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bitchslabbin
Oct 16, 2006, 6:58 AM
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Registered: Sep 25, 2006
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i did my first trad lead this summer, and I almost walked away and straight into a church. (lol) actually this was my second the first was very short and super easy to place gear it was a 10- and i probably stuffed in like 15 pieces, But the second one didnt go so well, It was on the chief in squamish on a route called rock on. I led the first pitch which is 40m of 5.8. and every pice i placed was shit and I knew it. I came into a lie back and did not want to stop to place anything so I just kept going seeing the next face move way ahead. If I fell from there I would have hit the deck for sure. When I finally got to this little ledge to build a gear anchor.All I had left was wires, and there was n owhere to place them. I strung a sling around a tree root and a little shaggy tree, I thank god for that tree. It literally saved my ass. I dont think I had ever been happier to end a route. I second the next four pitches. But let me say I;m definatly going to do it again. But this time with a clearer head for gear placement.
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hosh
Oct 16, 2006, 7:36 AM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
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how long have you been climbing for? do you climb with consistent partners who are experienced? might want to cool it if you're on routes with bad gear and a sure thing ground fall if you blow a smear or something, the clean up would suck. I'm excited for you and first trad leads are a once in a life time high, but please be careful from here on out if you're gonna be plugin' gear!
hosh. (cares for your safety...)
Don't let the minimalism interfere with the gear fetish if you're new to trad...
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epoch
Moderator
Oct 16, 2006, 11:50 AM
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Registered: Apr 28, 2005
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Congrats on the lead.
There are leads that I do where I still feel totally sketched at the end of the pitch. I liken it to one of the great things of trad. I like climbing in the 10 range, howver there are still some .7s and .8s that can get the pucker going and it does feel wonderful to have that tree or horn at the end to have that sense of security. Unlike bolted climbs, the joy that I get out of trad climbing is that no climb is the same, even if you have your favorite climb and have it "wired" it can climb different with different pro each time. As you become more comfortable about the grade and climbing, you'll learn to trust your gear and be able to use it effiecently. It takes expierence. Good job!! Try that climb again and see if you use less and/or differently.
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notapplicable
Oct 16, 2006, 2:43 PM
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
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That first real gear lead (and you were right to call this one your first) is one of those things in life you don't usually forget. Some come out the other side totally sketched and don't appreciate the experience and for others (myself included) they have just found there home within the vertical world. I clip bolts or climb over boulders just as often as I plug gear but I'm a trad climber at the core, it is (for me) the place from which I engage this sport. It sounds like you may have had one of those experiences that allows you to better understand your relationship with your passion, congratulations. Now all you have to do is temper that passion just enough to keep yourself alive so that you can fully explore it. Try and remember that the experience you had (run out and scared with the possibility of decking) should be the sparsely used gravy, not the meat and potatoes of the trad experience. Happy climbing, your lucky to have convenient access to a venue like the Chief, enjoy it.
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blueeyedclimber
Oct 19, 2006, 11:45 PM
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bitchslabbin,
congrats on your first lead! BUT...Dont be afraid to take it slow. CLimb long enough, and running it out risking a bad fall may be something you have to do from time to time. Don't make a habit of it, and you should not be doing it as a new leader. What you should be concentrating on is gear placement, rope management, route finding and building anchors. Climbing is secondary. Never push your technical abilities, mental abilities, and your physical abilities at the same time.
BTW, Rock On is a great route. My wife and I did it this summer. Squamish is fantastic and I am supremely jealous of anyone who lives there.
Josh
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the_climber
Oct 20, 2006, 12:24 AM
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
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Hehehe, reminds me of what I remember most of my fist few trad leads... It's not what you would think though. My experiance that I remember from the first few "real" trad leads can only be fully understood with the benifit of "hindsight" and "what I know know". So cut the BS and say it :!: What I remember most about my early trad leads is how much I didn't know and how thankfull I am that I didn't fall :lol: :shock: :lol:
Congrats on the fist Real lead!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just remember, what you know now is a fraction of what you will know in years to come. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS remember that the learning curve with trad never stops and that it will take you places no other style of climbing can. Climb lots climb often and place as many peices of gear as you can for the first bit.
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kobaz
Oct 20, 2006, 1:38 AM
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Registered: Sep 19, 2004
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I'm wondering why no one has said this yet... but... First and second trad leads on 5.10 and 5.8? Even if you onsite 5.13 sport you should get in some trad mileage on easier routes.
Be safe.
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blueeyedclimber
Oct 20, 2006, 9:09 PM
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In reply to: I'm wondering why no one has said this yet... but... First and second trad leads on 5.10 and 5.8? Even if you onsite 5.13 sport you should get in some trad mileage on easier routes. Be safe.
That is basically what I was saying 8^)
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kobaz
Oct 21, 2006, 5:12 AM
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Registered: Sep 19, 2004
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Oh yeah, hmm. I was pretty tired when I wrote my reply, hehe.
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