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theicemoose
Oct 13, 2006, 3:37 AM
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[deep] Ok, I'm just going to put this out there-anyone know of any good limestone cliffs that are NOT chipped up? Posting from Las Vegas, it's hard to find an answer to that question here...I prefer natural routes, wilderness setting, no permadraws, lawn chairs, etc. Any ideas?
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rockguide
Oct 13, 2006, 4:20 AM
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The Canadian Rockies. Yes, we have our own legends-in-their-own-minds chippers, but by and large, you have natural lines.
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leapinlizard
Oct 13, 2006, 6:25 AM
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While it's sister crag has been chipped to hell (Jack's Canyon), The Pit in Flagstaff is a pretty fun limestone playground that hasn't been chipped all to hell.
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rrrADAM
Oct 13, 2006, 6:28 AM
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I found Shelf Road to fit this bill... My wife and I were only there for 3 days, but we loved it. We've climbed several Limestone cliffs other than there, and those didn't "fit the bill" you are asking for.
Why post this in Climbing History & Trivia though ???
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anykineclimb
Oct 13, 2006, 6:47 AM
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Shelf Road, CO
Anavarsa, Turkey
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delarig
Oct 13, 2006, 7:15 AM
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AF, UT
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theicemoose
Oct 14, 2006, 5:11 PM
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A friend mentioned that I should throw down the gauntlet if I wanted to get this thread moving. So here goes:
I've been on nice, natural limestone routes at Soul Asylum, Simeon Complex, and Gorilla Cliffs in St. George, The Ice House and the Gun Club in Vegas, and here and there on little choss piles on the Atlantic side of things. Looking forward to hearing about some more-good limestone is a gift and a pleasure, and being able to get on routes established by conscientious first ascentionists is a real bonus. Nothing like grabbing and matching on a solid natural edge and not seeing tooled out pockets right beside them as you clean a route after sending. Where else has good, all natural limestone routes?
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musicman
Oct 14, 2006, 5:48 PM
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AF has got some chipping and gluing, not a ton, but it's definitly there.
It's not exactly close to Vegas either.
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climbingaggie03
Oct 14, 2006, 6:55 PM
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Reimers Ranch in Austin, TX has good limestone climbs that haven't been chipped, but it's not really a destination crag like shelf road.
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vegastradguy
Oct 14, 2006, 7:24 PM
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with the exception of the really popular cliffs @ charleston, most of the limestone i've been on in Vegas is clean and natural, not to mention quite a few routes at Charleston as well.
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chossmonkey
Oct 15, 2006, 1:42 AM
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In reply to: The Pit in Flagstaff is a pretty fun limestone playground that hasn't been chipped all to hell.
Are you talking about Le Petit Verdon, aka "The Pit"?
Maybe you should be a little more observant.
In reply to: Pocketed sport routes and manufactured drilled routes have lead to the nickname "The Wash of the Bosch".
In reply to: Reimers Ranch in Austin, TX has good limestone climbs that haven't been chipped,
I can't remember if it is Reimers or another Austin crag, but Rock and Ice did an article quite a few years back hyping the Texas limestone. It drew a lot of criticism because of the manufacturing that was done on the routes.
Right or wrong there are a lot more chipped routes than most people realize.
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chossmonkey
Oct 15, 2006, 1:50 AM
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In reply to: Where else has good, all natural limestone routes?
Define "natural" most limestone cliffs require at least some cleaning, many require heavy cleaning.
In reply to: Why post this in Climbing History & Trivia though ???
Good question.
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fracture
Oct 15, 2006, 1:53 AM
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In reply to: I prefer natural routes, wilderness setting, no permadraws, lawn chairs, etc. Any ideas?
Yes: don't sport climb.
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fracture
Oct 15, 2006, 1:55 AM
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In reply to: Reimers Ranch in Austin, TX has good limestone climbs that haven't been chipped ...
Is this a joke?
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boadman
Oct 15, 2006, 5:07 AM
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What's the classic 13a with the big drilled pocket?
In reply to: Reimers Ranch in Austin, TX has good limestone climbs that haven't been chipped, but it's not really a destination crag like shelf road. |
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fracture
Oct 15, 2006, 5:47 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Reimers Ranch in Austin, TX has good limestone climbs that haven't been chipped, but it's not really a destination crag like shelf road. What's the classic 13a with the big drilled pocket?
My guess is you're thinking of House of Pain. Two drilled two finger pockets, a drilled three finger pocket, and another suspicious pocket that I don't know about for sure. ;)
It's been done eliminating the manufactured holds, by the way (Symbiosis, 5.13+).
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reno
Oct 18, 2006, 1:45 AM
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reno moved this thread from Climbing History & Trivia to Sport Climbing.
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redpoint73
Oct 18, 2006, 12:51 PM
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Potrero.
Might be some chipping here and there, but you will not notice it in the 1000+ feet of limestone you are climbing.
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socalbolter
Apr 30, 2007, 7:21 PM
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Why not revive another old thread.
You should check out The Homestead in Arizona. Over 125 sport routes on great quality limestone, with room for hundreds more. No chipping or gluing has gone on there.
The walls are not very pocketed, but are featured liberally. The Finland sections have more tufa than any other US limestone area I've seen.
Most routes are in the 11-13+ range.
There are several other, smaller limestone crags in the immediate area as well. I assume the ethics are the same there.
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