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shaunfink
Jul 7, 2006, 8:51 PM
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Registered: Oct 25, 2005
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Hey all..
I've recently started bouldering and would like some tips or advice on gear and technique... Can anyone help me out here?
Cheers
Shaun
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chrisparedes
Jul 7, 2006, 9:07 PM
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Registered: Aug 4, 2004
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Hm, bouldering gear? Shoes, chalk, pad; that's about it. Tips? If it is your first time bouldering, most problems, even "easy" problems may feel next to impossible, but don't worry about that. The fun of bouldering comes from the challenge. I would focus on making precise foot movements and even more precise body positioning. Think about your hips, how you can rotate them or bring them in closer to the rock to gain a better position. Even if you can only do one move, your already getting better because it will take a while for you to develop the proper muscle memory to climb though hard moves. Most importantly, find some energetic people to climb with who can give you constructive advice and will not intimidate you because of your bouldering inexperience. Good luck and have fun.
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nevenneve
Jul 7, 2006, 9:18 PM
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Registered: Jul 15, 2004
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Beanie, calluses, ADD(?), seriously changing your mental game to reflect attempting overly powerful movement across short spans of rock. Try some severely overhung jug fests for a start. Basically if you feel your overall endurance dropping your heading in the right direction.
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paganmonkeyboy
Jul 7, 2006, 9:21 PM
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Registered: Apr 30, 2003
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In reply to: Most importantly, find some energetic people to climb with who can give you constructive advice and will not intimidate you because of your bouldering inexperience. Good luck and have fun.
best advice ever....
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styndall
Jul 7, 2006, 9:50 PM
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Registered: May 29, 2002
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Get used to falling. Accept it. Expect it. You'll be doing a lot of it.
Plan your landings. Rolling an ankle is no fun.
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sick_climba
Jul 9, 2006, 3:52 AM
Post #6 of 21
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Registered: Apr 1, 2005
Posts: 508
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In reply to: Hm, bouldering gear? Shoes, chalk, pad; that's about it. Tips? If it is your first time bouldering, most problems, even "easy" problems may feel next to impossible, but don't worry about that. The fun of bouldering comes from the challenge. I would focus on making precise foot movements and even more precise body positioning. Think about your hips, how you can rotate them or bring them in closer to the rock to gain a better position. Even if you can only do one move, your already getting better because it will take a while for you to develop the proper muscle memory to climb though hard moves. Most importantly, find some energetic people to climb with who can give you constructive advice and will not intimidate you because of your bouldering inexperience. Good luck and have fun. |
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superbum
Jul 9, 2006, 6:27 AM
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Registered: Sep 19, 2002
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REST! you will get buff. that's a fact. but if you REST you will get buffer.
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shaunfink
Jul 15, 2006, 3:41 PM
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Registered: Oct 25, 2005
Posts: 8
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Guys, this is awesome advice.... I do see bouldering as alot of fun... It definately seems that it should not be too serious though, coz when I went for the first time in Nelspruit with a mate of mine, we had the best laugh i've ever had. It was awesome.
Gear I can see is important. Any advice on the gear, such as brands and the likes?
Where would I find partners to climb with, and where's a good place to start looking?
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curtis_g
Jul 15, 2006, 4:29 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2005
Posts: 594
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In reply to: Where would I find partners to climb with, and where's a good place to start looking?
this site is a start...
or your local gym.
as far as gear advice goes...you could find, on this site, a person to recommend any piece of gear ever produced. look to your partner or local gym or gear shop for advice on gear...not rc.com. come back to rc.com when you know what you want and want to buy it second hand (I've had great success with that).
That being said, here is my very general gear advice:
Get a cheap pad but not too cheap that it sucks. Get cheap shoes (they're your first pair and you'll tear into them), but don't go too cheap because you need them comfortable. get shoes that fit yoru foot not your friend's. and get any chalk bag you want. for only bouldering you can get a bucket, but I still like personal bags because I hardly ever boulder and when I do it is on a stranger's pad.
In summary find a partner (rc.com, gym, local bouldering spot), borrow some stuff, as to try others' pads, try on A LOT of shoes, and get something that holds chalk.
- Curtis
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egonogo
Jul 15, 2006, 4:30 PM
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Registered: Mar 31, 2006
Posts: 37
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DO NOT BE AFRAID TO TALK TO PEOPLE. The best way to get better is to climb with stronger people then you. As long as they aren't jerks, most people are happy to help someone with a technique tip, spot, or just work with you.
For the first month I bouldered I didn't talk to anybody, didn't ask for help. I only developed bad habbits, and terrible skill. Then when I started climbing with people, I made more progress in a week than I had made in the entire month of me climbing by myself.
I climb at about a v2-3 level, yet I climb with v5-8 level climbers and its still fun as hell!!!
