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kane_schutzman
Oct 17, 2006, 10:54 PM
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Hello,
It has been awhile since I posted in the Alpine section :cry: But I finally think I am ready to do it! Initially I came to this site knowing nothing, and to be honest I still know nothing about Alpine. All I have done to date is sport climbing, but I have all my gear and I ll be set in that aspect for years. Now my next battle, is going to be getting gear and ready to try Alpine. This is what I ultimately see myself doing. Now, since I got that out of the way, I ll get to the point of the post. Mainly I want to know what gear to buy and what NOT to buy. I would like to get High Quality gear the first time around, and I have no problem dropping lots of $ to get it right. Just look where I live :twisted: I havent a clue what Brand or Type of crampon I need, or what type of Pack I need. Any advice would be great.
I guess I should also add that want to attempt small climbs in CO, and hopefully Rainier in a year or so. Again, I really do not know what I am getting myself into...
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timm
Oct 17, 2006, 10:58 PM
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Are you wanting to do alpine rock climbs, mixed climbs, ice/gully climbs, or more mountaineering type climbs (ala Rainier) ?? All of which will have some common gear but some may need to be slightly different depending upon what climbs (other than Rainier) you have your eye on.
Cheers.
[edit] PS: Are you going to partner up with someone and do the climbs yourselves or are you going a guided-type climbs ??
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kane_schutzman
Oct 17, 2006, 11:02 PM
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I have tons of questions
Is there a certain brand boot that you favor? Why? and Plastic or Leather, I know this has been debated, and I guess I can search for that answer.
Do all crampons fit all boots? What is the best Boot/Crampone combination? I have been looking at the BD Sabortooth, or Grival looks like they have a nice selection.
Packs, what size is normal? Will I be fine with a normal hiking back or do I need pack MADE for Alpine moutaineering.
You can tell by my questions that I am new. I am not going to go out and climb Raineer Second day. I ll go with a NOLS Course... So please spare me.
Thanks!!!
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timm
Oct 17, 2006, 11:06 PM
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In reply to: I ll go with a NOLS Course... So please spare me. Thanks!!!
I would contact NOLS first and see what is on their recommended gear list. You can probably rent boots, crampons, axes, etc. Do Rainier and then re-evaluate if you like alpine climbing or not. If so, you can then have a better idea of what gear to get.
Oh, BTW, do you have tgreene's permission to go to Rainier :lol: ??
Cheers.
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kane_schutzman
Oct 17, 2006, 11:09 PM
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In reply to: Are you wanting to do alpine rock climbs, mixed climbs, ice/gully climbs, or more mountaineering type climbs (ala Rainier) ?? All of which will have some common gear but some may need to be slightly different depending upon what climbs (other than Rainier) you have your eye on. Cheers. [edit] PS: Are you going to partner up with someone and do the climbs yourselves or are you going a guided-type climbs ??
Timm
This was my next question. How specific does my gear need to be? Is one crampon good for one mountain, and not good for another? Yes, I will be going after Rainier when I get the experience, but I know there will be many climbs before this. Not sure what they will all be like. I did not see this post until after my last one. I think I will Have to have a Guide for my first time. Not many people are ok taking someone up that doesnt know anything.
Or, if you are wondering whether I will always have a guide. The answer is No. Maybe my first time or so I will, and take the Nols course. But after that, I will hook up with others.
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kane_schutzman
Oct 17, 2006, 11:13 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I ll go with a NOLS Course... So please spare me. Thanks!!! I would contact NOLS first and see what is on their recommended gear list. You can probably rent boots, crampons, axes, etc. Do Rainier and then re-evaluate if you like alpine climbing or not. If so, you can then have a better idea of what gear to get. Oh, BTW, do you have tgreene's permission to go to Rainier :lol: ?? Cheers.
HAHA,
Good one Timm,
I have been planning on taking the Nols Course since I first came to this forum, and got the information. I have been saving to pay for it and almost have enough, which is really why I am back on the Alpine Quest. SportClimbing is a good medium though. To be honest, I would like to have my own gear before the course, and Nols may not know whats best for me.
