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themarians


Sep 27, 2006, 1:35 AM
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Beginner climber + beginner partner = recipe for disaster ?
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Hi,

Sorry if this question is posted else where I did look with no luck.


My husband and I are interested in climbing neither of us have ANY experience ( I don't count 3 or 4 times on a climbing wall at the bowling Alie :) ) I would say the only think I actually know about climbing is that its an intense mental and physical sport that allows you to experience the greatest parts of world.

Both of us LOVE the outdoors and love adventure so we are interested in climbing and seeing if its something that we fall in love with.

Having trained horses and given riding lessons I know that green rider + green horse = DISASTER

We plan on taking a class's together and learning together - Hoping to eventually climb outdoors together. Is this realistic or will we inadvertently be putting each others lives at risk ?


awilson86


Sep 27, 2006, 1:40 AM
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i would take a class or something if i were you.
you may be ok, then again, you may not.


veganboyjosh


Sep 27, 2006, 1:46 AM
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In reply to:
We plan on taking a class's together and learning together.

you're on the right track...

In reply to:
Hoping to eventually climb outdoors together. Is this realistic or will we inadvertently be putting each others lives at risk ?

as for learning the basics, especially indoors, a class is awesome. my wife and i got into climbing that way.
as for the transition to out of doors, i would suggest finding another experienced climber who can take you out--as a pair, or as individuals, depending on your couple learning style, or both.
there's so much involved once you get outside that's not even mentioned on an indoor wall.
the best advice i've heard given to beginners is to read all you can, ask as many questions as you can, pay attention to the answers, and most importantly, know where your limits are, physically, as well as knowledge wise. don't be afraid/shy/proud to speak your mind if something seems unsafe.

a good partner will respect your questions, and answer them clearly.

good luck, and welcome aboard.


the_dave


Sep 27, 2006, 1:57 AM
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When I first started climbing, I never thought I'd be going outside, but I practiced, over and over again, and with time I was ready to go outside. But yeah, it's a real goal, you can for sure climb outside, just make sure you're safe and understand what you're doing inside first.


the_dave


Sep 27, 2006, 1:59 AM
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Ack, sorry for double post.


chossmonkey


Sep 27, 2006, 2:00 AM
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In reply to:
We plan on taking a class's together and learning together - Hoping to eventually climb outdoors together. Is this realistic or will we inadvertently be putting each others lives at risk ?

Ask your instructor what they think of your skills after taking the classes. As long as the two of you know the basics before you take off on your own you should be fine.


overlord


Sep 27, 2006, 5:13 AM
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take a class and stay humble and you should be ok.

its not really bad if youre both begginers if you take it slow. youll learn along the way, just be carefull not to overestimate your abilities; that has killed more climbers than almost anything else.


north_vancouver


Sep 27, 2006, 7:21 AM
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:D My Girlfriend and I started climbing (outdoors) almost 3 weeks ago. I have had previous experience almost 5 years ago when I was in the military. I had very little to remember by and my girlfriend had no experience. I started the same way as you by going to indoor climbing. During the time climbing indoors (2 1/2 months) I went continously to the local mountains and watched every little detail of other climbers. How they anchored, belay devices they used, rope, and payed attention to differnt climbing techniques. Now this doesn't make you an expert, but sure gives you a good outlook on whats ahead. So I bought my girlfriend and I the Black Diamond Momentum Packages that included the harness, atc, chalk bag, and locking caribeener. (I also got a smoking deal on it because the local store priced it wrong...49.99 cad vs. 109.99 cad :lol: ) I then felt confident that a good beginner rope would be a 10.4 mm. I bought a couple of slings, some more caribeeners, and an extra 10 feet of rope.

Its been 3 weeks now that I have been climbing outdoors and I have read numerous posts on safety. Can't stress safety, and all the posts I read say same thing.

