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punk
Sep 12, 2002, 4:42 PM
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did any of u guys had any mucky and shabby pro placements, rivets or bolts on the zodiac that will demand or it will be nice to have a screamers on...if so how many should I bring with me
thanx
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punk
Sep 12, 2002, 5:07 PM
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next weekend on 9/20
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punk
Sep 12, 2002, 5:35 PM
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All intentions are !!!
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radistrad
Sep 12, 2002, 6:17 PM
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Yes, bring screamers. When my partner did it with Karl they used screamers. Look at the pics from his trip report, I see screamers.http://member.newsguy.com/~climbing/El_Cap_Zodiac_20_years.html
Also the Aliens and Alien Hybrids really helped them do it clean nad a bit safer.
Karl is on this site you should email him. His profile:http://www.rockclimbing.com/users/list.php?UserID=karlbaba
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elcapbuzz
Sep 12, 2002, 6:31 PM
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There's not to much mank on the Zodiac, however, I have gotten into a habit of placing a couple of screamers right off the belay. That is where the fall factor is the greatest. I think it's a GREAT habit to get into. Also, if you don't already have them, get some cam hooks. They help me more than any other gear on my rack.
Good luck, Ammon
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punk
Sep 12, 2002, 11:32 PM
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I think I will embrace my habit of doing things just like Ammon said ….I will toss in my haulbag a Zipper and two regular screamers and will bring one aid screamer for just incase
(going light its soooo fricking hard...got to get out of the radical fast and light approch I have ...I have being doing too much alpine climbing )
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justsendingits
Sep 13, 2002, 8:10 AM
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Registered: Dec 29, 2001
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Neri,I use 2 sets of cam hooks,one on each side of me.EMBRACE CAM HOOKS!!!Once you get good with them,you end up using them all the time,saves time!!!
R
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manacubus
Sep 13, 2002, 11:20 AM
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Registered: Jul 15, 2002
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Did it as my second wall in May 2002. We did it hammerless. Very useful gear to have was:
- blue-green hybrid alien
- wished we had a green-yellow hybrid alien
- 3" Pika ibis hook
- cam hooks (always!)
- HB offset wires (particularly around #7)
It's months later and the ascent is still foremost in my mind.
Soak it up!
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punk
Sep 13, 2002, 7:41 PM
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Thank you PP,
In my Hooks arsenal I always have
2 Talons
2 Cliffhangers 1 pointed
2 Grappling 1 pointed
2 fish
2 Bat narrow
1 Logen
1 Camhook Lg.
2 Camhook Med.
2 Camhook Sm.
1 2" Ibis
1 3" Ibis
And Im quite happy with it
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punk
Sep 13, 2002, 11:35 PM
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The list above is my Arsenal…but on me I will have
2 med Camhooks
1 lg Camhook
1 Cliffhanger
1 Grappling
1 fish
1 Talon
1 Ibis 2”
the rest goes to the catch line for when needed
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karlbaba
Sep 15, 2002, 5:05 AM
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Registered: Jul 10, 2002
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Did Zodiac this year. You won't need any screamers if you don't fall. A lot of folks don't happen to fall on Zodiac. There are still fixed heads to clip, and tiny wires that you have to use for pro. If by some chance anything ripped, you might all of sudden need a screamer. In particular, you don't want to fall on the top of the black tower and the pro above the black tower is certainly non-bomber. What Amon said about fall factors is true as well.
I bring screamers on every single route I climb. I'll just use em as quickdraws low on the pitch if I don't need em for a problem placement.
Peace
Karl
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apollodorus
Oct 1, 2002, 7:13 AM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
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Think of screamers as Whipdraws. You can either whip on them, or use them as draws.
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