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p0bray01
Oct 19, 2006, 1:24 AM
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Hey I was not sure where to post this but I have looked on this site for a little while and could not find anything about rack beta for a trip to Seneca Rocks WV .
Other than multiple sets of rain gear ;) Will this rack suffice for a trip to seneca?
1 set of BD camalots to #4
TCU's 2, 3, 4
Double sets of BD nuts to #15.
I can also get a few power cams I believe (#4,6?) from a buddy. I have been doing mostly single pitch stuff so far with the occasional two pitch chimney runout route. If this is not sufficient can anyone reccomend some other pro?
Thanks! :D
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tradmanclimbs
Oct 19, 2006, 1:56 AM
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that should be fine if you have pleanty of slings to go with the gear and you know how to use everything? Most of the routs in the book that have a star have good gear placements but the grades of all the easier climbs are sandbaged so be conservative with your rout choices untill you get the hang of the place. good luck...
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notapplicable
Oct 19, 2006, 2:09 AM
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You should be fine with the rack that you have, some medium size hexes may come in handy but aren't necessary. Bring lots of slings (quick draws are often of limited use) and come prepared to build your own gear belays, I usually bring two lengths of webbing or cordlett so I have one at the beginning and end of each pitch (make your second carry one and take it from him/her before you start the next pitch). Most of the time you will be placing medium and smaller sized gear but I always take one or two larger pieces with me even if the route doesn't look like you will need it. Other than that TAKE A HEAD LIGHT and WEAR YOUR HELMET, there is alot of loose rock on the various ledges and it is often getting kicked down. :shock: A camel pack is nice if you travel slow but you can also stash food and water on luncheon ledge and fuel up between routes. Two ropes are also very handy for rapping from the summit but you can get down with one or bum raps off of other parties. Other than your rack and rope the two most important pieces of gear to remember is the lamp and helmet, more than half of my days at Seneca have ended after dark if you forget it you will regret it. :D Have fun climbing, Seneca is a great venue.
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climboard
Oct 19, 2006, 3:42 AM
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That should be plenty for Seneca. You probably don't need two full sets of nuts, maybe just double up in size 6-10. I find the two smallest tricams useful there.
I am not sure what you plan on climbing but a set of micronuts comes in handy on some of the thinner climbs.
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cragmasterp
Oct 19, 2006, 3:47 AM
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you've got plenty of gear for seneca. or most any crag in WVa. bring lots of shoulder length slings and biners.
we used to lead routes at seneca with a set of stoppers and a few hexes back in the day. still remember when we got our first cam and took it to seneca to test it out on THe Burn. of course, we had already done the burn without cams.
a few smaller lowe tricams can be good to carry as well.
just stay within limits and enjoy!
or get in over your head, and leave a fat bail station for the booty patrol to nab! either way, get down safe.
peace
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yekcir
Oct 19, 2006, 4:26 AM
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Registered: Feb 21, 2005
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You may want to bring a #11 hex and a pink and red tricam with you. I climb Seneca a bit and found these to be gold. A helmet, and maybe a cordalette would be useful too. Have fun!
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p0bray01
Oct 19, 2006, 1:51 PM
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Thanks for the help. Yeah I do know how to place all that I have well. I dont have a ny experience with Tricams but many people like em so I may pick up a couple to give them a try. Ok one other thing, chances are I will be bringing someone fairly new to climbing. I noticed on the other pages there was a guidebook but I have looked everywhere online and can't find it. Are there any routes that you would suggest to try first? I saw that some people suggested old man route? I appreciate all the help! :D
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svilnit
Oct 19, 2006, 2:04 PM
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In reply to: Thanks for the help. Yeah I do know how to place all that I have well. I dont have a ny experience with Tricams but many people like em so I may pick up a couple to give them a try. Ok one other thing, chances are I will be bringing someone fairly new to climbing. I noticed on the other pages there was a guidebook but I have looked everywhere online and can't find it. Are there any routes that you would suggest to try first? I saw that some people suggested old man route? I appreciate all the help! :D
Tricams are nice, but weren't used there. #2 & #3 C4's are especially helpful. Conn's West was a nice route that wasn't too hard. Remember the grades at Seneca are a bit sandbagged...