However, Do what you feel is right. Feel like you need classes? Take them. Are your lifes @ risk? Maybe, Maybe Not. So long as you are 100% confident that you do not need help, then why get a class? I have ridden a horse before, both saddled and not. Not to say all horses are the same, but I bet if I read up on it, and studied other people, I may not need classes to ride in an open field, but compared to a narrow downhill trail I may want some tips before heading out.

I may not be the best person to ask advice, but my girlfriend and I have conquered some wikid cliffs in out area without classes.

Communication is important. Belay Commands help.
Always tying off when your near the cliff edge.
Double checking locked caribeeners.
Watching the rope near or on sharp edges. Firemans hose works great.
Prussik knots, 8 knots, and great to know.
Search for other knots that may help.
KNots URL:



http://www.uoregon.edu/...22bachmann%20knot%22

Hope this helps.
Robert.


beesty511


Sep 27, 2006, 8:01 AM
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In reply to:
We plan on taking a class's together and learning together - Hoping to eventually climb outdoors together. Is this realistic or will we inadvertently be putting each others lives at risk ?
i think that's a pretty good situation to be in. you know that the person belaying you really values your life highly and presumably will do everything in their power to protect it.

take some classes indoors, and then when you feel confident you can belay safely, take some outdoor classes from a certified guide. i can't stress enough how important it is to learn to belay safely--which is an evolving process. everytime you go climbing you should think about how you can improve your belaying. most people get way too casual about belaying after a few months and never improve past the beginner stage--which means they aren't doing everything possible to protect their climber.

the good thing about learning in a gym is that you can get some experience catching falls.


beesty511


Sep 27, 2006, 8:05 AM
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In reply to:
We plan on taking a class's together and learning together - Hoping to eventually climb outdoors together. Is this realistic or will we inadvertently be putting each others lives at risk ?
i think that's a pretty good situation to be in. you know that the person belaying you really values your life highly and presumably will do everything in their power to protect it.

take some classes indoors, and then when you feel confident you can belay safely, take some outdoor classes from a certified guide. i can't stress enough how important it is to learn to belay safely--which is an evolving process. everytime you go climbing you should think about how you can improve your belaying. most people get way too casual about belaying after a few months and never improve past the beginner stage--which means they aren't doing everything possible to protect their climber.

the good thing about learning in a gym is that you can get some experience catching falls.


Partner epoch
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Sep 27, 2006, 11:09 AM
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[dawn flame weeeetawdent suit] I'm going to suggest another option for you... Based on your location as found on Google. You are near what I would consider the Heart of climbing in Canada. Take advantage of the weather and hire a guide to take you out toproping, if that would be an option for you. The expierence that you'll gain by immediately climbing outdoors vs indoors will give you an idea of where you'll want to be when the spring thaw comes. Instead of climbing some one else's pre-contrieved route it will allow you to flop up the stone in the best manner that you can, while getting instruction and advice from someone who is expierenced. (I know gym instructors who can climb plastic like no one else, but when put outside and told to onsite something that is a bit below thier gym max they freeze up because they aren't in thier comfort zone inside the gym. This will give you an attainable goal to strive for while you are pulling plastic over the winter. As stated above, get deep into the literature. The more knowlede that you and your other half have the easier the transition between indoors and outdoors will be, but since you'll be outdoors initially you will understand what it is that the guide is doing... [/flame weeeeetawdent suit]

I am having one hell of a time right now teaching one of the girls who works in my gym anyting about climbing outside due to the fact that she hasn't read a lick of climbing related literature. She can climb, but is totally lost on real stone. IMO the initial outdoor expierence will give you an idea of what the sport is about and will give you a goal to strive for when you are forced inside due to the kfcuing cold weather and snow.


reg


Sep 27, 2006, 12:49 PM
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In reply to:
"Take advantage of the weather and hire a guide to take you out toproping, if that would be an option for you. The expierence that you'll gain by immediately climbing outdoors vs indoors will give you an idea of where you'll want to be when the spring thaw comes. Instead of climbing some one else's pre-contrieved route it will allow you to flop up the stone in the best manner that you can, while getting instruction and advice from someone who is expierenced"........ "but since you'll be outdoors initially you will understand what it is that the guide is doing..."

