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iceisnice
Nov 24, 2006, 11:45 PM
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Has anyone done this mixed climb to the left of the Ribbon? Just curious as to the quality of the climbing. Thanks.
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johnhemlock
Nov 27, 2006, 4:37 AM
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I was up there today and chatted with a guide who was soloing the first couple of pitches of Walkin the Line to see if it would be feasible for a client. He seemed to give it thumbs up but I didn't ask many questions. There is lots of thin but fairly obvious ice to the left of the Ribbon so I think there are a couple of ways to go. Have you done the Talisman? It looks really good.
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iceisnice
Nov 28, 2006, 11:17 PM
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talisman in coming soon. it looks amazing. was the ice you saw the ice that the guide was on? walkin the line is the only route that i know about to the left of the ribbon.
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johnhemlock
Nov 29, 2006, 2:41 AM
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I sent you a couple of pix, as I am too stoopid to understand how to add images on this site. There was an obvious but thin line to the left of the prow that is to the left of the Ribbon. It's in the upper left of the photo I sent you of the Ribbon. The guide was at the parking area and we were just shooting the shit but I think he had climbed rock to the thin ice runnel and then climbed that. Some other guy was soloing Birdbrain and there were two other parties around the route. A far cry from the years of one or two ascents a season!
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pyramid
Nov 29, 2006, 3:46 PM
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Mr. Hemlock, were u the guy walking around in the afternoon taking pictures? You had a small pack and a white helmet.
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johnhemlock
Nov 29, 2006, 7:18 PM
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That was me, playing around with my new XMas gift (Canon 30D.) Were you the guy soling the start of Birdbrain? Or the guy soloing Walkin the Line? Or the guy climbing with Vince Anderson in the Posers Lounge? Or one of the guys getting off the Ribbon?
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iceisnice
Nov 30, 2006, 12:18 AM
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was up there today at the skylight area. checked out Walkin the Line. there was a local guide there who doesn't think that the line in the guidebook is correct as that has almost never had ice. but, a couple hundred feet to the left of the line that is marked in the guidebook is a potential ice line that is almost formed up. anyway, conditions were grea today. really freakin cold and windy, but that's good news. apparently the "super secret" climbs up in campbird are pretty sweet right now. gonna hit ames ice hose tomorrow.
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pyramid
Nov 30, 2006, 4:54 PM
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That was us going up the Ribbon in the late afternoon, got off about 4pm. Knew snow was coming so went up the Ribbon for the 3rd time in a week. Those 'super secret' climbs were climbed 20 years ago, I know this because we did them.
(This post was edited by pyramid on Nov 30, 2006, 5:01 PM)
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johnhemlock
Nov 30, 2006, 7:33 PM
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Pyramid - We were going to do the Ribbon on Saturday but weren't sure what a few inches of snow might mean, so we climbed in Silverton instead. I definitely want to climb it this season. Ray, aren't you supposed to be in rehab mode? Ames Ice Hose doesn't sound like taking it easy to me, even with the new wanker bolts! Andy and I will be down sometime before the fest, I think. We'll try to coordinate with your days off.
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iceisnice
Dec 1, 2006, 3:38 PM
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ames was HUUUGGGEEEEE!!!! oh, and the shoulder is doing great.
(This post was edited by iceisnice on Dec 1, 2006, 3:39 PM)
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