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epoch
Moderator
Nov 5, 2006, 8:28 PM
Post #1 of 3
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Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 32163
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It's been a good bit since there was a decent question in the forum; hopefully I'll get my question answered.
I've been looking into the usefullness of the Big Bros, and while I don't own a set, I am at the point where I am ready to own some. I understand their usefullness and their versitality. I am looking into opinions as to which one I should purchase first, and a useful order thereafter. I don't mind the big crack offwidth world as they have been some of the best climbs that I have ever done.
I have heard that the No 4 is the one to get, but I am looking for something that will be extremely versatile no matter what I am doing. Currently, if I am going to be doing something big, I cover my ass with my large cams. (My Valley Giants are stored at my parent's house on the other coast, ya know, for the valley.) So I can go hugormous with cams, but I am looking for one that I will actually use rather than opting out of carrying it and make it an addition to my standard rack. I don't know what else to ask, but for you bro users I guess I'm looking for some advice about them.
Cheers,
Jay
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sspssp
Nov 29, 2006, 7:19 PM
Post #2 of 3
(771 views)
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 1731
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Cams are much easier to use than BBs. The advantage of BBs is they go into bigger sizes and they weigh less than large cams.
For (easier) multi-pitch, my partner and I usually will only take one or two large cams and push it in front of us on lead. If it gets bigger than the largest Friend (we don't own Giants) than we might take a BB.
For craiging (harder) one pitch climbs, we will push a cam in front of and then leave a BB or two behind for pro. It is much easier to carry 4 or 5 BBs than it is to carry 4 or 5 large cams.
So what sort of climbs do you want to do. Climbs that go wider than your largest cam (how big do Giants go anyway)? Or do you want BBs to backup/protect cracks where you are pushing a cam up?
I wouldn't go smaller than the No 3 BB. The No 4 would be a good bet. The 5 weighs a lot. By the time you get into the crack in squeeze mode, it usually feels more secure than hanging outside the crack on an OW. However, for an extended squeeze, the 5 might be the only option.
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brutusofwyde
Nov 29, 2006, 10:52 PM
Post #3 of 3
(708 views)
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
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I, too, own Valley Giants: 2 #12's and 3 #9s.
For Big Bros, I don't own any #0.5 or #1 -- For lightweight pro in these sizes, I prefer tri-cams -- easier to place and I find more places where they fit.
And cams in the range are not hard to find either.
I own 1 ea. #2, and 2ea. #3, and 2 ea. #4.
I would start with one each of the #3 and #4, and double up or expand out in the sizes depending on your current goals.
I own but have never placed my #5.
Brutus, placed a #4 on Thanksgiving day.
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