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Good Aid Routes in NC for a begining Aid Climber...
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dockzilla


Nov 27, 2006, 1:58 PM
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Good Aid Routes in NC for a begining Aid Climber...
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Well I have been Trad climbing for about two years now and me and Smokerocks87 are wanting to try out some aid. I live in the North Carolina area and I would like to know some good routes for a begining aider to try....If there is any out of the ordinary gear needed for the route would you be so kind as to let me know!
Thanks!


Partner j_ung


Nov 27, 2006, 2:16 PM
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Re: [dockzilla] Good Aid Routes in NC for a begining Aid Climber... [In reply to]
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I'm not much of an authority on aid climbing, nor anything else for that matter, but I'd suggest cutting your teeth on some of the more easily protectable free routes until you get your system down. Check out Shredded Wheat at Rumbling Bald.


dockzilla


Nov 27, 2006, 2:26 PM
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Re: [j_ung] Good Aid Routes in NC for a begining Aid Climber... [In reply to]
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I have never seen that rote before but is it pretty much that killer finger crack the whole way up??


weatherm


Nov 30, 2006, 7:52 AM
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Re: [dockzilla] Good Aid Routes in NC for a begining Aid Climber... [In reply to]
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Glass Menagerie when you get all of the techniques dialed. Just need a tag line for hauling and two days to do the route, unless your are a 'resident hardman' and can do it in a day. You can fix a 200' tag line from the top of the 4th pitch leave your gear up there and lower off and jug in the morning.. or always get a ledge, which would be my call because jugging gets old :)
If your looking for a partner to go GM count me in.

remember two aiders for each foot really makes a huge difference when your transfering weight on a sketchy hook.


Partner j_ung


Nov 30, 2006, 8:22 AM
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Re: [dockzilla] Good Aid Routes in NC for a begining Aid Climber... [In reply to]
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dockzilla wrote:
I have never seen that rote before but is it pretty much that killer finger crack the whole way up??

More or less. It widens a bit here and narrows a bit there, but it'll take you all the way to the anchors, fo' so'.


mchristie


Dec 2, 2006, 10:26 AM
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As stated, Shreded wheat at Rumbling is a good starter aid line that sews up. Also, at the North Side of Looking Glass, the first pitch of cornflake crack is a good one to start on.

After those I would step it up a little and lead the first pitch of Electric Cool Aid Acid Test to the right of hyperbola on lookiing Glass. It requires some technical micro nuts, but is well protected and very safe. It probablly goes around C2.

Next would be the 2nd and 3rd pitch of Invisible Airwaves which are both A2. You can do the 2nd pitch clean with micro nuts, ballnuts and camhooks but swinging a hammer makes it easier.

BTW if your going to start aiding, go ahead and buy a set or two of micronuts and a couple of camhooks in different sizes. a small selection of knifeblades and lost arrows with a few beaks is also a good investment.

Enjoy!

Matt


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