|
|
|
|
sungam
Nov 3, 2006, 10:14 PM
Post #1 of 9
(1136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
The sweat seeped from my pours. My eye flickered around, the copious adrenalin burning through my veins, heightening my senses.
*whoosh*
I lean forwards, letting the spindrift from my partner's boot placement patter off of my hood.
It was definitely getting steeper.
stab stab step step step. stab stab step step step.
*THWACK* the noise echoed down from the front of our 4 man group.
What the hell? Is Andy on ice? I tuck my chin in to stop the spindrift from getting down my neck and look up. the small pellets stinging my frozen face.
Grade 1/I my ass. The steep snow gully reared up before us, a rib of exposed vertical ice crossing it about 25m in front of me. That's when I realize that Andy's already on belay, Simon has some more shite gear in, and Russ is heading over to a neutral cave on the right. It's not too big, only about 3m deep and 1m tall. After an exciting traverse I join him. 5 minutes later Simon is 2nding the pitch. The grunts and cracks drift down from above. I can't wait, that ice looked good from down here, and from what I heard it was awesome.
"whew! shaky at the end there!" the words echoed lazily down to us. "Russ, your next man, we'll drop you the rope"
"See ya dude, good luck" I give him a smile and a big thumbs up. I notice my lip is trembling. It's not just from the nerves of my first vertical ice climb. I'm getting cold.
"Your next" He grins back like a maniac, and disappears around the corner.
The same noises of effort and exposed climbing drift down again, but this time mixed with another sound, this time from below.
"It rears up a bit up ahead, but it shouldn't be a problem."
Another group. Ah shit, we were taking ages, the last thing we needed was a couple of pros ramming up our asses.
That's when they appeared, two middle aged females, making a fast pace. Without even taking notice of my "hi there" and smiling wave, they crack on above me.
"Magnus, we're gunna drop you the rope now"
Grunts of effort.
I batter my hands into each other to try and stay warm, and shout up "Dude, there's two women on their way up, I'll have to wait till they've passed" freezing, I curse the ladies under my breath. The sweat on my back is ridiculously cold, and my un covered track suit bottoms have actually started to freeze. I go for a sip from my platypus. frozen solid. My fingers are freezing, my shitty gloves, the biggest waste of 40 quid of my life, were drenched at the first hint of snow. the insulation was crap, too. I was starting to get tingles in the tips.
I couldn't believe what I was hearing. You have got to be joking me.
"ungh... Shit. Can I clip to your rope? please, I'm about to fall! I need a fucking belay!"
"sure thing! clip right on!"
"I've got leg-cramp, hold there a second please, I'm so sorry"
your shitting me. I'm fucking freezing, I need to climb to warm up. my fingers are going numb, my sweat is freezing, and the roof of this fucking cave is dripping on me.
two minutes later I started to shake.
My soaking jumper and cheap trackies were doing fuck all to keep me warm, but at least my nice GTX jacket keep me a dryish. nothing was getting in, anyways. Man I wish I had a belay jacket.
10 minutes later, the woman had finally hauled her sorry ass up the climb, tail tightly between her legs, and now that her big head could actually fit in the gully, the carried on ahead.
"okay magnus, we're dropping you the rope!"
"nmokay... MI'M fuckin freezin guys... NI dunno if I can fuckin tie in"
"Shit man, you've been static for like half an hour! we'll drop you down a fig 8 on bight with a screw gate" even that took effort.
35 minutes later I was out of the gully, my three friends pummeling me as I jumped up and down.
We must have looked like the biggest bunch of tits ever, but fuck that I was getting warmed up! another half hour and I was on top of the highest mountain in Britain, the excitement of the summit pushing the cold memory of the icy cave firmly to the back of my mind. Where it waited, until now.
It's the start of a new ice season, but this time I want to stay isothermic. so I've got to ask:
What is the best belay jacket? I'm looking for a good EU 750+or higher jacket with a hood with a water proof breathable membrane.
