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thespider
Sep 26, 2006, 5:19 PM
Post #651 of 3255
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In reply to: I don't know that the figure 8 undoes really easy, but still. Once should have a backup! i hope you weren't belaying palms up.
Gah, Wahhh? You do know the figure 8 undos really easily, or you don't? One should have a backup or there should be a backup once?
I always have a double or triple fisherman's backup on my figure 8, but my partners obviously didn't.
anykineclimb, what did you think was funny about my knot?
chossmonkey, I've got my suit on and a extinguisher at hand!
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thespider
Sep 26, 2006, 5:35 PM
Post #652 of 3255
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In reply to: I don't know that the figure 8 undoes really easy, but still. Once should have a backup! i hope you weren't belaying palms up.
Gah, Wahhh? You do know the figure 8 undos really easily, or you don't? One should have a backup or there should be a backup once?
I always have a double or triple fisherman's backup on my figure 8, but my partners obviously didn't.
anykineclimb, what did you think was funny about my knot?
chossmonkey, I've got my suit on and a extinguisher at hand!
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anykineclimb
Sep 26, 2006, 5:46 PM
Post #653 of 3255
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In reply to: anykineclimb, what did you think was funny about my knot?
it looks like you got about a two foot loop before your know and other foot to the backup.
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thespider
Sep 26, 2006, 7:59 PM
Post #655 of 3255
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In reply to: In reply to: anykineclimb, what did you think was funny about my knot? it looks like you got about a two foot loop before your know and other foot to the backup.
Ah! I see what your saying. yes, it does look like I do, ha ha.
brent_e, everything I have heard or read says back up your knot. Although, I have never read anything about length between figure 8 knots and backups. :D
The only reason you would not back up your knot is that no one ever told you to do so. Or you don't care about your life.
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chossmonkey
Sep 26, 2006, 8:10 PM
Post #656 of 3255
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:nono:
You boys are so busy trying to discuss something that doesn't need discussing. You've high-jacked the thread!
I've provided a perfectly good bad photo that was submitted SIDEWAYS!!!! and nobody has a comment on that. :roll:
Who cares if a figure-eight isn't backed up! It isn't going to come untied.
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timm
Sep 26, 2006, 8:25 PM
Post #657 of 3255
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Registered: Nov 4, 2005
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: anykineclimb, what did you think was funny about my knot? it looks like you got about a two foot loop before your know and other foot to the backup. Ah! I see what your saying. yes, it does look like I do, ha ha. brent_e, everything I have heard or read says back up your knot. Although, I have never read anything about length between figure 8 knots and backups. :D The only reason you would not back up your knot is that no one ever told you to do so. Or you don't care about your life.
I don't want to hi-jack the thread anymore than already it has been but I thought it was worth commenting on the figure 8 thing.
I have a friend that did a bunch of pull tests at Blue Water a few years ago on Figure 8 knots. No matter how badly he tied the knot, no matter how loose the knot was or even if the knot was not completely tied (e.g. partially untied), the rope broke at close at close to rated strength. Even using a slow pull speed, partially tied Figure 8 knots did not become anymore untied than they already were. They just simply tightened up until the rope broke at where it entered the figure 8 knot.
Figure 8's don't come untied if you tie them anything close to correctly. They are considered a tight knot as compared to a bowline which is considered a loose knot.
There is never a reason to "backup" a figure 8 knot except to keep any extra rope out of the way. It's just one of those things that have been passed along from climber to climber as that's the way I've always done it without any basis in fact as to why it was ever started.
Oh yeah, chossmonkey, great photo.
Cheers.
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deltav
Sep 26, 2006, 8:29 PM
Post #658 of 3255
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Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 597
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: anykineclimb, what did you think was funny about my knot? it looks like you got about a two foot loop before your know and other foot to the backup. Ah! I see what your saying. yes, it does look like I do, ha ha. brent_e, everything I have heard or read says back up your knot. Although, I have never read anything about length between figure 8 knots and backups. :D The only reason you would not back up your knot is that no one ever told you to do so. Or you don't care about your life. I don't want to hi-jack the thread anymore than already it has been but I thought it was worth commenting on the figure 8 thing. I have a friend that did a bunch of pull tests at Blue Water a few years ago on Figure 8 knots. No matter how badly he tied the knot, no matter how loose the knot was or even if the knot was not completely tied (e.g. partially untied), the rope broke at close at close to rated strength. Even using a slow pull speed, partially tied Figure 8 knots did not become anymore untied than they already were. They just simply tightened up until the rope broke at where it entered the figure 8 knot. Figure 8's don't come untied if you tie them anything close to correctly. They are considered a tight knot as compared to a bowline which is considered a loose knot. There is never a reason to "backup" a figure 8 knot except to keep any extra rope out of the way. It's just one of those things that have been passed along from climber to climber as that's the way I've always done it without any basis in fact as to why it was ever started. Oh yeah, chossmonkey, great photo. Cheers. |
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kman
Sep 26, 2006, 9:36 PM
Post #659 of 3255
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Registered: Oct 16, 2001
Posts: 2561
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In reply to: The only reason you would not back up your knot is that no one ever told you to do so. Or you don't care about your life.
STFU noob!!!111
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cchildre
Sep 27, 2006, 4:41 PM
Post #662 of 3255
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Registered: May 5, 2004
Posts: 671
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Is that the sun I see? Looks like a nuclear blast is going off!
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winglessangel
Sep 27, 2006, 4:49 PM
Post #663 of 3255
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Registered: Apr 29, 2004
Posts: 459
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In reply to: :nono: You boys are so busy trying to discuss something that doesn't need discussing. You've high-jacked the thread! I've provided a perfectly good bad photo that was submitted SIDEWAYS!!!! and nobody has a comment on that. :roll: Who cares if a figure-eight isn't backed up! It isn't going to come untied.
OK, comment, the picture isn't bad, only makes me wonder how come someone can manage to go on-line, log in to RC.com, submit a picture (dude, there are many fields to fill) but can't manage to turn a pic sideways.
reminds me of something:
MY SISTER "Why the letter gets capitalize when "shift" is pressed"
ME "daa, cause that is what shift IS FOR.."
MY SISTER "no CAPS LOCK does that!"
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sbaclimber
Sep 27, 2006, 9:34 PM
Post #664 of 3255
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118
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In reply to: reminds me of something: MY SISTER "Why the letter gets capitalize when "shift" is pressed" ME "daa, cause that is what shift IS FOR.." MY SISTER "no CAPS LOCK does that!"
That....and the fact I really don't know jack about computers anyway.... :P
Edit, another classic:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=78955
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brent_e
Sep 27, 2006, 10:24 PM
Post #665 of 3255
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111
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In reply to: In reply to: reminds me of something: MY SISTER "Why the letter gets capitalize when "shift" is pressed" ME "daa, cause that is what shift IS FOR.." MY SISTER "no CAPS LOCK does that!" That's one of those conversations that make me so glad I (barely) managed to avoid computer support. That....and the fact I really don't know jack about computers anyway.... :P Edit, another classic: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=78955
if i'm not mistaken, those are wigwam socks.
comfy socks, i say.
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sbaclimber
Sep 28, 2006, 12:32 AM
Post #667 of 3255
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:shock: omg, how'd I miss those!?
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chossmonkey
Sep 28, 2006, 12:39 AM
Post #668 of 3255
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
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In reply to: :shock: omg, how'd I miss those!?
I will admit I passed on the first one. I didn't see the others though.
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zeke_sf
Sep 28, 2006, 1:38 AM
Post #669 of 3255
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Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730
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helmet-clad top-roper. that's my kind of superhero!
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granite_grrl
Sep 28, 2006, 2:33 AM
Post #670 of 3255
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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Dude, the superhero look is in! Check out the two that my friend Brent and I saw down at the Gunks last fall (PS - photo taken by Brent, and not actually taken off RC.com)
http://k47.pbase.com/...1949243.DSCN1072.jpg
The guy in the orange leotard did say it was pretty hot to wear, and the other guy said that capes just aren't that practical. So maybe not the best look for climbing.
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brent_e
Sep 28, 2006, 2:53 AM
Post #672 of 3255
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
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In reply to: Dude, the superhero look is in! Check out the two that my friend Brent and I saw down at the Gunks last fall (PS - photo taken by Brent, and not actually taken off RC.com) http://k47.pbase.com/...1949243.DSCN1072.jpg The guy in the orange leotard did say it was pretty hot to wear, and the other guy said that capes just aren't that practical. So maybe not the best look for climbing.
that's a shitty pic.
freakin noob photographers.
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robbovius
Sep 28, 2006, 11:43 AM
Post #674 of 3255
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Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
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You lunkheads! don't you recognize Nut Man, fantastic new superhero of the current economic slump!
Nutmaaaan, NA na na na na na na na, Nutmaaaan, NA na na na na na na na,
Nutmaaaan, NA na na na na na na na, Nutmaaaan, NA na na na na na na na,
Nutman, Nutman, Nutman
Na na na na na na na na na na NA!
NUT MAN!!!!"
these piscs are all from the MASS CLIMBERS First Ascent Party on 9/23.
I was there, and you clowns weren't.
I got an FA and you di'nt, oh NO you di'nt. suckaz!
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robbovius
Sep 28, 2006, 11:46 AM
Post #675 of 3255
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Registered: Nov 20, 2002
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In reply to: helmet-clad top-roper. that's my kind of superhero!
actually, he led the FA. see all that rope on the ground in the first pic? the second pic is on the lower-off.
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