|
saur
Sep 12, 2002, 7:12 PM
Post #1 of 15
(2828 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 4, 2002
Posts: 4
|
ok im just getting into Aid climbing and i realize both types of cams are indespensible, but which would you all recomend investing in first?
|
|
|
|
|
punk
Sep 12, 2002, 7:31 PM
Post #2 of 15
(2828 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 1442
|
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=15607&forum=19&8
|
|
|
|
|
saur
Sep 12, 2002, 7:50 PM
Post #3 of 15
(2828 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 4, 2002
Posts: 4
|
thanks,although that isnt what i asked about its usefull
[ This Message was edited by: saur on 2002-09-12 12:52 ]
|
|
|
|
|
punk
Sep 12, 2002, 8:00 PM
Post #4 of 15
(2828 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 1442
|
Look what glockaroo had in his rack an apparently he wasn't fully satisfy with his choice….I think u can take it from there
|
|
|
|
|
radistrad
Sep 12, 2002, 8:09 PM
Post #5 of 15
(2828 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 25, 2002
Posts: 800
|
Aliens are so much better than TCUs.
I climb in Yosemite all the time and my Aliens are always on my rack, aid or free .
I also own a full set of TCU's, if they were "that" good I would not own 13 Aliens and more of them.
Dont forget to get a set of Hybrid Ailens.
I plan on adding about 4 more cams to my rack, they will be Ailens from Green to Orange, for aid you should have a black and blue as well.
If you did not know the Red Alien has the same range as a .5 Camalot and the Orange Alien has the same range as a .75 Camalot. I think the Yellow and .4 also match up.
Ailens rule for aid as you can clip into the swaged loop, you can not do this with any other cam of the same size. The BD micro cams (I own the .4) dont fit as nicely as the Aliens do and they have those hideously long trigger wires that will break way to soon.
Also for aid get some HB offset Nuts, they are sooooo cool in pin scars.
hope I helped...
|
|
|
|
|
pbjosh
Sep 12, 2002, 8:30 PM
Post #6 of 15
(2828 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 1518
|
I like Aliens, Hybrid/Offset Aliens AND TCUs. They all have their places. You can clip directly to the cam instead of the sling with TCUs just as you can with the Aliens. The 00 (grey) through 3 (orange) TCUs are the most useful sizes. The black (.33) through maybe orange (?) Aliens are the most useful sizes. For the hybrid aliens the smallest two or three are great, the bigger ones are less necessary.
Aliens fit places TCUs don't or are s--- and vice-versa. I definitely carry both. I agree that the Black Diamond Microcamalots (I have a set) suck for the most part, at least in comparison to TCUs and Aliens.
Offset nuts rock as well.
josh
|
|
|
|
|
cedk
Sep 12, 2002, 8:53 PM
Post #7 of 15
(2828 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 31, 2001
Posts: 516
|
Which is better for free climbing?
Can the Black and Blue aliens be used for free climbing?
|
|
|
|
|
flattracker23
Sep 12, 2002, 8:59 PM
Post #8 of 15
(2828 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 7, 2002
Posts: 36
|
I love my Black Alien.
|
|
|
|
|
punk
Sep 12, 2002, 9:04 PM
Post #9 of 15
(2828 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 1442
|
of course!!!
BTW
the "aid only" rating that some pro gets is to set lower climbers expectation level from their own perception of what the pro is capable of doing in case of free fall but if going in clear mind and expectation every pieces is of pro can be used for free climbing
|
|
|
|
|
pbjosh
Sep 12, 2002, 9:21 PM
Post #10 of 15
(2828 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 1518
|
I've fallen on a blue alien a couple times - not big falls but one was about 8' and close to the belay. It was in a solid finger tips crack. I haven't fallen on the black alien - I do and will continue to use it for free climbing however, just like I used #1 and 2 stoppers, the smallest HB offsets, RPs, the 00 TCU and other tiny gear.
I recently led a 10c dihedral where my best piece was a bomber #5 stopper and most of my gear was #2-#4 stoppers in marginal to ok placements and one halfway decent 00 TCU. But I got about 12 pieces in 50 feet, had two really good pieces right off the belay and felt pretty good about both the climbing and the _amount_ of gear I had. I wouldn't have run it out on any of that gear but something would have held given how much I had.
josh
|
|
|
|
|
philbox
Moderator
Sep 12, 2002, 10:07 PM
Post #11 of 15
(2828 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2002
Posts: 13105
|
My climbing partner Grant has fallen numerous times on to a black alien whilst working an Oz grade 27 route called The Lords Prayer. My black alien is now near retirement as the trigger sheath is very frayed and in danger of pulling out. Not a safety issue, more a booty issue. Mind you he was placing this black alien into a crack that splits bullet hard rock.
Some of the other pro he was using on the route is slider nuts which he also proceeded to test profusely. We ended up knowing how to place and also to extract gear that would have a high probability of being fallen on.
He ended up getting the tick and went back a couple of more times to retick. Pretty steep and thin line too. I can`t believe that the first ascent was back in the bad old days of nuts only.
...Phil...
|
|
|
|
|
krustyklimber
Sep 12, 2002, 10:24 PM
Post #12 of 15
(2828 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 25, 2002
Posts: 1650
|
Aliens rule, hybrids are the greatest thing ever to happen to aid climbing!
Jeff
|
|
|
|
|
manacubus
Sep 13, 2002, 11:24 AM
Post #13 of 15
(2828 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 15, 2002
Posts: 141
|
Aliens all the way.
|
|
|
|
|
kindredlion
Sep 19, 2002, 8:28 PM
Post #14 of 15
(2828 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 7, 2002
Posts: 146
|
I own both Alien and TCU's. I carry both. The smaller Aliens, are very much indispensible. If you put the equivalent TCU and Alien on top of each other you will notice that they have almost exactly the same clearance(width). It may appear that the Metolius TCU is thinner, but no, its just tapered.
Anyways, real differences - The Aliens have a more durable trigger system in my opinion, in that the trigger wires never really contact the rock (being so small). Whereas the TCU wires run the lenght of the stem, exposing them slightly (very slightly. in comparison to say the WC or BD cams the U shaped body of the TCU actually protects the trigger wires more.)
Hybrids ROCK!!! If you can find 'em buy 'em. They will make you love climbing those old scars. Again HB offsets, and recently Metolius Astro nuts... Yeah Baby!!!
|
|
|
|
|
wlderdude
Sep 19, 2002, 8:43 PM
Post #15 of 15
(2828 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2002
Posts: 1123
|
I don't own either, but if I were climbing sandstone or other rock that has lots of loose grit, I would not get Aliens. I would hate to try and get the sand out of those thin littel sots.
Maybe not a full two cents, so it's free.
|
|
|
|
|
|