good advice - i say climb with a quailified paid instructor or trusted and knowledgeable friend outdoors where they will re-instruct the basics of tieing in, belay, basic top rope anchors and how to climb. use the gym for bad weather days, practice, etc. - knowledge is king so read and study the concepts presented in many publications, ie: anything by John Long, Fasulo, Freedom of the hills, etc. - the more you know hopefully the safer you will be and the better to spot questionable situations to avoid when around other climbers - have fun - be safe


lena_chita
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Sep 27, 2006, 2:05 PM
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Yes, taking a class togehter is a good start. And then finding more experienced people to go with... take it slow.

My husband and I got our "intro" to climbing at Devils Lake 9 years ago-- climbing friend was introducing his girlfriend to climbing, and I guess he figured that if there was one beginner, a few others won't make a difference :) We were clueless-- he set up topropes, checked the harnesses, tied us in... we did what we were told and had fun climbing.

then we took a long break from it... And when we started again, it basicly was the two of us, both novices, but this time we were taking charge of learning... We bought our own shoes and harnesses... started with climbing inside and never really thought we would head outside anytime soon. I remember the girl who was teaching us to belay at the gym said something along the lines of "if you guys want to climb outside, there are trips all the time"-- and we both shrugged and said: not now, we have young kids, there is too much going on.

Then we started climbing regularly at the gym... Then took a technique class... and started climbing better... and gradually met people and talked, and it seemed that a lot of them were climbing outside, but we still weren't ready to go on a "trip". And then one of the guys mentioned that he climbs at a local crag, just 45 min drive away, every Saturday-- and that felt doable. So we got a rope and trimmings. And he tought us to set up anchor. And we started climbing at that crag every weekend.

that led to meeting more people... And finally one guy who was going on a trip to NRG had all his partners bail out on him, but he really wanted to go, so he asked us-- and we felt that we wanted to try it. So we met with him at the gym a couple of times, He taught us the basics of leading and lead belaying, and we headed on our first trip. One thing after another, we got our own draws, and then another rope... and before we knew it, We were the ones planning the trips.


snothead


Sep 27, 2006, 2:26 PM
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You are from Edmonton - you must have a local Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) chapter? The local group where I live (Thunder Bay ON) are the ones who taught me to climb, (and they're still teaching me). I don't know what programs they have out your way but check them out.
You are right - two new people, alone, outside, are a recipe for disaster. You need some experienced people around to guide you. I think of learning to climb as almost an apprenticeship. The book learning (freedom of the hills, john long's books) will give you some of the concepts for safe(er) equipment use and guide you through setting up and assessing anchor situations. But, you need someone you can trust and who has experience to show you how to apply those concepts in the safest way possible in the real world, and to point out your errors and the pitfalls of various options in setting up.


kman


Sep 27, 2006, 2:39 PM
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Since you want to climb outside then start by taking a course that is taught outside. Climbing gyms :roll:


qtm


Sep 27, 2006, 3:05 PM
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If you head out with your partner right now, you'd be putting your lives at risk. But remember, every time I head out, I'm putting my life and the lives of my partners at risk. When we leave the car in the lot and head down the trail, we're accepting that we might never come back. We'll do everything we can to ensure we do, but it's still a risk we take.

You want to do everything you can to reduce the risks, so you can have fun and get back uninjured.

When training horses, you don't send a new rider into a field and say "there's the horse, go to it". Think of it another way; if you were a new rider, what would you expect if you wanted to ride? You'd expect that a trainer has picked a well mannered horse. You expect the trainer to give you some tips, help you mount, take the reins and lead you around a bit until you settle in the saddle. At some point, you'll be comfortable saddling the horse yourself and trotting around the fenced field, but when you head out on the trail, you'd like someone to guide you for a while until you're comfortable. After a while, you're comfortable with that and no longer need a trainer. But maybe the next step, you want to learn how to break a green horse. Again, you turn to the trainer, and again after a while you're ready to do it yourself.

