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builttospill
Oct 12, 2006, 11:35 AM
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I've mentioned it elsewhere but I'm selling off my small rack of older cams (some bought used, some bought from a friend not used, etc). They are mostly mismatched and I'm tired of having people look at my Forged Friends and say "you climb on those?" Also, it's a ridiculously inefficient rack.....lots of overlap in some sizes and barely any in others (IF any).
THe point is, I'm going to be buying a new set of cams to replace what I had. Since I'm mostly interested in longer routes and alpine stuff, weight is a concern, as is cost. I've determined what the lightest possible rack is, while still covering all sizes from 10mm (well, that's the manufacturer specs, not sure how realistic or accurate that is in real world application) to 114ish millimeters. This configuration would result in the 5 smallest cams being from one company, the two middle (30-50 mm) being a different company/model and the last three (the big mothers, from 50 mm to 114) being another company and model.
What are people's opinions of mismatched cams? I mean, I assume I'd get used to it, since that's what I do now, but are there obvious advantages to having all similar cams that I am missing? They're all single-stem designs except the middle two. The weight savings over the next viable option (5 in one company, larger 5 in another) is 58 grams, and the cost is the same. Does it matter? Is 58 grams worth it? Maybe not. It's only 2 ounces. But do differing cam types matter?
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clarki
Oct 12, 2006, 12:08 PM
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Longer routes? Alpine? I'd keep the forged friends--lighter than C4s and will outlast just about anything out there! Get some hexes as well,, they are even lighter yet and don't hurt so much to leave behind on a rap............
new gear is overrated!!!!!!
John
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tradmanclimbs
Oct 12, 2006, 12:24 PM
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Mixed rack should be no problem. I hate wimps who can't lead on a strangers rack :roll: get used to all the diferent brands and you will be all set....
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heiko
Oct 12, 2006, 12:46 PM
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I was concerned about the weight thing, too, when I built my rack during the last year. Most of my partners go for BD up to the largest sizes... but to me, beyond the BD #2, their extended range doesn't make such a big difference anymore, but their weight does. So I went for DMM because they're just so much lighter. Beyond the DMM #4 I'm currently looking at RockEmpire Pulsars #6 and #7. But honestly, in the mid-range, I totally wouldn't want to do without my BDs. For the small sizes, I have Aliens.
However, on the last few alpine routes I've done (limestone that is), I didn't bring small or medium cams anymore at all. Nuts, the smallest three tricams (doubles), and the three largest DMM cams, that was all. Works well, is superlight, and I had no problems. But that's probably heavily dependant on where you climb.
Hope this helps,
Heiko
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dynamo_
Oct 12, 2006, 12:55 PM
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My cam rack goes as follows:
Metolius UL TCUs 00-2 (need to add the size 3 to get well into the 0.5 C4)
Black Diamond C4s 0.5-2
Wild Country Forged Friends 3.5 & 4
Yeah, it's mixed, but it was the best compromise of weight and functionality for me. I too feel that the expansion range of C4s over size 2 doesn't offset the higher weight over other cams. Further, size 3+ cracks in Forged Friends are generally, deep enough to sink the stem into...not always the case, but moreoften than not here in the SE.
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bill413
Oct 12, 2006, 1:37 PM
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Mismatched cams? Way to go. One benefit is it's easier to distinguish what size (or size range) you're grabbing - if you know the friends are all larger than the metolius', it makes it easy. It's when they overlap that I find it more of a pain.
2 ounces? Probably not significant....but if it helps your head, go for it.
Now, if we were talking about 85grams....
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j_ung
Oct 12, 2006, 2:35 PM
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My rack looks like a garage sale and I love it. Do what you need to do.
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tattooed_climber
Oct 12, 2006, 3:47 PM
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keep the forged friends dude.....extra gear never hurts...for those bomber splitter routes, and its not like you can sell used forged friends for alot or anything
my rack (cams) is mixed, old bd, c4 bd, metolius, dmm, aliens
dmm are super light and cheap...
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hosh
Oct 12, 2006, 3:57 PM
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I've got aliens up to the orange, a few zeros, BD's as follows: .3, .4, .75, 1, 2, 3, 4, 4.5, A #6 Tech Friend, forged friends from 2.5-4, metolius power cams from 7-10, plus passive gear and tri-cams. It's WAY more gear than I've ever needed, even for longer multi-pitch stuff. I always end up leaving stuff at home and even what I bring doesn't always get used.
Mixing brands is the way to go. I'm pretty big on it, I think it's better to have a few different kinds of cams on your rack simply because different brands have different strengths and weaknesses.
hosh.
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paganmonkeyboy
Oct 12, 2006, 4:04 PM
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Registered: Apr 30, 2003
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mix n match em - more versitile, more fun to play with, looks cool when talking to chicks (and its all about the chicks, man...)