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anykineclimb
Oct 18, 2006, 5:51 AM
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Kane,
Like I mentioned in the previous thread here, check out the two AAI sites (american alpine institute and alpine ascents international) They both have checklists for various trips and even reccomended gear. Some of it is general type stuff like "crampons, 12 point, horizontal frame"
theres also good training info for "flatlanders" ;)
NOLS should also have a gear list. All these guys have been doing this stuff for a while and know what to reccomend for their courses.
In reply to: To be honest, I would like to have my own gear before the course, and Nols may not know whats best for me
LOL you crack me up! NOLS has a better idea whats best for you that YOU do.
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neurostar
Oct 22, 2006, 6:37 PM
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In reply to: Is one crampon good for one mountain, and not good for another?
You're generally gonna want two crampons. Hopping up Rainier might get tiring.
:twisted: :lol:
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chossmonkey
Oct 22, 2006, 7:13 PM
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In reply to: Is there a certain brand boot that you favor? Why? and Plastic or Leather, I know this has been debated, and I guess I can search for that answer.
Plastic is generally warmer than leather. But often won't climb as well. Plastic double boots are easier to dry out at night on multi-day climbs.
In reply to: Do all crampons fit all boots? What is the best Boot/Crampone combination? I have been looking at the BD Sabortooth, or Grival looks like they have a nice selection.
The Sabretooth would be an excellent choice for a first pair of crampons. They are a do all, and do it all quite well.
In reply to: Packs, what size is normal? Will I be fine with a normal hiking back or do I need pack MADE for Alpine moutaineering. |
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kane_schutzman
Oct 22, 2006, 7:47 PM
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Thanks alot for your replys,
For my pack, I am about to buy an Osprey Exposure 50. I like the fact that it was designed for alpine and not a trail. Its also fairly light, and I have not read one bad thing about Ospreys Packs. Do you have experience with them?
Crampons-Either SabreTooth, or Grivel G14 Crampons. Both seem to be fairly high end, but that is how I like my equipment. Is one better then then other? The Grival comes with the Plates. How necessary is it to have them? This will be something else to purchase if I get the BD Sabretooth.
I am buying this stuff one at a time, slowely. Worked when buying sport gear 8^)
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reno
Oct 22, 2006, 8:23 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Is one crampon good for one mountain, and not good for another? You're generally gonna want two crampons. Hopping up Rainier might get tiring.
Trophy post, neurostar. :lol:
My alpine setup: (FYI, those with an asterisk are "as needed for that climb" items.)
~ La Sportiva's Trango Ice Evo boots (or North Face approach hiking shoes, depending on temperature.)
~ BD Blizzard harness
~ SMALL rack of pro: set of stoppers, first three Tri-Cams, four hexes, and a half-dozen slings/biners.
~ Arc Teryx Bora 40 pack
~ Rain shell (pants, too)
~ Softshell jacket
~ Gloves, hat, extra fleece jacket if it gets cold. More layers depending on weather.
*Trango Harpoon crampons (although I would like to get some flexible frame crampons.)
* Grivel Helix ice screws
* Petzl Quark ice tools
* Avy gear: Beacon, shovel, probes.
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chossmonkey
Oct 22, 2006, 8:47 PM
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In reply to: Crampons-Either SabreTooth, or Grivel G14 Crampons. Both seem to be fairly high end, but that is how I like my equipment. Is one better then then other? The Grival comes with the Plates. How necessary is it to have them? This will be something else to purchase if I get the BD Sabretooth.
Get the G14's if you only plan to only climb ice. The Sabretooth's are a better all around crampon.
The big difference is in the frontpoints. The horizontal FP generally works better for snow and bad ice.
The Sabretooths should come with the anti-balling plates now. In the past they didn't.
http://www.grivel.com/
http://www.bdel.com/...bretooth_step-in.php
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jimdavis
Oct 23, 2006, 3:51 AM
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If you take a picture of your foot and send it in to this thread....we might be able to size you up for some ice climbing boots. :roll:
Jim
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