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getdownfromthere
Oct 21, 2006, 6:46 PM
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Registered: Jan 9, 2003
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I was belaying a friend on a route, and, when he got to the top, he looked over at a climber who had just topped out nearby, and could see that the guy was about to lower off. This guy had led the climb, untied the rope, then tied back into the rope in order to be lowered off. The only problem was, he didn't run the rope through the d-ring!! So he was about to undo his safety and lower off (but actually plunge to the ground). My friend said, "Before you undo your safety, take a look at how you've set yourself up." The guy took about 30 seconds to figure it out.
He was obviously really tired from the climb he'd just done, but this is when you REALLY need to double check yourself!!
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jcrew
Oct 21, 2006, 7:33 PM
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Registered: May 11, 2006
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this could re-start the heated debate of lowering vs. rapping, and lowering from fixed anchors.
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andrewbanandrew
Oct 21, 2006, 7:50 PM
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wait assuming he led the climb he wouldn't have 'plunged to the ground' just taken a lead fall onto the topmost draw?
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htotsu
Oct 21, 2006, 11:15 PM
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Glad your friend spoke up!
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getdownfromthere
Oct 22, 2006, 7:29 AM
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Yes, you're right about only falling past the last bolt-- but I still wouldn't want to be him!
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chossmonkey
Oct 22, 2006, 9:10 PM
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
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In reply to: wait assuming he led the climb he wouldn't have 'plunged to the ground' just taken a lead fall onto the topmost draw?
Kinda what I was thinking.
Likely the climber would have felt the belayer pulling down rather than up when they put him on tension so he could unhook from the anchor.
Still it is something to think about. Especially when cleaning a TR on a bolt anchor.
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