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kurre
Sep 11, 2006, 6:44 AM
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I will soon start climbing again, one time a week, on a course on a gym with other people. But i think, and many ppl here also suggest, that one time a week is not enough. So I want to train one more time a week, but i dont have any climbing partner yet, so i guess i will just be bouldering. How should i boulder to improve my climbing as much as possible? Hard routes with breaks, doing a lot of easy routes after eachother, or just boulder randomly? what is the most efficient bouldering??
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mushroomsamba
Sep 14, 2006, 12:13 AM
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the best way to get stronger is to climb. just keep climbing, and climbing and climbing till you cant climb anymore. sleep and repeat.
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cjsimpso
Sep 14, 2006, 12:21 AM
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Climb steep stuff
Climb slab
Climb hard stuff
Climb easy stuff
Climb when its hot
Climb when its cold
Climb crimps
Climb jugs
Climb a lot when you can
Climb a little when you can't
Climb with new partners
Climb with a cushy pad
Climb the same routes until you wire them
Climb stuff that you can't imagine sending
Climb on the sharp end
Climb choss
Climb without feet
Climb without hands
Climb without feet or hands (?)
Climb until your fingers bleed
Climb trees
Climb
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bahandi
Sep 14, 2006, 3:23 AM
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what do you mean by 'improve'? stronger? harder? faster? more flexible? more endurance?
my opinion would be to build your base... start with doing everything within a certain level, with different requirements... then work your way up.
basically... climb everything within your sights... it'll help you archive moves, techniques, rest positions and the like
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asc_climb
Sep 14, 2006, 4:29 AM
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In reply to: Climb steep stuff Climb slab Climb hard stuff Climb easy stuff Climb when its hot Climb when its cold Climb crimps Climb jugs Climb a lot when you can Climb a little when you can't Climb with new partners Climb with a cushy pad Climb the same routes until you wire them Climb stuff that you can't imagine sending Climb on the sharp end Climb choss Climb without feet Climb without hands Climb without feet or hands (?) Climb until your fingers bleed Climb trees Climb
and then........climb into bed
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foeslts16
Sep 14, 2006, 6:42 AM
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IMO the climb climb climb harder harder harder theory is BS. It really depends on what area you want to improve upon. A good place to start is improving endurance. If you have an area that you can traverse, jump on. It doesn't have to be difficult, just get miles in. I boulder/traverse 3/4 times a week (in addition to climbing), my traverse lasts for about 1.5 hours on some .8/.9 moves - pretty low impact. It builds wicked finger strength, arm strength and endurance. If you want to improve on crimps make them part of your routine etc...
Tendon strength takes a long time to build, and requires adequate time for your body to repair - so take time off between your workouts.
This whole process takes time so don't push it - I know too many hardcore climbers that have constant/permanent tendon damage.
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climbindrummer
Sep 14, 2006, 9:34 PM
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In reply to: I will soon start climbing again, one time a week, on a course on a gym with other people. But i think, and many ppl here also suggest, that one time a week is not enough. So I want to train one more time a week, but i dont have any climbing partner yet, so i guess i will just be bouldering. How should i boulder to improve my climbing as much as possible? Hard routes with breaks, doing a lot of easy routes after eachother, or just boulder randomly? what is the most efficient bouldering??
If you're looking for a method, pyramids have proven to be both popular and effective. Basically you determine what your hardest level is (let's say V2). You would begin a session by climbing four V0's, then two V1's, then a V2. You'll be exhausted, but if you stick with it, you'll see serious progress.
V2
V1 V1
V0 V0 V0 V0
Thus the term "pyramid". You can do a search on here for pyramids to find out more. You may also want to look up ARC training to develop your local aerobic endurance.
If you really want to improve your climing and can't take a class, I have to reccommend "The Self-Coached Climber..." It's full of movement activities, strength and endurance exercises, and mental strategies for improving every aspect of your climbing.
Hope this helps!
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konaboy
Sep 14, 2006, 11:04 PM
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IMHO if you're only climbing 1-2 times per week, I would recommend just trying to have the most fun out of your sessions. Regardless of what specific area you want to train, just being there and climbing will make you stronger and increase your ability. Eventually you'll be able to identify specific areas in which you think you should focus (do you lack the inches to stick those tricky dynos? do your feet pop off those tiny knife edges when you try to make the next move? are there crimps that you can't hang on because your fingers just give up?) Once you've discovered what you need to work on, and given you have the motivation to do something about improving on those weaknesses, then you might want to consider more focused training and getting into the gym 4+/- times per week.
That's my take anyhoo!
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kurre
Sep 15, 2006, 1:07 PM
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i have actually never seen the grades V0, V1 and V2 in the gym im climbing at. Where are these grades used?
and also, the pyramid you describe are the complete opposite from the one in this article (altough this one is for gym exercises) http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=202
is there any different if you start at the top or the bottom at the pyramid?
