due to innovative joints, more adjustability in the suspension, better wall-side bumpers and more.
For my money? BD all the way. However, the metolius is an absolutely great ledge...and for most climbers many of the BD features will never really be necessary. Not sure of the price difference between the two ledges.
Hope this helps, and enjoy your wall!
-Kate.
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groovemojo
Sep 9, 2006, 11:22 PM
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Kate,
Its been said before but it bears repeating:
YOU TOTALLY AND HUGELY ROCK!!!
thanks so much for sharing all your info and experience.
I leave for Yos in a few days but couldn't get either the BD nor the Metolious ledge in time, so we're back to 2 circa 1989 Fish singles: heavy and hard to assemble but bomber!
hope to see you in the vertical world sometime.
have fun & play safe,
Jerome
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holdplease2
Sep 10, 2006, 4:20 AM
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Hey Jerome:
Suhweet!
I'll be there basically every day starting next Wednesday, so come over and say hi if you are on the ground...I have a black truck, black hair, black shirt, and red bull.
Invariably.
:)
-Kate.
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stymingersfink
Sep 11, 2006, 5:53 AM
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Great comparison, kate. Thanks for the beta...
Now if BD would get the damn thing available, we'd all be happier
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