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Koala Rock smith rock
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3cclimber


Sep 21, 2006, 11:27 PM
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Koala Rock smith rock
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I am trying to find out iformation on Koala rock at Smith rocks in Oregon. What is the best way to get there, I am looking at climbing round river 5-4. Any information on how to get there and instructions to find the climb would be really appreciated. If you have photo's or GPS readings that would be awsome to. (i know i should just get a guide book but i'm only going to be at smith for one day with the parents and cant justify spending the money)


Thank you


3cclimber


Sep 22, 2006, 4:16 PM
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Re: Koala Rock smith rock [In reply to]
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BUMP


david_smithrock


Sep 22, 2006, 4:55 PM
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Koala Rock is about a 45min-1hr hike, and is pretty easy to find, although it may sound confusing. Here we go:

Go down the main trail to the footbridge, take a right.

Continue on the river trail for about a mile (maybe 20 minutes) till you run into a rescue litter and an empty trail register at a trail junction.

Go uphill and take the left of two uphill trails about 30 feet from the litter.

This runs into the Burma Road (gravel), and the irrigation canal. Go uphill on the gravel road.

Follow the gravel road uphill for maybe 1/4 mile till it turns sharply left. Koala Rock is the obvious formation just uphill from you at that point. There is a climbers trail heading up to it.



Round River is a really cool route, and not too hard to find. When you get to the base of Koala Rock, walk left. Just as it starts to go uphill there is a big tree (the only one around). Round River starts right next to it, on the obvious slab with bolts. The route is pretty obvious, till you get to the last little bit, where you can go right and up (5.8), or left, around, and up (5.4). There's an easy scramble / rappel down the back side.

Have fun! Feel free to PM me if you have any other Smith questions!

David


david_smithrock


Sep 22, 2006, 5:03 PM
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ps.

You can rent a guidebook for the day at our store (the Rockhard / Smith Rock Climbing Guides building.....we're at the state park). It's $5 for the first day, .50 for following days. Just thought you'd like to know :wink:


summerprophet


Sep 22, 2006, 5:10 PM
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Re: Koala Rock smith rock [In reply to]
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Access;
Park at the main parking area, take the main trail down into the river valley. Right after the bridge, take a right and hike along the river trail. Follow this trail all the way around the bend for quite some time until you will reach a fork in the trail (this fork will be at, or just after a stretcher shed) take the leftmost fork and hike up the hill to get to the Burma road. From the Burma road, you will be able to see Koala rock. Hike up Burma road until you are at the switchback under the rocks. You will see a sign here about trail closures. Do not freak out, there is a new trail marked just right of this sign. Take this trail and it will wander up and left to Koala rock. The start to Round River is about 20 feet (more or less) uphill from a large tree (I think it was a Juniper).

Route:
The route can be done with a single rope, If you are comfortable with quite serious run outs, it can be done with just draws, Otherwise a set of nuts and a 0.75 and 1 Camalot will do the job.

Pitch 1 - Climb the easy slab setting nuts between the bolts. With a sixty, climb up past the first anchor (clipping with a long runner) to the second anchor on a large ledge.

Pitch 2 - Climb left along a ramp system for about 25 to 30 feet until you can climb around and up a block. climb upward and slightly rightward to the summit. (Note: Anchor bolts are on big ledge below true summit.) Rap bolts are 15 to 20 feet to climbers right of route anchors

Pitch 2 Variation - Climb directly up from Large ledge on new closely spaced bolts directly to the rap anchors (5.8).

You want to get on this climb in the early morning while it is in the shade.


3cclimber


Sep 23, 2006, 3:28 AM
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Re: Koala Rock smith rock [In reply to]
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Thanks

summerprophet and david_smithrock I really appreciate the detailed information it has helped me out alot.


Thanks again


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