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unabonger
Nov 8, 2006, 11:19 PM
Post #26 of 29
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Registered: Aug 8, 2003
Posts: 2689
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In reply to: 1. If i'm climbing with someone i don't know well i don't have to worry about them taking me off and dropping me
I never worry about my partners taking me off belay. They know better, and I make sure they do. So for you I guess that's a consideration but I'd rather make sure they know what they are doing before they belay me up a route, rather than when I'm at the top arranging the descent.
In reply to: 2. I've seen a lot of worn through bolts at the top of climbs, claiming that it doesn't cause significant wear to lower is total bullshit
Yes, sometimes anchors are pathetic, and a disgrace to their area. Rapping is more appropriate then. So is replacing the anchor I suppose. Different anchors have different wear rates. Cold shuts and fixed biners wear fastest, rings seem to last a very long time.
In reply to: That's like saying that dirt in your engine won't destroy it. People that claim this haven't seen much of the country, or worse, haven't paid attention to what they're clipping to.
My 97 Toyota Tacoma has 250,000 miles and I've only replaced the oil maybe a dozen times. So yeah, if you have the right engine, dirt doesn't destroy it. Same with anchors. No shit, I'm amazed at how poorly I've treated it and I have the lack of receipts to prove it. Damn thing is like magic. In my travels I've noticed a recent upsurge in anchor replacement, I hope it continues.
In reply to: Whatever you do, make sure that you and your partner are on the same page before you cast off to avoid miscommunication and confusion.
Cogent advice. If you did that, you wouldn't be so worried about your #1 reason.
UB
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ridgeclimber
Nov 9, 2006, 12:37 AM
Post #27 of 29
(1621 views)
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Registered: Sep 16, 2005
Posts: 163
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In reply to: In reply to: Well, I agree about one thing: it's an overly complicated way of doing it. That method has too much stuff going on at once in what is really a very simple procedure. Just thread it through directly, single strand, keeping yourself clipped in to the anchor and the rope attached to you with a locker. you also seem to forget the slight advantage of this method in that it is impossible to drop the rope while getting ready to lower. Unless you're going to tie an overhand on a bight, clip it to your harness, and later undo it, thereby adding more steps and more complications :roll:
Hey jackass, how about reading the post before you reply. Notice how I say keep yourself clipped to the rope with a locker. How the fuck are you going to drop your rope when its clipped to your belay loop with a locker?
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chossmonkey
Nov 9, 2006, 1:47 AM
Post #28 of 29
(1621 views)
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Well, I agree about one thing: it's an overly complicated way of doing it. That method has too much stuff going on at once in what is really a very simple procedure. Just thread it through directly, single strand, keeping yourself clipped in to the anchor and the rope attached to you with a locker. you also seem to forget the slight advantage of this method in that it is impossible to drop the rope while getting ready to lower. Unless you're going to tie an overhand on a bight, clip it to your harness, and later undo it, thereby adding more steps and more complications :roll: Hey jackass, how about reading the post before you reply. Notice how I say keep yourself clipped to the rope with a locker. How the f--- are you going to drop your rope when its clipped to your belay loop with a locker?
Rrrrright. :roll:
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ridgeclimber
Nov 9, 2006, 2:11 AM
Post #29 of 29
(1621 views)
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Registered: Sep 16, 2005
Posts: 163
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Here is a description from Planetfear of the way I do it:
In reply to: The following procedure will ensure that you lower off safely: Step 1: Clip yourself from the abseil loop to the bolts using two quick draws Step 2: Pull up two metres of rope, tie a Figure of Eight knot and clip it into your belay loop using a screw gate krab. Step 3: Untie from the end of the rope and thread the end of the rope through the bolts or single lower point. Step 4: Tie in again. Step 5: Untie the Figure of Eight knot from the rope. Step 6: Take the tension on the rope checking everything is correct. Step 7: Remove the quick draws and lower down. |
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