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shear
Sep 15, 2006, 2:57 PM
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In reply to: i have actually never seen the grades V0, V1 and V2 in the gym im climbing at. Where are these grades used?
err....thats the V scale. it's on par with the YDS grading system.
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climbindrummer
Sep 15, 2006, 7:34 PM
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In reply to: i have actually never seen the grades V0, V1 and V2 in the gym im climbing at. Where are these grades used? and also, the pyramid you describe are the complete opposite from the one in this article (altough this one is for gym exercises) http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=202 is there any different if you start at the top or the bottom at the pyramid?
My bad... I shouldn't post when I'm tired :oops:
Yes, with pyramids you generally start hard and go down. Sometimes with 4x4's you go up (depending on what you're specifically training).
It seems like most gyms don't use the V grade system. I'm not really sure why. If there are some experienced people around the gym you could ask them how they grade their bouldering problems. If they don't grade them, try a bunch out until you find a few problems you can do without much trouble (you may have to use a few "off" holds if the taped routes are still above your level). The find a couple that you can usually do in one or occasionally two tries, then find one that it is at your physical limit. Work these problems in a pyramid as if they were graded.
If you want to do 4x4's to train your anaerobic endurance, you can use some of the same problems. To do a 4x4, you pick four climbs that are in that middle-difficulty range for you. Climb the first one at a comfortable pace and use good technique (it's not a speed climb). When you're done, go right to the next climb without a rest. Do all four problems without resting between any of them. Time each of the climbs if you can (they should be in the 2-3 minute range but remember, this is not about how fast you can climb). When you finish the last problem, rest for the equivalent of one problem (that's why you time them). Then start at the beginning and do all four again. Repeat this until you have done all four problems four times (a 4x4). Your forearms will be SCREAMING with a vicious pump after the first couple of problems -- KEEP CLIMBING, even if you fall off. The goal is to develop an almost unbearable pump and sustain it in order to improve your local anaerobic endurance. Rest for at least two days after a 4x4 and know that you can injure yourself if you climb again too soon after a round of 4x4s. (see "the Self-Coached Climber..." for a better description)
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fluxus
Sep 15, 2006, 8:02 PM
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In reply to: and also, the pyramid you describe are the complete opposite from the one in this article (altough this one is for gym exercises) http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=202 is there any different if you start at the top or the bottom at the pyramid?
The article you refrence has nothing to do with the pyramids that I think climbingdrummer is advocating.
When doing a pyramid as part of a climbing activity its often helpful to "go up" one side of the pyramid and "down" the other, putting your most difficult problem at about the mid point of the workout.
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foeslts16
Sep 15, 2006, 8:03 PM
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my problem with the op bouldering is as follows:
if he is new, he needs to build endurance - bouldering does do this for very short explosive periods of time. i think he would get more out of climbing/traversing easy routes up and down or side to side - working the arms and hands till you can't hold on anymore. For me bouldering was good for strength, but on any climb you need endurance, the ability to hang out and find the best holds, especially for a beginner.
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kurre
Sep 17, 2006, 2:08 PM
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you think it can be good training to boulder 4x4s one week, and pyramids the next week and continue like that??
In reply to: if he is new, he needs to build endurance - bouldering does do this for very short explosive periods of time. i think he would get more out of climbing/traversing easy routes up and down or side to side |
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foeslts16
Sep 20, 2006, 6:10 AM
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In reply to: is there any difference in the training if i traverse easy routes, or climb many easy bouldering problems after each other?
hmm, climbing and/or traversing will build endurance ( follow me here now, ) because you are moving/climbing constantly (constantly - adjective-continuing without pause or letup; unceasing), you are more likely to get that really deep arm workout. unless your fucking sprinting between boulder problems, i am gonna have to say that the workout is not going to be the same. I am going to generalize here for a minute and say that most Bouldering requires a series of a few (6/8) moves, and granted these moves can vary from retarded hard to mildly hard - it's building different muscle groups - not the best way to really build endurance.
Lets's liken this to another scenario:
You could probably build yourself a 747 jet (we are assuming in this scenario that you have the necessary skill, experience, etc...), out of recycled aluminum foil from your local pizza place.
Orrrrrrrrr. you could go to the local mega-super plane part store and get all the parts and assemble then.
which way ya wanna go.
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tommez
Sep 21, 2006, 8:19 AM
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In reply to: you think it can be good training to boulder 4x4s one week, and pyramids the next week and continue like that?? [is there any difference in the training if i traverse easy routes, or climb many easy bouldering problems after each other?
No, this is not a good idea. If you're only training one day a week, it's better to play around on different problems. Do you have a goal? Because once a week is way to little is you want to progress. You have started several treads regarding training on this site. I would recommend that you learn a bit about training. Try some of the books out there: The self coached climber, How to climb 5.12, training for climbing.
Good luck
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kurre
Sep 21, 2006, 1:38 PM
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In reply to: If you're only training one day a week, it's better to play around on different problems. |
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