That's pretty much what you'll find when you learn to climb. There are always risks of disaster, but we learn what we can so we can minimize the risks and make it home safely.


the_dave


Sep 27, 2006, 4:15 PM
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So what everyone is saying... Go in the gym, get comfortable, find some people that climb outside, and ask them if you could join them a few times, and learn what you can, and get used to top rope, then slowly work into leading witht their help... (Make sure they have experience though, not some people that just kinda go out and ruin things...)


Partner epoch
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Sep 27, 2006, 4:25 PM
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In reply to:
So what everyone is saying... Go in the gym, get comfortable, find some people that climb outside, and ask them if you could join them a few times, and learn what you can, and get used to top rope, then slowly work into leading witht their help... (Make sure they have experience though, not some people that just kinda go out and ruin things...)

That's not what I said.......................... :wink:


rockguide


Sep 27, 2006, 4:46 PM
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Welcome to the sport - always good to see new Albertans!

There are two great gyms in Edmonton - Vertically inclined and the UofA - both have great courses that will get you started. Once you have learned the basics, climb a little at both until you get a good sense for which gym is most comfortable for you. I would recommend a lead course in January, or once you have about 30 days of climbing in. This will build a foundation for next summer.

Outdoor climbing is going to be a little inaccessible until the spring unless you travel to the south. In the spring, Jasper is the closest climbing to you - unfortunately I think top roping is rare there (most single pitch routes in the rockies are accessed by lead climbing). The good news is that there are a lot of routes that can be accessed by sport climbing.

I would recommend an outdoor climbing course with a guide to smooth the transition. It was suggested earlier that you could learn by hanging around climbing sites and just watching. Yeah, right. There is more than meets the eye. If you meet a skilled climber in the gym, they may be able to teach you - if they are patient and really know what they are doing.

Guides in the jasper area include:

http://www.incentre.net/pamann/

http://www.rescuedynamics.ca/

http://acmguides.com

http://yamnuska.com

B


ccspikes


Sep 27, 2006, 4:59 PM
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You will be fine. Just remember to go slow and double check everything and have fun.


Partner jeff_m


Sep 27, 2006, 5:39 PM
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...and START READING! You will be so much better off having some of the basic concepts floating around in your head before you show up at the gym or crag (knots, essential gear and what it does, commands, etc.). John Long's "How to Rock Climb" is perfect for where you're at. You should also invest in a copy of Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills.


Partner jeff_m


Sep 27, 2006, 5:42 PM
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...and START READING! You will be so much better off having some of the basic concepts floating around in your head before you show up at the gym or crag (knots, essential gear and what it does, commands, etc.). John Long's "How to Rock Climb" is perfect for where you're at. You should also invest in a copy of Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills. Good luck.

[Why can't I post this!!!! ARRGGGG!!! :evil: ]


coolklimber


Oct 2, 2006, 2:54 AM
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Definitly take some classes. Some gyms offer a gym to crag program, which is a great way to start. Definitly get someone experienced to come if you really want to start outside right away. Or get a guide. Good-Luck:)

>Cam


minn8325


Oct 31, 2006, 8:33 PM
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well you should know from being a trainer that formula green rider + green horse = DISASTER is true but you should also know green rider + green horse + Riding lessons = A life long love of al things equestrian. Look at climbing the same way.

get lessons take it slow and be safe.


lhwang


Nov 2, 2006, 12:30 AM
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Not much to add here as everything seems to already have been said but there is some stuff around Nordegg/David Thompson Corridor which might be closer to you than Jasper. The COE in Nordegg has a guidebook available, and they also run courses so maybe they could help you out.

http://www.coe.ca

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