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angry
Nov 29, 2006, 3:41 PM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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Oh the irony http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;
Well here it is a few years later and I want to climb some really hard desert corners. I can only think of Ruby's Cafe.
I'm looking for 5.12+ and harder corners. Ideally, I'd like all the hard parts to be in the corner. I'm not interested in a bunch of 5.11 corner moves with 5.13 climbing away from the crack, then back into the corner. I want 5.13 crux moves in the corner. Totally gay I know.
Any ideas?
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camhead
Nov 29, 2006, 5:03 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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Homo!
I'll bet that a layback of "Mouse Trap" would definitely be 5.13!
Have you heard of Abbienormal at Cat Wall?
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/indian_creek/105718807
Looks interesting. Hasn't seen a clean lead yet.
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angry
Nov 29, 2006, 6:16 PM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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I walked right past that thing a month ago. Looks thin. Why does it have a plaque and a rating if it's never been freed? Maybe the rating is just a guess.
I think I could make any corner 5.13 if I put Crisco on my hands and wore Crocs instead of climbing shoes. It's harder to spray that way though. And I want to save the Crisco for you big boy.
Can we get a gay emoticon? I mean they're all gay, but I want one that's Fah-laming!!
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lightrack
Nov 29, 2006, 6:30 PM
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Registered: Jan 3, 2003
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theres a thin corner on the 'deadman's' butress (long canyon) that probably hasnt seen a free lead. 100 yrds left of 'program director'. grey-blue tcus size, probably 12ish...
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camhead
Nov 29, 2006, 11:34 PM
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oh! oh! and there's that Lisa Gnade line that is a ways right of Johny cat as well; I think that's 12+... it's a bunch of blue TCUs in a corner. GAY!
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slobmonster
Nov 30, 2006, 8:52 PM
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Registered: Jul 28, 2003
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To the rightn of Broekn Tooth (the route) is a thin corner that might just be what you're looking for. Tunnel (well, not really) behind a big block to approach. I don't think it's seen a free ascent.
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pbjosh
Nov 30, 2006, 10:30 PM
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
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The tombstone comes to mind...
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mushroomsamba
Dec 8, 2006, 12:33 AM
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I guess thats not gay enough
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crotch
Dec 8, 2006, 1:29 AM
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Registered: Jan 16, 2003
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How about the corner pitch on Moonlight Buttress? How hard is that thing free?
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vegastradguy
Dec 9, 2006, 8:10 PM
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crotch wrote: How about the corner pitch on Moonlight Buttress? How hard is that thing free?
.12+/13- for about 10 feet or so. looks ridiculously tough. above that is more .12ish terrain. (this part is just below and above the aid belay at the top part of the dihedral)
the lower part of that pitch, on the other hand, looks amazing and at a more reasonable grade (somewhere in the .11 range, i believe)
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lemon_boy
Dec 10, 2006, 5:27 PM
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Registered: Mar 12, 2002
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yo angry,
have you checked out a couple of the corners at escalante? a few that come to mind...
at cabin wall, just left of passion for pumping is a slight, left facing, changing corner thing that is pretty rugged.
at zappa wall,there is the panel that has the 2 beautiful cracks that go from slightly overhanging into changing corners (they are just left of the huge block with the really nice hand crack behind it).
also at zappa, that corner/roof deal that is a bit to the right of fork it.
also, obvious option is death of a cowboy, but you might have done it already. i will try to think of some more.
how did the berries go this fall? saw you up at critics choice, but you were headed up that route. i had just gotten worked on second choice and was desperately headed to the car for beer.
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angry
Dec 10, 2006, 6:10 PM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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Berries was a learning experience, thanks for asking. I've tried it 4 times now, I'm feeling confident about what to do next time.
I know the cabin route you're talking about. It looks totally futuristic IMO. I'd always assumed it was a practice aid climb or something. I ought to try it, just for giggles.
The other routes at Zappa, I think I've seen them but not tried them. That's a good suggestion, it's a closer drive.
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flamer
Dec 11, 2006, 10:21 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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crotch wrote: How about the corner pitch on Moonlight Buttress? How hard is that thing free?
Supposedly that corner is given 5.13 for the onsight only...whatever that means....if you work it it's more like 5.12.....at least that's what "they" say.
josh
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