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estwing
Sep 8, 2002, 2:07 AM
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Hi, I wondering how small you folks go in your nut selection for a free climbing rack. In other words whats the smallest piece that you are willing to fall on?
Thanks, have a nice day,
Sam
[ This Message was edited by: estwing on 2002-09-08 06:25 ]
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xanx
Sep 8, 2002, 2:33 AM
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dude, definately change the subject line.
i opened it thinking "oh great, not another n00b asking dumb questions about shoe size"
just a sujestion.
i don't trad. no idea. sorry. (heck, i dont even lead - bouldering, all the way!)
mike
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geezergecko
Sep 8, 2002, 2:14 PM
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The late great C.M. Splatter used to tie a knot in his shoelace and hang on that
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sully
Sep 8, 2002, 2:54 PM
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Occasionally I carry a set of trango brassies. The number 1 is enough to make anyone's A@# hole pucker up as tight as a drum. (I usually try to place a nest of two or three of the small ones...and luckily I haven't had the priveledge to fall on them)
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billcoe_
Sep 8, 2002, 2:59 PM
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On long multi-pitch trad, usually a #3 RP unless I know I don't need it.
If the route is an easy cruise like a Royal Arches in Yosemite, there is no need for it as a small rack of wired nuts 6-7 pieces and a small friend will suffice.
If I have not done the route before and someone tells me, hey, all you need is a standard rack, I still might even take my small #1 and #2 RP's to back up an odd fixed pin or so, even though I don't consider them part of a "standard rack".
Nothing worse than staring a perfect 12 foot long seam -#2 RP taking crack in the face at a crux and not have the piece.
Bill
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boulderpaul
Sep 17, 2002, 1:19 AM
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trad climbing is weak
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jhump
Sep 17, 2002, 1:24 AM
Post #7 of 14
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Registered: May 7, 2002
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Yeah dude, its weak. #3 RP
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winkwinklambonini
Sep 17, 2002, 1:36 AM
Post #8 of 14
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Why wouldn't you bring small stuff, it wieghts so little, and you can always find something for them. I wieght 145 and I carry, and place, and depend on the smallest metolious nuts, and anything above a 3?ish BD stopper(the loop on top is a weak link)
P.S. I am earning for the WC Zero's
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rrrADAM
Sep 17, 2002, 1:44 AM
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If I use #5 BD Stopper or less, I always double up w/ a sliding x and locker to the rope. I have 1-5, but only used the #3's and up for climbing. Have used a #2 in a belay anchor.
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krustyklimber
Sep 17, 2002, 1:56 AM
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When climbing om granite I will carry a full set of BD swedge nuts and stoppers to #2
Jeff
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jt512
Sep 17, 2002, 2:30 AM
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Quote:
If I use #5 BD Stopper or less, I always double up w/ a sliding x and locker to the rope.
Because of the possiblity of shock loading, I don't equalize pieces using a sliding X. Instead I use a clove hitch. I don't know why more people don't use this knot (maybe I'm about to find out!). Using a sewn runner, you tie essentially a "double" clove hitch; that is one clove hitch tied into both strands of the runner. This makes three attachment points in the runner: the clove hitch itself, plus a loop of the runner on either side of the clove hitch. You attach one of the pieces to the clove hitch, one of the loops to the other piece, and the remaing loop to the rope. This provides static equalization for the pieces with no extension should one piece fail.
-Jay
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philbox
Moderator
Sep 17, 2002, 3:15 AM
Post #12 of 14
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Jay, I have to agree with you on the sliding x, I`ve never been a fan of that either. I pretty much always drop a clove hitch in there for redundancy.
...Phil...
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gunked
Sep 17, 2002, 5:28 AM
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depends entirely on the type and quality of the rock. I'm not bringin tiny nuts or micro-cams for soft sandstone. It's just a wast of time! Since I'm usually climbing on granite or quartz conglomerate, I'll bring a few micro brassies along. Down to, about, #3 HB offset. I'll always take the blue alien as well. Contrary to popular belief, in solid rock, they do hold falls if placed well! I've, unintentionally, tested this theory more than once. So will the little purple Metolius tricam!
For that matter, I once fell on the #3 HB offset behing a loose flake. Cheated the grim-reaper that day!!! Thank god it was at my knees when I fell. My next piece was NOT close and the rock was less than vertical.
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tigerbythetail
Sep 19, 2002, 2:55 AM
Post #14 of 14
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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#1 RP - I carry a few though, because it's better for your head to get in more than one - if possible.
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