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microbarn
Oct 19, 2006, 2:20 PM
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If you are taking someone new, go up Old Man's.
Old Lady's is easier, but has a lot of exposure. So, it is scarier for a follower. Also, the crux of Old Lady's is odd. It puts the FOLLOWER above the gear that is protecting them. Make sure you protect the follower. It is a good second route.
I am not an experienced Seneca leader, but I have found a place for the pink tricam on every pitch I led there. So, that would be my most recommended piece to get.
Pick up the guidebook at the Gendarme when you arrive.
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bootlegger
Oct 20, 2006, 1:53 AM
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Old Man's route is the best for easing a beginner into Seneca rock and exposure. Skyline Traverse is another popular easy route with some nice exposure at the start of the second pitch. Just be careful not to knock loose rock down on climbers below you. Ecstasy Jr was another nice "introductory" route for Seneca. As you get used to the exposure, be sure to do Gunsight to South Peak (gotta be one of the scarier 5.4's east of the Mississippi - easy climbing, just real exposed). LeGourmet / Front C is another great moderate route. We didn't get to Conns East or Conns West, but both are highly recommended.
Ditto the advice above about rack, helmet, headlamp. The place just eats passive gear. If you're not used to making your own gear belays, or you have a slow second, take water up with you - for a whole variety of reasons, you can end up being on that rock for a long time before you get down.
One other suggestion: the new guidebook has a page or two that describes all the rappel routes to get down. Photocopy those pages and take them with you! They're very helpful for the first time Seneca climber. In big bold letters on the sign as you come up the trail, "Spending the night on the rock does not constitute an emergency."
Oh yeah, route finding can be a bit tricky. Fortunately there's usually people around to ask. It's a fabulous place to climb. Enjoy!
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bootlegger
Oct 20, 2006, 1:54 AM
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Almost forgot.....I got a lot of use out of my tricams while there.
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p0bray01
Oct 20, 2006, 2:42 AM
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Thanks for the info! I picked up the guidebook...and i may pick up
some tricams as well...especially the pink one. Great to hear it eats passive gear!
Any other info will be appareciated!
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hyhuu
Oct 20, 2006, 12:26 PM
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If you climb some of the 5.10s and easy 5.11 there, micronuts are highly recommended. The smaller tri-cams can be used there but they are not needed. The same can be said for the #4 Cam.
hyhuu
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markc
Oct 20, 2006, 1:59 PM
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In reply to: Old Man's route is the best for easing a beginner into Seneca rock and exposure. Skyline Traverse is another popular easy route with some nice exposure at the start of the second pitch. Just be careful not to knock loose rock down on climbers below you. Ecstasy Jr was another nice "introductory" route for Seneca. As you get used to the exposure, be sure to do Gunsight to South Peak (gotta be one of the scarier 5.4's east of the Mississippi - easy climbing, just real exposed). LeGourmet / Front C is another great moderate route. We didn't get to Conns East or Conns West, but both are highly recommended. Ditto the advice above about rack, helmet, headlamp. The place just eats passive gear. If you're not used to making your own gear belays, or you have a slow second, take water up with you - for a whole variety of reasons, you can end up being on that rock for a long time before you get down. One other suggestion: the new guidebook has a page or two that describes all the rappel routes to get down. Photocopy those pages and take them with you! They're very helpful for the first time Seneca climber. In big bold letters on the sign as you come up the trail, "Spending the night on the rock does not constitute an emergency." Oh yeah, route finding can be a bit tricky. Fortunately there's usually people around to ask. It's a fabulous place to climb. Enjoy!
All good route suggestions and good advice. One really nice link-up is to start at Skyline Traverse (although you can start at Candy Corner and link up with Skyline's second pitch if you want a harder start). The end of Skyline leaves you at Broadway Ledge. Move north under the cockscomb and climb A Christian Delight. From there, you can link up with the second pitch of Old Lady's and either finish on Old Lady's or Windy Corner. Then you can scamper up and enjoy the view from the south summit.
