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camhead
Sep 13, 2002, 1:15 AM
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Yup, you heard me.
I realize that what I'm saying borders on trad heresy; I realize that American free climbing was BORN on this rock type!!!
Furthermore, before you start dismissing this thread as the rantings of a sport climber, let me clarify that I LOVE trad, I LOVE placing gear, and I LOVE cracks.
However, I cannot find love for the Granite! Compared to sandstone, its cracks are substandard– they lack consistancy, they peter out, they flare, etc. Climb at Indian Creek and you'll understand me.
Face features? Granite cannot compare with the pockets and edges of good limestone or quartzite.
Its only strength, as far as I am concerned, is its slab. Okay, I'll give it that much: Slab away baby!
However, I hate slab, so granite really has little to offer.
bottom line? What is so firckin great about this overrated, intrusive volcanic igneous bastard of a rock type?
Does anybody agree with me? Or am I going to have a slew of Jtree and Yosemite bred climbers string me up with my set of Fatcams???
BRING IT ON!
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midwestslacker
Sep 13, 2002, 1:22 AM
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What are you complaining about Granite for? All I have is crappy quartzite and the occasional sandstone which is pretty good quality for Wisconsin. I would do anything to be on granite right now. Ive climbed it once in Colorado and I miss it. Dont knock until you try to live with out it. But I guess as long as Im climbing its all good.
Keep It Real
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veep23
Sep 13, 2002, 1:33 AM
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Yehhhh, the face climbs on City of Rocks granite blow.
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krustyklimber
Sep 13, 2002, 1:35 AM
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Pual man,
Were you out climbing in the heat, or maybe without your helmet and hit your head? You seem to have lost your mind!
I hope you find it!
Jeff
Don't take climbing for Granite!
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dsafanda
Sep 13, 2002, 1:42 AM
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Poor misguided individual. I hope you get better soon.
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camhead
Sep 13, 2002, 1:50 AM
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midwest slacker, I am currently living away from sandstone, so I can relate!
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climbinganne
Sep 13, 2002, 1:59 AM
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i love all kinds of rock, I LOVE granite of LCC and CoR the quartzite of BCC ...and AF's pockets rule...my favorite sandstone is Stu's *wink!!! ... and even my home rock...hot as hell, black, greasy schist, we lovingly refer to as shitzz!!!!
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cragchica
Sep 13, 2002, 2:07 AM
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I have no real allegiance to any particular type of rock. I have climbed Red Rocks sandstone, Jacks Canyon limestone, I've climbed Yosemite too. I love them all!
I must say, however, I didn't really like granite myself until I experienced Southern Arizona Granite. It is beautiful! Gorgeous! it has huecos, chickenheads, cracks, fissures... On Mt. Lemmon you'll often find it laced with delicate bands of quartz crystals. In Cochise Stronghold you can climb entire pitches slinging only chickenheads as pro. For photos of Cochise and it's goreous granite... It is an entirely different experience than most granite around. If you don't believe me please come visit and climb it for yourself - the invitation is open.
~Andria
[ This Message was edited by: cragchica on 2002-09-12 19:17 ]
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coconutz
Sep 13, 2002, 2:11 AM
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You have to remember that the Granite you climbed on in the Wichita mountains is some of the oldest exposed rock in the world. The Wichita mountains are also one of the oldest "mountain ranges" in North America. They have eroded away quite a bit. The cracks there are usually flaring and slick like you said. This, however is not like the granite everwhere else. Granite usually has pretty uniform crack and dosen't typically have flaring cracks. The flaring cracks in the Wichita mountains was more than lickly formed by cooling from the Lava that poured over it 500 to 550 million years ago. That is a lot of time to be exposed to the elements and erosion.
[ This Message was edited by: coconutz on 2002-09-12 19:12 ]
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beyond_gravity
Sep 13, 2002, 2:12 AM
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What about the Granite boulders? Gotta love the slopers!
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camhead
Sep 13, 2002, 2:15 AM
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Oh yeah!!!
I forgot about slopers. Let me restate my case.
I really really really hate granite!
and I've been on it at places other than the Wichitas (LCC, City of Rocks, Wind Rivers).
