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GJKubacki
Dec 4, 2006, 4:32 PM
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What kind of gear would be necessary to do a lead climb...all gear assuming i have none besides helmet shoes and harness...thanks a lot
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jgloporto
Dec 4, 2006, 4:43 PM
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Sport or Trad?
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grampacharlie
Dec 4, 2006, 4:46 PM
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A mentor. Thatis the number one thing you need. Someone in your area with more expertise than you. An internet forum is not the best place to ask questions like this just because you'll get so many responses that you will have a hard time figuring out what you should do.
The guy at the local gear shop would be a great help too, assuming that they're not greedy, know-nothing idiots.
Find a mentor, take a class, go to the gear shop, or read a book. (John Long's How to Rock Climb)
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chanceboarder
Dec 4, 2006, 5:00 PM
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GJKubacki wrote: What kind of gear would be necessary to do a lead climb...all gear assuming i have none besides helmet shoes and harness...thanks a lot
Jason
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GJKubacki
Dec 4, 2006, 5:01 PM
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I want to do trad climbing...I've already been taught how to do a lead, I just need to know a reccomendation of what gear I would need to execute it...i can't really afford a lot of cams maybe nuts would work better?...thanks for the replies i appreciate them
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chanceboarder
Dec 4, 2006, 5:09 PM
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GJKubacki wrote: I want to do trad climbing...I've already been taught how to do a lead, I just need to know a reccomendation of what gear I would need to execute it...i can't really afford a lot of cams maybe nuts would work better?...thanks for the replies i appreciate them
Jason
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percious
Dec 4, 2006, 5:10 PM
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Gramps is right-on.
If you have been taught how to lead then you should already know what you need. And if you are scared of the cost of cams then maybe you shouldn't be leading. While there are many climbs that *can* be climbed all-passive, there are many more climbs that are made considerably safer using a combination of cams and stoppers.
Find a leader and follow, follow, follow. Look at his placements and ask how/why he selected a particular piece.
You can think of your rack as your "toolbox" The more tools you have the more options you have in terms of what to place where. A few weeks ago I climbed "sea of holes" at Whitehorse and would have given my left thumb-toe for a tri-cam!
-percious
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GJKubacki
Dec 4, 2006, 5:14 PM
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Alright thanks guys I appreciate the help...Can I get some help on what i'd need for a top rope set up then?
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grampacharlie
Dec 4, 2006, 5:22 PM
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I may be wrong, and I'm not trying to be condescending, but I'm getting the gut feeling that you have taken a class or two, or have been show a little about leading, and are now excited to try it on your own. I do not get the impression that your are completely competent and hope to god that you don't hurt yourself. That being said, here is a list of stuff that I carry every time I lead. If you don't know what something is, or how to use it, that says to me that you do not have the experience to get yourself out of a situation that can easily happen leading and that you should get more instruction before you attempt this on you own.
Mentor/experienced climbing partner.
Cordelette 20'-25' 7mm nylon
2 prussicks 6-7mm nylon
6 quickdraws
6 extendable runners
belay device, & large locking pearshaped biner
pocketknife
1-2 full sets of nuts
1 set of hexes
tricams depending on the terrain
1-2 sets of cams.
I've climbed many multi-pitch climbs and single pitch climbs with just nuts and hexes, so cams are not too important. I also learned by taking on course on climbing about fourteen years ago, and then learned through making misstakes. Misstakes aren't something you can make many of in this sport though. Be humble, admit when you don't know something, and if you're the least bit doubtful about something, don't use it, and never take someone out who is less experienced than you until you know your shit backwards and forwards.
Thanks, i"ll quit preaching now.
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percious
Dec 4, 2006, 5:23 PM
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There are threads on this if you do a search, but in all it depends on where you are leading.
Are there already anchors at the top (sport crags) are there good trees at the top? Do you plan on having to build artificial anchors at the top of the crag?
I highly recommend picking up a static rope of length 100-200 feet. I have a 200 footer and usually can set up two climbs with the same rope. You will need at least two locking carabiners for the power point, and you should probably have 4-6 other lockers, especially if you plan on rappelling your route. Rappelling is considered one of the most dangerous things to do in climbing, so make sure you get trained by someone who knows how.
-percious
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jgloporto
Dec 4, 2006, 5:36 PM
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Here is what I recommend:
1.5 sets of wires (Metolius Curved Nuts)
1 set of cams (BD Camalots and TCU's)
2 sets of the three smallest tricams (standard Gunks gear)
About 40 biners including five to ten lockers
2 21' lengths of nylon cord
1 60m rope
A bunch of webbing and slings of various lengths
1 Helmet
1 belay device
1 flask of 80 proof whatever
3 ham sandwiches
2 packs of Marlboro Mediums, 2 lighters (one in your pocket and one in the zipper compartment in your chalkbag if you have that feature) and a book of matches tucked into the helmet (I drop those things a lot)
1 picture of your arse (in case it needs kissing goodbye)
1 set of softball sized manberries
1 business card for an AV rated divorce lawyer (your priorities really get schewed with this sport)
... and a partridge in a pear tree.
Joe
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stymingersfink
Dec 6, 2006, 4:58 AM
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percious wrote: blah-blah-blah, or something to that effect. -percious
ignore any other posts you may find in this topic. listen to gramps' post above "percious" on this one.
one doesn't become old by accident. quite the opposite in fact.
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Dec 7, 2006, 3:00 AM)
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shockabuku
Dec 6, 2006, 5:19 AM
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stymingersfink wrote: one doesn't become old by accident. quite the opposite in fact.
I never really thought of people becoming old on purpose.
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stymingersfink
Dec 6, 2006, 7:02 AM
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shockabuku wrote: stymingersfink wrote: one doesn't become old by accident. quite the opposite in fact. I never really thought of people becoming old on purpose.
perhaps i should have said "chronologically advanced".
