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timpanogos
Sep 10, 2002, 5:54 PM
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Ok, went to City of the Rocks last week-end, and got spanked again on the friction climbs. Got Spanked with Alpinerocket on Perhaps in LCC just before this. Any tips on Friction climbs -
Most of my problem seems to be mental - no hands - how can you trust no feet also? Any suggestions on getting on the stuff, and staying there
Scrapped knees
Chad
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radistrad
Sep 10, 2002, 6:22 PM
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keep your weight over your feet, watch each foot hold until your on it.
If you lean to far into the rock your feet will skip out back wards, if you lean to far back you'll tumble.
I can not stress any thing more than "use your feet", when you smear that foot straighten the leg (stand up on it).
And ofcourse pratice, pratice, pratice...
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billcoe_
Sep 10, 2002, 6:44 PM
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Are you paying for these spankings and who's the young lady?
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k9rocko
Sep 10, 2002, 6:48 PM
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straight on for you??
That was my recommendation, sorry!!!!
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boz84
Sep 10, 2002, 6:55 PM
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You need to imagine that the more weight that you ccan put on the rock through the rubber of your shoes, the more friction you are going to create, thus making you stick to the rock.
Get your butt out, as was already explained. This puts force towards and against the rock. Similar to when you are rapelling, if when you are rapelling, you stop leaning back, your feet will slip, because you have stoped putting force againstthe rock face. SO basically, you should always be pushing against the rock and down at the same time.
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billcoe_
Sep 10, 2002, 7:10 PM
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OPPS: Thought that title said "fiction" as in "Spanked again - Fiction", not Friction.
As Emily Lattella used to say:
......nevermind.
BTW: take smaller steps, in addition to what has been said previously. It's all about balance and practice.
Bill
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dynov7
Sep 10, 2002, 9:20 PM
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Heres the deal. You want to stay as "under" the hold as possible and dont overgrip, that is, put more pressure on the hold than is needed. Some people try to yard down on the hold as much as they can...let the hold be ur friend Overgripping not only can throw you off of the wall but also contributes to getting pumped alot quicker. And like the others said, use your feet as best you can. Goodluck
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qacwac
Sep 11, 2002, 2:13 PM
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I found you comment particularly helpful boz84.
I knew to do that but had never really thought out why. Thanks
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climbinganne
Sep 11, 2002, 2:25 PM
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hmmmmmm.......spanked by alpinerocket...gosh he must not love me as much as you!!!!
did he use his rope, a sling or a leather belt??
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timpanogos
Sep 11, 2002, 5:07 PM
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Well Anne,
This is a bit personal, and being the shy person that I am, I'd rather not say ... but it was really irritating that he keep calling out your name while spanking me!
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ergophobe
Sep 11, 2002, 5:33 PM
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Some things I find useful
1. Feel for holds. On "hard" friction, feel for footholds as well as looking for them. Move your hand over the rock and take in info that way. Often the best looking holds aren't great and the holds that feel the most positive are nearly invisible.
2. Practice climbing with your eyes closed. Even doing this on non-friction toprope routes in the gym will help you sense body position and equilibrium that you can translate to friction climbing.
3. Take small bites. Don't overreach with your hands or your feet. The key to friction climbing is staying in balance and big moves tend to get you out of balance. When the holds are good, of course, do the biggest moves you can. But often making an intermediate move on bad holds is good.
4. Don't mess up your balance by reaching too high to clip. Carry at least one long sling. If you're scared and you can reach the bolt, but balance is bad, clip it long so you don't have to lift the rope (adds slack and throws you off balance). When you get into better balance or a better position, you can shorten it up. I learned this by taking a 35-footer. You can learn this by reading this message!
5. If things feel positive, take your time and think things through. Treat it as a meditation. If you stay calm, relaxed and centered, your legs will not shake and, believe it or not, your hands will sweat less..
6. If things are not positive, keep moving. On "hard" friction, you may go a long distance where you are slowly "falling" the whole time. The key is to get your weight off the sliding foot and on to the new foot before complete failure.
7. Mantles. Look for mantles. A lot of friction climbing will be done without much use of the fingertips and you can get huge distance out of a nice mantle.
I should be able to think of more, but that should do for starters...
Tom
[ This Message was edited by: ergophobe on 2002-09-11 10:35 ]
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astone
Sep 11, 2002, 5:49 PM
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Move quickly, smoothly and deliberately.
Wear a helmet.
Friction climbing is a religion that believes in rubber.
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rocknpowda
Sep 11, 2002, 6:09 PM
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Always look down, look for dishes and nubs for your feet-there are holds there, they are just significantly smaller than you're used to. Keep your heels low and try to get all of your shoe on the rock all the way down to the ball of your foot-don't edge when your slab climbing. Transfer your weight smoothly from the foot your standing on to the foot your stepping onto as smoothly as possible.
Don't climb slabs in the rain.
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overlord
Sep 11, 2002, 9:34 PM
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i hate friction
CLIMB ON
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ergophobe
Sep 12, 2002, 8:04 PM
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Remember the #1 rule for training - you must focus on the exercise you like the least, because it is probably your weakest area. Be careful, though, this could lead to things much less pleasant than friction, like climbing squeeze chimneys.
Tom
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