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curtis_g
Jul 15, 2006, 4:30 PM
Post #11 of 21
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Registered: Nov 21, 2005
Posts: 594
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In reply to: Where would I find partners to climb with, and where's a good place to start looking?
this site is a start...
or your local gym.
as far as gear advice goes...you could find, on this site, a person to recommend any piece of gear ever produced. look to your partner or local gym or gear shop for advice on gear...not rc.com. come back to rc.com when you know what you want and want to buy it second hand (I've had great success with that).
That being said, here is my very general gear advice:
Get a cheap pad but not too cheap that it sucks. Get cheap shoes (they're your first pair and you'll tear into them), but don't go too cheap because you need them comfortable. get shoes that fit yoru foot not your friend's. and get any chalk bag you want. for only bouldering you can get a bucket, but I still like personal bags because I hardly ever boulder and when I do it is on a stranger's pad.
In summary find a partner (rc.com, gym, local bouldering spot), borrow some stuff, as to try others' pads, try on A LOT of shoes, and get something that holds chalk.
- Curtis
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whitribj
Jul 21, 2006, 7:24 PM
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Registered: Jun 16, 2006
Posts: 145
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egonogo,
nice job splitting up the double post! :righton:
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edl
Aug 2, 2006, 7:59 AM
Post #13 of 21
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Registered: Feb 26, 2004
Posts: 134
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I would also highly recommend reading Better Bouldering by John Sherman. I found this to be an excellent resource when I was first getting into bouldering. It helped teach me things like spotting and how to fall correctly. It's also a good read.
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hugin
Aug 3, 2006, 5:27 PM
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Registered: Mar 1, 2006
Posts: 240
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In reply to: I would also highly recommend reading Better Bouldering by John Sherman. I found this to be an excellent resource when I was first getting into bouldering. It helped teach me things like spotting and how to fall correctly. It's also a good read.
Odd. A book never taught me how to fall right.
Falling has taught me how to fall right. You're not going to develop the right instincts by reading a book. So - start simple, and easy, and don't be afraid to fall. Don't get yourself into difficult positions until you're good at falling (you know - that heel hook at hip level around a corner with your other foot on some sketchy slick hold a couple of feel lower and a couple of bizarre crimpers for hands - you WILL fall on your head from positions like that if you don't have the right instincts).
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lucrativ
Aug 3, 2006, 6:04 PM
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Registered: Jul 31, 2006
Posts: 11
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Slippers , a pad and a little chalk . (And) Document it with whatever you have . Bouldering is an expedition of absolute efficiency : the less (within reason) the better .
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thespider
Aug 3, 2006, 6:47 PM
Post #16 of 21
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 471
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I like to take a piece of carpet or rug to brush my shoes off before climbing. Also, this may be obvious, but take some water!
Watch your feet, bouldering is a great place to work on footwork.
Most of all have fun, you will learn more and return often when you have fun.
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climburr
Oct 19, 2006, 4:09 PM
Post #17 of 21
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Registered: Oct 18, 2006
Posts: 10
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A crash pad was the best investment my friends and I have ever made. Can't stop falling, so might as well make it hurt a little less.
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chalker7
Oct 19, 2006, 4:46 PM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2003
Posts: 317
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I would suggest getting out while you still can....it's not too late. Then once you escape, go learn to lead trad, or atleast sport if nothing else. You'll like it, I promise.
Peace.
Colby.
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krusher4
Oct 19, 2006, 6:23 PM
Post #19 of 21
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Registered: Nov 17, 2005
Posts: 997
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I didn't boulder for my frist 5 years of climbing, so when I see folks get into this sport though bouldering I have to give them props. You have no strengh for the movements V0 is damn hard it could be up to a 5.10 route in difficulty, for lots of climbers that's there top line of difficulty and that is the line where you start. Again lots of falling 95% failer rate, at least!
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gunksjunky88
Oct 20, 2006, 6:28 AM
Post #20 of 21
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Registered: Oct 17, 2006
Posts: 22
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i think the biggest thing for me when i started bouldering was that i was climbing with guys that were a thousand times better than me... but they thought it was super cool that i was getting into it and helped me a whole lot. the most important thing they tought me was to be "static" and not "dynamic" as much as possible. most problems include an incredibly difficult crux... so saving your energy for that move and also ensuring that you have enough energy after it to finish the problem is crucial. be fluid and relax all parts of your body that you aren't using to stay on the rock.
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gunkiemike
Oct 20, 2006, 10:25 AM
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Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266
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Two things:
Listen to your body. If you try as hard as you can often enough, you're going to develop some connective tissue injury. Treat that properly when it starts, not when it becomes so bad you can't climb through the pain.
Don't fall into the common boulderer mindset that "if I can't stick the hold, I must need more chalk on it". Chalk overuse is a big problem I see. People are chalking the route, their shoes, you name it. And for god's sake, brush the stuff off the holds when you're done!
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