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punk_rocker333
Dec 6, 2006, 7:30 AM
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Top rope set up:
-One rope, 60 meters. The cheaper and fatter (10.5mm and up), the better.
-About 40 feet of tubular webbing.
-At least 4 to 6 carabiners (either locking or non locking, just oppose the gates for lockers).
-One sit Harness and HMS biner
-Recomendation but not necessary: book "Freedom of the Hills" You can usually find the older editions for cheap. It's full of really good information about anchor setups, equipment and everything you need to know about climbing.
This is what my friend and I started with and we were able to do several climbs. If the area you climb at doesn't have bolted anchors just sling trees, boulders or blocks. You'll get a lot of people griping to you about safety and that is important to an extent, but use common sense and you'll be fine. Just experiment to gain knowledge. How do you think climbers of the early days did it? Have fun and enjoy the days of minimalist climbing because for many it doesn't stay that way for long.
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musicman1586
Dec 6, 2006, 7:55 AM
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punk_rocker333 wrote: Top rope set up: -One rope, 60 meters. The cheaper and fatter (10.5mm and up), the better. -About 40 feet of tubular webbing. -At least 4 to 6 carabiners (either locking or non locking, just oppose the gates for lockers). -One sit Harness and HMS biner -Recomendation but not necessary: book "Freedom of the Hills" You can usually find the older editions for cheap. It's full of really good information about anchor setups, equipment and everything you need to know about climbing. This is what my friend and I started with and we were able to do several climbs. If the area you climb at doesn't have bolted anchors just sling trees, boulders or blocks. You'll get a lot of people griping to you about safety and that is important to an extent, but use common sense and you'll be fine. Just experiment to gain knowledge. How do you think climbers of the early days did it? Have fun and enjoy the days of minimalist climbing because for many it doesn't stay that way for long.
I disagree with this, when you say look at the climbers of old, well look at the number of them that went to an early grave. Many climbers of old did just buy some gear and go out and screw around, but many also took the time to learn things properly. With the wealth of experience and knowledge out there today, there is no excuse for not finding someone knowledge to truly teach you all of this stuff, and to the original poster, I'm sorry to say, but you do not know what your talking about when it comes to leading, likely even setting up top-ropes, so find an experienced climber(s) to follow around the crags and really teach you the basics. If your trying to get into trad, your not going to be leading for a while, bottom line, you need to take the time to master the basic skill of placing gear properly, and that is not something that you magically jump out of bed one day with. Good luck to you, the climbing community is great about being willing to teach new climbers, so like I said, there's no reason not to find experienced climbers to teach and help you out (and the more people you learn from the better)
Kyle
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tradrenn
Dec 7, 2006, 12:52 AM
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grampacharlie wrote: <snip>
percious wrote: <snip> In reply to: I will second both of you guys. percious wrote: A few weeks ago I climbed "sea of holes" at Whitehorse and would have given my left thumb-toe for a tri-cam! :LOL: I had 7 of them when I did it in August, I used 6 of 'em. Here is a litle like I think you might find useful. http://www.psychovertical.com/?rockrackgear GJKubacki wrote: Alright thanks guys I appreciate the help...Can I get some help on what i'd need for a top rope set up then? No. Stick to original plan man, also please do a search about trad rack and don't be surprised if you get 1000 threads about it. Grab your fovourite drink of choice and enjoy the reading. P.S. Are you Polish ?
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climberslacker
Dec 7, 2006, 4:57 AM
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grampacharlie wrote: I may be wrong, and I'm not trying to be condescending, but I'm getting the gut feeling that you have taken a class or two, or have been show a little about leading, and are now excited to try it on your own. I do not get the impression that your are completely competent and hope to god that you don't hurt yourself. That being said, here is a list of stuff that I carry every time I lead. If you don't know what something is, or how to use it, that says to me that you do not have the experience to get yourself out of a situation that can easily happen leading and that you should get more instruction before you attempt this on you own. Mentor/experienced climbing partner. Cordelette 20'-25' 7mm nylon 2 prussicks 6-7mm nylon 6 quickdraws 6 extendable runners belay device, & large locking pearshaped biner pocketknife 1-2 full sets of nuts 1 set of hexes tricams depending on the terrain 1-2 sets of cams. I've climbed many multi-pitch climbs and single pitch climbs with just nuts and hexes, so cams are not too important. I also learned by taking on course on climbing about fourteen years ago, and then learned through making misstakes. Misstakes aren't something you can make many of in this sport though. Be humble, admit when you don't know something, and if you're the least bit doubtful about something, don't use it, and never take someone out who is less experienced than you until you know your shit backwards and forwards. Thanks, i"ll quit preaching now.
uhhh.. so what exactly is this thing you call a pocket knife??
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grampacharlie
Dec 9, 2006, 1:20 AM
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Usually it has a hook shaped blade with serated edges, 6" long and strapped to my shoulder...
You never know when you, your sister, and your father will be dramatically hurled off that face of some climb, desperately clinging on by a single cam...
or cutting away old slings, opening and orange, or spreadding mayo/mustard on your ham sammich!
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shimanilami
Dec 9, 2006, 1:53 AM
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And 3 tanks of nitroglycerine, just to be safe.
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shimanilami
Dec 9, 2006, 1:58 AM
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But seriously, if you have to ask what gear you'll need to lead climb, then you shouldn't be lead climbing. I appreciate that climbing is adventurous, etc. but gravity is relentless and the ground is unforgiving. A stupid mistake can lead to serious injury or death.
Get a mentor. Follow and clean behind him/her until you know what you need to lead. And when you know, you won't need to ask.
And if you must buy something, buy a rope first.
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