Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions:
TR Joshua Tree
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Regional Discussions

Premier Sponsor:

 


mpotts


Oct 12, 2006, 5:22 PM
Post #1 of 7 (719 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 12, 2006
Posts: 4

TR Joshua Tree
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Any suggestions on routes to TR at J Tree using either natural anchors or bolts? (Prefer to using cams at this point).

Thanks-


timm


Oct 12, 2006, 5:52 PM
Post #2 of 7 (719 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 4, 2005
Posts: 314

Re: TR Joshua Tree [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

This might help: http://www.joshuatreeclimb.com/TopRopes/topropes.htm

But, what's wrong with cams ?

Cheers.


ediceus


Oct 12, 2006, 6:29 PM
Post #3 of 7 (719 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 7, 2006
Posts: 22

Re: TR Joshua Tree [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

atlantis rock, in lost horse
thin wall, real hidden valley
= Easy set ups!


jcrew


Oct 12, 2006, 7:15 PM
Post #4 of 7 (719 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 11, 2006
Posts: 673

Re: TR Joshua Tree [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
thin wall, real hidden valley

you and 1,000 others.......

Big Moe, bolts........super climb if you can pull the .11 move low.


mpotts


Oct 16, 2006, 5:15 PM
Post #5 of 7 (719 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 12, 2006
Posts: 4

Re: TR Joshua Tree [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

On your rec, I'm looking at "Men with cows heads" and "solar technology" on the Atlantis rock. Anyone know if these are easily TR using slings/extensions to boulders on top? Is this area busy mid week?

Thanks-


timm


Oct 16, 2006, 5:25 PM
Post #6 of 7 (719 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 4, 2005
Posts: 314

Re: TR Joshua Tree [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
On your rec, I'm looking at "Men with cows heads" and "solar technology" on the Atlantis rock. Anyone know if these are easily TR using slings/extensions to boulders on top? Is this area busy mid week?

Thanks-

Beware of placing gear under the "balanced boulder" that is above "Men with Cow Heads".

You can sling large boulders that are on top but most are back away from the edge. You will probably need at least 75 feet of static line to sling the boulders and then extend the anchor to the edge of the climbs.


billl7


Oct 16, 2006, 5:51 PM
Post #7 of 7 (719 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1890

Re: TR Joshua Tree [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
On your rec, I'm looking at "Men with cows heads" and "solar technology" on the Atlantis rock. Anyone know if these are easily TR using slings/extensions to boulders on top? Is this area busy mid week?
Before leading them, we TR'd those last April using a 50 foot static rope for the anchor. We looped the static rope through a wide ~horizontal crack on the backside of the wall (not boulders on top). Not sure how easy it would be to get by with something shorter - we didn't try.

If you go for the long static rope and you want redundancy to the big loop of static rope then you might take cams (~3 inch?) and/or hex(s) and attached them to the static with butterfly knots.

We were there in the middle of the week and it was busy - just get there a little early.

Bill


Forums : Climbing Information : Regional Discussions

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook