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bigfatrock


Nov 17, 2006, 9:25 AM
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Route Rating Question
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So, last night I climbed my first 5.9 at the climbing gym, but found it MUCH easier than a 5.8+ I have been projecting. I found the 5.9 to be very ballancey. The 5.8+ I'm working on is nothing but long static moves.

The same guy set both routes. I asked him about the ratings and insisted they were accurate. So does style of climbing factor into how a route is rated?


overlord


Nov 17, 2006, 9:33 AM
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Re: [bigfatrock] Route Rating Question [In reply to]
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no, its just the difficulty. but chances are that the .9 suited your style better than the .8 and so it seemed easier. or the setter climbs to hard and cant differentiate between .8+ and .9.

besides, its a gym, why do you care?


bigfatrock


Nov 17, 2006, 9:36 AM
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Re: [overlord] Route Rating Question [In reply to]
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In reply to:
besides, its a gym, why do you care?

I'm only curious. I don't want to be one that gets hung up in ratings, but at the same time they are a necesary evil to gauge your progress and ability.


overlord


Nov 17, 2006, 9:56 AM
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Re: [bigfatrock] Route Rating Question [In reply to]
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well, indoor grades are a really poor indicator. i have just five indoor grades, they are 'warmup', 'easy', 'moderate', 'hard', 'too hard'.

the best indicators are climbs that have established ratings (that means that theyre popular and that most ppl agree with the grade).

and youre thinking along the correct lines, at least. number chasing destroys climbing.


Partner alexmac


Nov 17, 2006, 10:42 AM
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Re: [bigfatrock] Route Rating Question [In reply to]
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In reply to:
So, last night I climbed my first 5.9 at the climbing gym, but found it MUCH easier than a 5.8+ I have been projecting. I found the 5.9 to be very ballancey. The 5.8+ I'm working on is nothing but long static moves.

The same guy set both routes. I asked him about the ratings and insisted they were accurate. So does style of climbing factor into how a route is rated?

The climb also depends on if you keep the rope tight or not, as this gives lift. Keep the rope such taht your safe but will certainly fall 2 feet if you miss a move.

Indoor ratings have nothing to do with outdoors, at least not in my area, outdoor is much harder. Hence the sneering at indoor by most people.


markc


Nov 17, 2006, 12:32 PM
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Re: [overlord] Route Rating Question [In reply to]
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In reply to:
but chances are that the .9 suited your style better than the .8 and so it seemed easier. or the setter climbs to hard and cant differentiate between .8+ and .9.

Without knowing the routes in question, I'd suspect the former. Some routes are more straightforward than others, or favor a certain body type or style of climbing. Non-gym examples would be face climbers trying to learn crack climbing, or someone learning slab climbing.

A tangent, but I like the rating system in my gym. They just use easy, moderate, and hard (with modifiers) for roped climbs. It gives you enough of a ballpark without worrying about 5.8 + vs 5.9. As had been said, there's usually no correlation between indoor and outdoor ratings anyway. Why use the same scale?


Partner ctardi


Nov 26, 2006, 10:40 AM
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Re: [bigfatrock] Route Rating Question [In reply to]
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Grading is very subjective. Usually after the climb has been set, the setter will choose a grade for it. This is only in his opinion.

Some people will agree, some will think it's wrong, and some don't care because they are just there to climb.


dynoingfool


Nov 28, 2006, 11:03 AM
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Re: [ctardi] Route Rating Question [In reply to]
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ratings can be unreliable... for example:i currently climb 5.12, but... there are several 5.10c's near my home, i onsighted one of them, one never gives me trouble, one i still havent gotten, and one i can get if im really strong and trying really hard. again these are all supposedly THE SAME GRADE!!!!??!?!?!.....sigh, dont stress it just climb.


BIGcrazy


Nov 28, 2006, 12:03 PM
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Re: [bigfatrock] Route Rating Question [In reply to]
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I often think the same about some routes, there are a few indoor 5.9s I can climb in my a sleep and few 5.8s that woop my ass.

You have to remember simply that climbing styles have more to do with how hard something is than anything else, I can climb high step balance type stuff with little trouble but a little inversion or a big pull wiht all arms and I am cooked. One of my climbing buddies si the exact opposite.


bigfatrock


Nov 28, 2006, 2:12 PM
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Re: [BIGcrazy] Route Rating Question [In reply to]
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BIGcrazy wrote:
I often think the same about some routes, there are a few indoor 5.9s I can climb in my a sleep and few 5.8s that woop my ass.

You have to remember simply that climbing styles have more to do with how hard something is than anything else, I can climb high step balance type stuff with little trouble but a little inversion or a big pull wiht all arms and I am cooked. One of my climbing buddies si the exact opposite.

I am really starting to see that now. I do better on the balancy stuff I am finding out. I am lacking upper body strength, but working on it.


BIGcrazy


Nov 28, 2006, 3:54 PM
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Re: [bigfatrock] Route Rating Question [In reply to]
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nothing is funnier than seeing someone campus up a 5.8 inverted with big jugs and then fail to do a 10a strait up LOL


el_jerko


Dec 7, 2006, 2:55 PM
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Re: [BIGcrazy] Route Rating Question [In reply to]
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I think it is a good idea to know what grade you can climb, particularly if you are getting on unfamiliar routes outdoors. As mentioned above the style of climbing plays a roll. I got brutilized on a 5.6 offwidth right after leading face routes routes rated much harder. Also, it takes a while to get the feel of different rock. Ratings vary with location and can vary a lot depending on when the route was established. Many 'old' 5.9's can be very humbling. So use the gym routes as a guide and when you go outside start on routes a good bit below your ability until you get a feel for things.


tradrenn


Dec 8, 2006, 5:14 PM
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Re: [bigfatrock] Route Rating Question [In reply to]
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bigfatrock wrote:
So does style of climbing factor into how a route is rated?

YES


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