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beagly
Nov 10, 2006, 5:19 PM
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Registered: May 3, 2005
Posts: 14
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Heading down to Lokking glass this weekend, may try glass menagerie if it is available. A couple of questions
Any need for any large gear bigger than #4 camalot? I have 4.5, 5 if needed....
Various sources (eg on the Southe East Clibers site) seem to imply that you can rap the route (or another route?) as opposed to going down some descent gully. can anyone clarify this?
Thanks
Simon
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munky
Nov 10, 2006, 5:40 PM
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Registered: Apr 26, 2006
Posts: 358
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Simon,
I've been on the route before and can tell you that you definitely want a big cam (#5, maybe even a #6) for pitch 6 or 7. That pitch has a very wide (scary) offwidth that without a big cam is almost unthinkable. With the bigee you can cam jumar up it. If attempting to free it you might think twice about bringing it to limit your load. As far as rapping off the route, I wouldn't bother. You can but might need to leave a biner, runner, etc. depending whats up there. You can walk off it The walk off will take you about 1.5 hrs to get back to the car but I think its the better option. Have fun and if the route is taken and you are looking for other options here are my picks.
Free: Tits and Beer, Cornflake Crack, The Womb, Sundial Crack,
Aid: Invisible Airwaves, Cornflake Crack, Brain something another?
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beagly
Nov 10, 2006, 8:40 PM
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Registered: May 3, 2005
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the OW is pitch 6 in Schull - 10c? how long is the OW bit?
Any other gear suggestions?
We're thinkin gof taking two days given little daylight, fixing to maybe topo pitch 4 - any thoughts on that?
Thanks
Simon
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the_alpine
Nov 10, 2006, 9:26 PM
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Registered: Nov 6, 2003
Posts: 371
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Nothing larger than #4 camalot is needed (the old size - purple). 2 #4's make it nice. You can barely make it to the ground from the top of the roof pitch with 2 60 meter ropes. You end up in trees with a little bit of downclimbing to do. The OW part is not that bad, you end up stemming either side of the crack.
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