So far I've been eying up the RAB Neutrino Endurance, but I would like some more input in this.
And:
My gloves were utter pish! They were some shitty marmot ice gloves that they don't (at least I don't think so) make anymore. got them on sale £50 to £40. What should I have gone for? What gloves do you dig, and what would you suggest?
I got some gtx trousers now, as well, so thats the other main problem solved. and this time, I'll remember to change my layers when I start to sweat too much :)
Thanks if you can help.
-Magnus
Okay, I know what you're all thinking: "use the search function FFS!" well, I didn't because I wanted THIS seasons verdict, not last seasons out dated rubbish :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
dr_feelgood
Nov 3, 2006, 10:38 PM
Post #2 of 9
(1136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
|
Dude your posts are awesome. Always some great story or some shit that adds so much more than the usual concise question and answer format.
Quality.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Nov 3, 2006, 10:55 PM
Post #3 of 9
(1136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
Thanks doc, but still, any gear adivse?
>.<
-Magnus
|
|
|
|
|
jcrabtree
Nov 4, 2006, 12:57 AM
Post #4 of 9
(1136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 23, 2005
Posts: 8
|
You could probably take some advice from this guy: http://www.psychovertical.com
Plus I think he's a local!
Anyway, he knows his stuff and the site has some good reading to boot. Check out the gear tab and read through the clothing and clothing systems articles that peak your interest, he covers it all...might have a bad effect on your pocket book though.
My $0.02:
As far as belay jackets, I have the MH voodoo belay and it works just fine, but there are plenty of good primaloft (and down, but that's not the way I went...personal preference and largely determined by climate) jackets like it that are quite light. I believe Mammut has a notable one that is hailed by many and loathed by few. There's always the Patagonia DAS parka or puffball, both light for their warmth and functional. But check out gear made by a UK company (i think?) called buffalo. If you're not familiar with them I'll search for the link but they have a really good system that is worth considering.
Gloves are a tough one. They really depend on the circumstances. For WI the cloudveil ice floe glove is great but not super warm so possibly not what you're looking for. For warmth, BD makes a pretty comfy mitt. In the background though, there's always that dexterity vs. warmth trade off that is very route dependent...take one take all.
|
|
|
|
|
anykineclimb
Nov 4, 2006, 2:54 AM
Post #5 of 9
(1136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
|
I take a few pairs of gloves with me. that way when the liners get wet from sweat, I just trade em out. I also don't have to wear the shells if I don't need to.
I've got a Moonstone down jacket that I've been pretty happy with. it 600 fill (I think) with no hood so I just carry an extra hat.
|
|
|
|
|
dr_feelgood
Nov 4, 2006, 8:34 AM
Post #6 of 9
(1136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
|
In reply to: Thanks doc, but still, any gear adivse? >.< -Magnus
Nah. I don't actually ice climb yet. I just lurk.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Nov 4, 2006, 9:13 AM
Post #7 of 9
(1136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
:)
Thanks for the advice, the psycoverticle dude seems to know his stuff!
And Doc, will that condition be changing any time soon?
-Magnus
|
|
|
|
|
dr_feelgood
Nov 4, 2006, 12:15 PM
Post #8 of 9
(1136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
|
In reply to: :) Thanks for the advice, the psycoverticle dude seems to know his stuff! And Doc, will that condition be changing any time soon? -Magnus
Anyhow, stupid question to follow. You have been warned.
If you are using leashless Ice tools, where do you put them when you need one hand or both free? Like putting in a screw, or belaying. Only places i can think of are the gear loops on your harness, but might that cut your slings or fuck up your gear?
Told you it was stupid.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Nov 4, 2006, 2:47 PM
Post #9 of 9
(1136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
There are several techniques for this, if your just placing a screw, and it's solid ice you put it in... the ice!
Then it's there for you to grab as soon as your done with the gear. Be carefull, though, if it falls out problems generally ensue.
Another idea is to hook it over your other soulder, or tool. just whatever works.
-Magnus
|
|
|
|
|
|
