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metalhead
Nov 29, 2006, 9:34 PM
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i am planning on buying a new set of hexes and i want to know whats best. i already searched the fourms for this and all i found was mass topics on wired vs. slung hexes, so what do you think is the best brand of hexes?
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anykineclimb
Nov 29, 2006, 9:40 PM
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I really like WC Rockcentrics. Some don't like them because they set a littel too well and are hard to clean; just keep that in mind when placing them and don't place them so good!
I also prefer the sling to wire. gives you the option of clipping directly although I rarely do it.
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forkliftdaddy
Nov 29, 2006, 9:43 PM
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My hexual daydream: I'd like a hex with curved faces of the Metolius model and the simple endwise taper of the BD model. Probably the WC Rockcentrics are the best approximation of this combo. (Oh, and I like wired hexes 'cause they're less filling.)
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pjdf
Nov 29, 2006, 9:48 PM
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I'll add another vote for the WC Rockcentrics. I just really like the shape and think they place really well. There are times I wish they used wires rather than slings, but if I had my hex purchase to do over again I'd buy Rockcentrics. I have the BD Hexcentrics, and they aren't bad; just a bit trickier to place well.
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metalhead
Nov 29, 2006, 10:12 PM
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Yeah, i was thinking about rockcentrics mainly because of their strength rating and their
curve but of the curved hexes Ive used they seem to have a lot less range.
If I here more good things about rockcentrics I might go with them
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rhyang
Nov 29, 2006, 10:30 PM
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I have a set of the WC's slung on dyneema, and a set of the larger BD's on wire (8-11). The WC's are relatively light in weight, so I generally bring those instead. However, WC offers no equivalent to the #11 BD hex, should that be important for whatever reason. Also, it is possible to get 2nd/blem BD's at a reduced price - have never seen 2nd/blem WC's.
Looking at gearexpress.com it would appear that WC used to make wired hexes, but perhaps no longer ?
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ja1484
Nov 29, 2006, 10:52 PM
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WC rockcentrics, but cut off the Dyneema sling that comes in them and resling with BlueWater Titan or BD Gemini. Definitely the way to go.
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alpinismo_flujo
Nov 29, 2006, 10:58 PM
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I've had BDs for years. I still have some hexes but rarely ever bring them except in the backcountry to save weight.
To answer your question - WC are better than BDs. I think most people agree on that.
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metalhead
Nov 29, 2006, 11:24 PM
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well i think ill go with rockcentrics
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catbird_seat
Nov 30, 2006, 1:23 AM
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ja1484 wrote: WC rockcentrics, but cut off the Dyneema sling that comes in them and resling with BlueWater Titan or BD Gemini. Definitely the way to go.
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vegastradguy
Nov 30, 2006, 2:30 AM
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the only hexes i've ever thought were worth anything on the rock are the old slung BD's- simplicity at its finest.
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ja1484
Nov 30, 2006, 1:14 PM
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catbird_seat wrote: Please tell me why I would want to do that? Cord is much stiffer than Dyneema, and, instead of a trim sewn section, there will be a big knot. Sounds like a dumb idea to me.
Exactly. With a good cord resling, you can slot a hex nearly the length of the cord above your reach. Just grab the cord sling, pull the chock tight and wham...bury that thing in almost a foot and a half above your actual grasp.
Disadvantage: Stiffer cord means it's a wise idea to use a quickdraw on these babies.
You decide. I like the extra ease in placement, but some people may be anal about the stiffness. Personal preference, kind of like this whole thread.
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percious
Nov 30, 2006, 4:06 PM
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I've been using rockcentrics for almost a year now. They are great, definitely have held a few falls. I always feel good above these pieces. Love the silver one!
-percious
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catbird_seat
Nov 30, 2006, 5:05 PM
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ja1484 wrote: catbird_seat wrote: Please tell me why I would want to do that? Cord is much stiffer than Dyneema, and, instead of a trim sewn section, there will be a big knot. Sounds like a dumb idea to me. Exactly. With a good cord resling, you can slot a hex nearly the length of the cord above your reach. Just grab the cord sling, pull the chock tight and wham...bury that thing in almost a foot and a half above your actual grasp. Disadvantage: Stiffer cord means it's a wise idea to use a quickdraw on these babies. You decide. I like the extra ease in placement, but some people may be anal about the stiffness. Personal preference, kind of like this whole thread.
