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johnnord
Oct 21, 2003, 3:42 AM
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First of all, I assume that the real discussion is about the fear of falling on a trad lead. The whole ethos of sport climbing is to eliminate the negative consequences of falling. This allows the sport climber to push the limits of his/her own athletic ability.
Which leads to the second point. Falling does't hurt, impact does. It seems generally true that the higher the grade the more vertical or overhanging the climb. So, in my experience, my falls on harder climbs have had less negative consequences, since they are mostly air. Most of my injuries have been on less difficult, 5.8-5.9, routes where I hit something on the way down. One of my worst was on a 5.4 when a foot hold broke and I cut my shin bouncing my way down 20 feet.
There is some merit to the idea of practicing falling techniques, but the best advice is to use falling as a last resort. You are right to be afraid. It can hurt to land.
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jookyhead
Oct 21, 2003, 3:46 AM
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In reply to: That's BS, if you screw up when playing soccer the other team scores, screw up while climbing you'd probably DIE
Of course in some places if you screw up playing soccer and the other team scores, the FANS will kill you...
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razorock
Oct 9, 2006, 3:09 AM
Post #53 of 58
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I live in southern Utah. My wife and I do a lot of sport climbs. Most you can top rope, But some you can't. My question is how much do i need to worry about hitting the ground. most of it is 35 feet to 50 feet.
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climbingaggie03
Oct 9, 2006, 6:01 AM
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razorock wrote In reply to: I live in southern Utah. My wife and I do a lot of sport climbs. Most you can top rope, But some you can't. My question is how much do i need to worry about hitting the ground. most of it is 35 feet to 50 feet.
The main thing you need to watch for to avoid a ground fall is the bolt spacing. If for example, the first bolt is 10 feet off the deck, and the second bolt is 15 feet off the deck (5 feet above the first bolt) then you don't have to worry about a deck, cause should you fall with your waist at the second bolt you will fall 10 feet plus rope stretch, slack, and any dynamicness given by your belayer. which will put your waist 5-7 feet below the first bolt which is not quite the deck, but close.
If however the first bolt is at ten feet off the deck, and the second bolt is 25 feet off the deck and you fall at the second bolt you will fall 15 feet below the first bolt plus rope stretch etc. But the deck is only 10 feet below the deck so you hit the ground.
This sounds alot more complicated than it sounds, basically you're going to fall twice the distance you are from that bolt, so if you are 4 feet past a bolt, you're going to fall at least 8 feet. If you are more than 8 feet off the ground, you won't deck, if you aren't 8 feet off the ground, you will deck.
Second bolts are usually the main thing to watch out for, some times third bolts. Also you've got to watch out for ledges on some climbs. Hitting a ledge hurts too. Also depending on the area sport climbs aren't known for their deck potential because sport climbing focuses on movement not boldness. However some sport climbs that I've been on weren't bolted well for whatever reason, or they have an easier rating and more ledges and blocks to hit on the way down.
On the original question of falling, you'll always be afraid of it to some extent (hopefully) but there are situations in sport and traditional settings where falling is relatively safe. There are also times (usually on trad climbs, but occasionally on sport routes) that are no fall situations in which a fall would hurt at best, and be lethal at worst, so be careful, climb smart and most importantly, have fun.
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jt512
Oct 9, 2006, 4:03 PM
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In reply to: practice falling is load of crap,
Bullshit.
In reply to: as long as you can place gear you are o.k.
Bullshit.
In reply to: easy climbs will have plenty of gear placements.
Bullshit.
In reply to: longer falls are more comfy than short falls
Bullshit.
Jay
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hillbilly
Oct 10, 2006, 2:31 PM
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only the died have no fear
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doubledare
Oct 10, 2006, 4:27 PM
Post #57 of 58
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I've been leading now 2 years. anyone who is sane should be scared of falling. That's what drives you to make bomber placements.
I took my first lead fall last weekend at the Gunks on High Exposure. I highly recomend it as a great place to fall. I was leading the second pitch, and made the mistake of stopping to place a piece in a slightly overhanging area. (In retrospect, I should have climbed up to an easier stance. The climbing was easy but the holding on and sorting through my rack was killer!)
anyway, the first camalot I tried was too big, I started shaking and dropped the second one, and by the time I got out the third I was hanging in midair down by the belay ledge.
My previous .75 camalot held my fall no problem and that was a big confidence booster for me. It also gave me increased confidence in my belayer, who is my 15-year-old daughter. She did a good job.
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catbird_seat
Oct 10, 2006, 6:54 PM
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Registered: Apr 7, 2004
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Twice in this thread, there was mention of "grabbing the rope". No one called them out on it! Is anyone paying attention?
I can't think of a time when it is ever good to grab the rope. It is a great way to lose a digit. I've heard stories of people who have done just that. You fall, grab at the rope, the rope gets wrapped around a thumb, and off comes the thumb!
Keep your hands off the rope when you fall!
In reply to: GS771 Wrote: Good advice. I'd add (from hairy experience!) that having the rope run between your legs = Ok EXCEPT when traversing. If you fall on a traverse and the rope is between your legs, rather than running in front of you and to the direction of your last placement, you can be flipped over if you fall. I read a lot of climbing books, but never came across this point - had to make a mistake to learn about it. Luckily I was not only wearing a helmet, but thought to grab the rope as I fell so the fall was relatively controlled. |
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