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coconutz
Sep 13, 2002, 2:35 AM
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congradulations
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krustyklimber
Sep 13, 2002, 2:43 AM
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All Granite is tertiary rock, and is as old as the solid crust of the earth, as it is the original crust!
It was all formed in the Earths early violent days, and not much of it survives today. Once it has subducted into the earths furances down below it is gone forever... only to resurface as new basalt, which pours out over great expanses of wet earth and with it's power and heat created places like Devils Tower, Smith Rocks, Jacks Canyon. Even Pauls beloved Indian creek was created by the gravitational forces pulling the weight of the original Earths crust, floating into a molten planet. And that heat created in it's sinking crust, and the rock that oozed out to fill its place, caused the diversity of rock we all can utilize for our enjoyment.
Be glad in your use of our planets dwindling Granite it's time on this Earth, not unlike yours, is fleeting "Catch Time" and share it with the stone, whatever kind it is. There will be more sandstone, limestone, and basalt formed, for as long as the Earth is alive, but not granite.
I love Granite.
Sandstone is overrated!
Jeff
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sonofspork
Sep 13, 2002, 2:48 AM
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Granite is kick ass. Granted, Joshua Tree quartzite is very rough and can be a pain in the ass. But, the granite at Tahquits is great. Also, granite bouldering kicks tons of ass. And ohh no....the crack is not the same the whole way. That's the stupidest shit, saying that granite sucks cuz it flares or whatever. Learn to deal with it. The difference in characteristic of each crack or parts of the same one make it more challenging and interesting.
-sONofSpORk
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nbrown
Sep 13, 2002, 2:59 AM
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All Climbing is fun on any type of rock.
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beyond_gravity
Sep 13, 2002, 3:09 AM
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Thats reminds me...
"It's all climbing brutha"
Adam quote
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okieterry
Sep 13, 2002, 3:22 AM
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camhead - I know what you mean. I climb at the Wichitas all the time and you're right, it isn't the best. Most of the time you're pulling on sharp little crap. For good cracks, try "desperate reality". its nice and smooth and pure. other good cracks are in the wichitas are "steep show" and "drop dead" on lost dome and "Ra", "Claw", "Babes on Harleys", and "Power Series" on Crab Eyes.
If you want really smooth, flawless stone, pm me and I'll give you directions to the quarry. the quality of rock here and the climbing rivals anything that I've seen anywhere.
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jgill
Sep 13, 2002, 3:22 AM
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Back in the Dark(i.e., Golden)Ages I fell off more granite problems than Dakota sandstone problems. Therefore, I like sandstone (or quartzite) better.
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okieterry
Sep 13, 2002, 3:43 AM
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Speaking of granite....John, your ascent of the thimble was one of the greatest climbs ever. I think that it signified the beginning of a new age - where the unthinkable is possible.
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blindslap
Sep 13, 2002, 4:52 AM
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i'm happy on any rock. (except some of that nasty, flaky, rotten quartzite in BCC)
just be happy you can climb.
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climbingcam
Sep 13, 2002, 5:29 AM
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Hey thats great- more granite for me baby. Ha. (there's this thing called technique that you have to learn)
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climbinganne
Sep 13, 2002, 5:31 AM
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camhead...i finally get it...hahahahahahahahaha
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camhead
Sep 13, 2002, 7:40 PM
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What do you finally get, Anne???
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radistrad
Sep 13, 2002, 8:01 PM
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Cha dude!
Granite rocks. From the way you describe your perfect sandstone cracks it sounds like there is not as much of a challenge and your technique does not have to be as well rounded as it does for granite.
I have not climbed you perfect sandstone cracks, but I bet my granite experince will enable to to do quite well as my technique is fairly well rounded.
Granite rocks, and the sandstone near me requires sloper technique.
[ This Message was edited by: radistrad on 2002-09-13 13:36 ]
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mikedano
Sep 13, 2002, 8:28 PM
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This post has upset me more than any other, including all the ones about bolting.
DUDE??!?!!
Granite rules all. What granite have you climbed on, to make such a terrible statement? God hates people like you. All I have to say is: Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO. It is granite crack at its best.
I need to go take a shower or something, this has upset me so...
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