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blakester
Nov 30, 2006, 7:37 PM
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catbird_seat wrote: ja1484 wrote: WC rockcentrics, but cut off the Dyneema sling that comes in them and resling with BlueWater Titan or BD Gemini. Definitely the way to go. Please tell me why I would want to do that? Cord is much stiffer than Dyneema, and, instead of a trim sewn section, there will be a big knot. Sounds like a dumb idea to me.
I think it's a dumb idea too, but tie your 2x fishermans knot inside the hex to avoid that problem.
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ja1484
Nov 30, 2006, 8:03 PM
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catbird_seat wrote: If you really want stiff then you'd prefer wire, but in the really large hex sizes the wire still isn't stiff enough to support the hex. However, then your hand fits into the really large cracks so you can hand place them. There are plus and minuses to stiff cordage. I like wire on anything smaller than hand size and dyneema on anything larger than that.
Doing your own wire swages is hard without custom equipment, and they don't sell wired rockcentrics. Aside from that, Titan or Gemini is stiff enough to allow overhead slotting just like wire, but actually has more give than wire itself, giving you a best-of-both-worlds sort of deal.
Hand placement is fine...if your hand reaches that far.
If I'm going to soft sling, I'd rather have bartacked 11/16 nylon over Dyneema, but that debate is largely academic.
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tshimkus
Nov 30, 2006, 9:27 PM
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If you are looking for wired hexes WC actually makes wired rockcentrics. They aren't anodized like the newest models but they appear to be the same design.
If you do a google search for "wired rockcentrics" there are a lot of online shops that have them in stock.
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tshimkus
Nov 30, 2006, 9:29 PM
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On that same note backcountrygear.com is selling their wired rockcentrics a lot cheaper than the dyneema slung hexes.
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catbird_seat
Nov 30, 2006, 9:43 PM
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"ja1484 wrote: Doing your own wire swages is hard without custom equipment, and they don't sell wired rockcentrics. Aside from that, Titan or Gemini is stiff enough to allow overhead slotting just like wire, but actually has more give than wire itself, giving you a best-of-both-worlds sort of deal.
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angry
Nov 30, 2006, 11:49 PM
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A $30 hand swager is appropriate for fixing control wires on cams. It is not appropriate for weight bearing swages.
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catbird_seat
Dec 1, 2006, 3:57 AM
Post #22 of 30
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angry wrote: A $30 hand swager is appropriate for fixing control wires on cams. It is not appropriate for weight bearing swages.
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punk_rocker333
Dec 1, 2006, 9:06 AM
Post #23 of 30
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I really like my Metolius curved Hexes. You can usually find them used for a good price, which is why I would reccomend them. I prefer cables to slings, especially in the small to mid sizes.
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angry
Dec 16, 2006, 10:42 PM
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catbird_seat wrote: angry wrote: A $30 hand swager is appropriate for fixing control wires on cams. It is not appropriate for weight bearing swages. You don't know what you are talking about. The end result using the $30 swager is every bit as strong as the $300 model. It just isn't as pretty and it takes more time and effort. I would and have trusted my life to these swages. I've used them in sailing applications in which thousands of pounds of force is applied and not had one fail. If you is concerned about the quality of the swage, you can make up a test sample and have it pull tested.
I think we we're talking about different swagers. The plier type swager that I repair cams with cost me about $30. The biggest swage it's designed to crimp is 1/16". That's OK for some really (really really)spooky aid gear but otherwise a little on the small side.
If you are talking about a block swager, the kind that you tighten down some bolts and eventually smash the swage, I'll agree with you. It's as safe as a swage done with a pricey plier type swager. One that's big enough to crimp a good strong cable is $31, at Ace Hardware.
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catbird_seat
Dec 17, 2006, 12:11 AM
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Yes, I was talking about the block type swager. The one I have does 1/16, 3/32, and 1/8". I think that small nuts are 3/32, and larger nuts and hexes are 1/8". Sorry for the misunderstanding.
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