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Partially Ripped Screamers
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mountainmonkey


Sep 10, 2002, 1:00 PM
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Partially Ripped Screamers
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I fell the other day on a pin w/ a screamer. It was a short fall (4m) and it ripped only a couple of the stitches of the screamer. The way I see it is that it might activate at lower loads and therefore rip more but it will still absorb some energy and the runner will hold the rest of the fall. I still use it but I won't use it on a piece if there is something close below me to impact. I know Yates says to retire it after any of the stitching has ripped.

My question: Has anyone fallen on a partially ripped screamer? Was the screamer still effective?


kungfuclimber


Sep 10, 2002, 1:42 PM
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Interesting.

Last season while ice climbing I took a good fall. I ripped about a third of the stitching on a screamer (actually a copy called "zipper" by a company called "On Sight"). I've kept using it since then. I had (and just have) looked for info on the yates site that says "do not use one ripping has started" but I can't find any.

From what I read the stitching activates at 2kn. It says nothing about it being the first stitch or the last.


punk


Sep 10, 2002, 1:52 PM
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As I see it, it is a judgment call on your side if u still trust it then go ahead (the full ripped screamer according to Yates should be in the same as regular nylon runner strength) so in this respect its ok …not ideal…but OK
Asking me any hospital bill I got was more then $21…


tigerbythetail


Sep 10, 2002, 1:53 PM
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 If memory serves me, each bartack is designed to rip at a predetermined load. You can use the Screamer until all the bartacks are used up. After the bartacks are gone I think you can still use the sling. Check the Yates website for more info.


Partner drector


Sep 10, 2002, 2:50 PM
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Logically, you will be fine to use it again if the total force of your next fall is not enough to rip the entire screamer (before it was partialy ripped). The problem is that the less stitching there is, the less time there is for the stitching to slow you down. That means that you will still have plenty of force left when it is totally ripped to pull out your protection. If Yates or "on-site" or whoever makes these things thinks that they can be shorter then they would make them shorter. But they don't so why should you (make them shorter).


brisboy


Sep 10, 2002, 7:27 PM
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it will reduce the ammount of shock it cn absorb, ie think about streching a rubber band

see how much it strecthces.

now cut some of the length of it off

see how much the rubber band will strech now. thats right less strech, a scremer will act exactly the same

reducing the ammount of stiching in the system will make the load limit on it smaller before the scremer becomes a static draw.

HOw much it your life worth


redox


Sep 12, 2002, 1:40 AM
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All this talk about not using the screamer once its blown... Of course you can still use the screamer once its blown, but it wont "scream" anymore. A fully blown screamer is a regular sling. A partially blown screamer is a sling with a little bit of energy absortion.

The whole point of a screamer is to absorb energy. Obviously, your fall's energy wasn't enough to kill the entire screamer. That's ok. It will still work.

Put it this way: you have many levels of "good" protection:
1. fair
2. solid
3. good
4. bomber

Put a screamer on anything 2 or below. Put your partially used screamer on a level 2 or 3. It will absorb some energy, but not as much as a full screamer. And yes, it will still hold intact if you blow it completely (how do you think Yates can sell them?).


mountainmonkey


Sep 12, 2002, 7:32 AM
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Only the first 2 or 3 stitches blew - there is plenty left. I was just wondering if anyone has fallen on a partially used screamer and the results from it.

casey


radistrad


Sep 12, 2002, 8:34 AM
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I have not yet fallen on a screamer, thankfully. Remember why you are using it, to absorp energy. So do you really want to use a partially zipped screamer? Where is that next fall going to be? You may need that extra stitching so that 30 year old 1/4 incher below that string of heads holds you on zipper fall(read bleow).
I bet this guy was glad that he used a good screamer-http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?m=3744&f=0&b=0.

I say toss it or take it to your local sport crag and do some test falls on it, se what it takes to zip the rest of it.


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