It's good to plan on the descent taking a while. There aren't a ton of established rappels and it's not unusual for lines to form on busy days. This can be a spectacular time for climbing at Seneca, but it is less forgiving than summer. Bringing an extra layer and having rain gear can be a very good idea. I haven't always climbed with a lid at Seneca, but I have always carried my headlamp. I'd recommend both. Have fun.
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svilnit
Oct 20, 2006, 2:50 PM
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Wow, no helmet at Seneca... I would have split my wig for sure if I hadn't worn one.
Ditto that on waiting at the rap stations though. We were the 1st ones at the summit the last time we went. We diddled around for a while at the top, by the time we were ready to head down we were the 3rd group in line. That took quite a while.
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davidbr
Oct 20, 2006, 3:21 PM
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A couple more suggestions:
Ifyou start up Old Man's, you can take a more direct variation (Conn's West Direct, 5.4 or 5.5). It's a nice line,and brings you up right under the tree you can use for a single rope rappel off that side.
The only extra rack advice i'd add is that if you're thinking of Soler, you need huge pro (Big Bor?) to protect the first pitch. And I like to along a couple of screamers to use on the pitons you'll find all over the place.
Enjoy!
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davidbr
Oct 20, 2006, 3:22 PM
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A couple more suggestions:
Ifyou start up Old Man's, you can take a more direct variation (Conn's West Direct, 5.4 or 5.5). It's a nice line,and brings you up right under the tree you can use for a single rope rappel off that side.
The only extra rack advice i'd add is that if you're thinking of Soler, you need huge pro (Big Bor?) to protect the first pitch. And I like to along a couple of screamers to use on the pitons you'll find all over the place.
Enjoy!
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svilnit
Oct 20, 2006, 3:27 PM
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In reply to: A couple more suggestions: Ifyou start up Old Man's, you can take a more direct variation (Conn's West Direct, 5.4 or 5.5). It's a nice line,and brings you up right under the tree you can use for a single rope rappel off that side. The only extra rack advice i'd add is that if you're thinking of Soler, you need huge pro (Big Bor?) to protect the first pitch. And I like to along a couple of screamers to use on the pitons you'll find all over the place. Enjoy!
They put in a couple of brand new bolts just to the left of that tree (if you are facing the cliff).
Don't get off route on Conn's West, there is a nasty crack to climb there if you do.. I guess that would be Conn's West indirect then huh?
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p0bray01
Oct 20, 2006, 6:55 PM
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Wow I appreciate all the beta! Yeah my newbie friends wont even think of 5.10's yet in sport nonetheless trad! PLUS I don't know if I want to "haul" them up the route! Waiting in line for rappel...thats a new one to me. Oh well maybe we can catch it on a less than busy day. Just curious what route takes you to the highest summit?
Thanks again. :)
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bootlegger
Oct 20, 2006, 7:07 PM
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The highest summit is actually on the North peak, but I wouldn't recommend it. Neither the rock nor the moderate routes on the North peak are very good. The South peak is where all the routes described above are located, and where the classic climbs are. Most of the routes/linkups above will get you to the South summit (Old Man's, Old Ladies, Gunsight to South Peak, etc). There's a summit register there... be sure to sign it and get pictures!
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bobruef
Oct 20, 2006, 7:08 PM
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South Peak, is the highest peak accesable by 5th class climing, and would be the one you want to hit. A ton of stuff takes you to the summit ledge, where it is just a short scrambel onto the summit propper. I'll put in a reccomendation for 1st pitch of Le Gourmet to Front C to Critter Crack (5.4, 5.6, 5.6 respectively). That puts you on the Summit Ledge. Dirty Old Man's on the east face and will put you up there. Thais, Greenwall, Pleasant Overhangs, are great too, and put you up there. The last two of those are 5.7, and I'd suggest breaking yourselves in on something 5.5 or lower to get used to the ratings. You'll find the Seneca 5.7's can tend to be pretty exciting. Skyline Traverse (5.3) to Dirty Old Man (5.6) would be a great 5 pitch link-up that would put you on the Summit. I'd reccomend hitting Skyline early though, as there's always someone on it.
Taking Skyline or Extacy Jr (5.4) also have the bennefit of letting you skip the stairmaster (approach), and put you within a short walk of most of the good stuff.
Have fun!
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