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diophantus
Oct 12, 2006, 5:51 PM
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My rack is a collection of all sorts of crap, I don't mind and I actually kind of prefer it. Some times one brand of gear seems to work better than others for certain placements. My favorite pieces are my old Chouinard stoppers you can't get anymore, they are the best. I don't think 2 ounces is enough to matter when alpine climbing.
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cgranite
Oct 13, 2006, 4:02 AM
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With light gear in mind, I bought Metolius Cams.
They are all super light and very resistant to freezing.
I mixed Friends, Camalots, and Metolius FCU's/TCU's.
For long routes or routes with epic approaches, I would take what I called my light rack, which was a few friends and a complete set of Metolius cams.
-Look up the gear specs for Black Diamond, Wild Country, and Metolius.
Then Compare the wieght, color, and strength. Building is up to you from there.
I'm currently Selling 3 Metolius Power Cams if you or anyone is interested.
Just PM me.
-Red #4 Metolius Power Cam -has a tiny dimple on a lobe...only cosmetic
-Black #5 Metolius Power Cam
-Green # 6 Metolius Power Cam.
Reason: I have too many cams...Need shoes...no money
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builttospill
Oct 13, 2006, 5:58 AM
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Looks like the rack I'll go with then is Trango flex cams from 0.5 to 4, then metolius 5 and 6 and friends 3 and 4 (and probably 3.5 also).
The Trangos are already purchased (or I might have considered aliens), but we'll have to wait on the others until I can sell some old gear.
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jaybro
Oct 14, 2006, 9:47 PM
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Your choice will work if you believe it can. The real trick is the climbing.
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bkalaska
Oct 15, 2006, 1:05 AM
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I'm selling a #5 Met cam
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ctardi
Oct 15, 2006, 8:39 PM
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I always mix and match, get things covered better that way...
Off the top of my head:
Metolious TCU - 00-4
Metolious Power cam - 5
WC Tech Friends - 1-3, 4
BD Camalots (new) - 1 and 2
DMM FCU - 3.5
Maybe a couple others?
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wallrat63
Nov 9, 2006, 4:09 PM
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my rack is as follows:
full set of tech friends minus #6
full set of rocks plus doubles up to and including 6
full set of rockcentrics
given that i climb at the Gunks alot doubles of pink & red tricams plus blue, brown, orange and silver
it all comes down to just going out and climbing i can climb effectivly on mine or anyone elses rack. as long as there is a working knowlege of how the the gear fundamentally works it isnt hard to get used to new gear. besides using a "new" mixed rack adds a whole new degree of challenge even on routes that you have previously done.
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brutusofwyde
Nov 15, 2006, 11:47 PM
Post #18 of 36
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Short answer: Two ounces will make virtually no difference in rack weight, pack weight or what you are able to climb.
HOWEVER, if you select your rack, rope, harness, carabiners, slings, helmet, pack, and accessories with the minimum weight in mind, the weight savings can be substantial.
My lightweight rack consists of DMM Quads and Stregor Titanium cams down to #2, .5 and .75 Camalots, and Aliens in the smaller sizes.
Depending on the route, I often leave the larger cams behind, adding #5 and #6 Tricams.
ymmv, read the disclaimer, and don't fall, it's a big deal, you could die.
Brutus
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redlegrangerone
Nov 16, 2006, 12:25 AM
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Registered: Dec 21, 2005
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I followed a Gunks climber visiting out here in Arizona for a day. I have NEVER had to clean so many damn tricams in my life. The dude placed 5 of the damn things on one pitch.
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wallrat63
Nov 16, 2006, 12:52 AM
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once you start leading in the Gunks you will realize how key the pink and red tricams actually are.
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redlegrangerone
Nov 16, 2006, 12:57 AM
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That is true, but out here they are not as common. We do not have as many of those horizontal placements. But I have to admit there are times when they are just about the only things that will work.
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dynamo_
Nov 16, 2006, 2:48 AM
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In reply to: ...But I have to admit there are times when they are just about the only things that will work.
Bow to the power of the pink tricam!
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c4c
Nov 16, 2006, 2:52 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: ...But I have to admit there are times when they are just about the only things that will work. Bow to the power of the pink tricam! 
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drfelatio
Nov 16, 2006, 3:46 AM
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I'm just now starting to lead trad and my buddies have always suggested that I mix up my rack. Well, one, they want to be able to borrow my gear  and, two, different brands cover slightly different ranges. I guess with a mixed rack you have more overlap and less of a gap from one cam to the next. I currently have:
Forged Friends: 1.5, 1.75, 2, 2.5 (2), 3, and 4
Metolius TCU: 1-4
Metolius FCU: 6-8
Full set of stoppers
I would like to get (and if those with more experience could critique me here):
Forged Friend: 3.5
Metolius TCU: 0 (2), 1-4
Metolius FCU: 5
Some larger cams like BD 4 (?), 5-6
Another set of stoppers 4-13
Some of the larger hexes
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