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nostalgia
Dec 13, 2006, 3:06 PM
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Registered: Jun 18, 2004
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"This is basically the weight of the belayer and the cl...faller."
Classic :)
-Joe
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cantbuymefriends
Dec 13, 2006, 3:29 PM
Post #3 of 15
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Registered: Aug 28, 2003
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Read an article about ice screws a while ago.
Some guys working at a car company "borrowing"  a crash test dummy and subjecting it to factor 1.5 falls on vertical ice, on progressively thinner and more rotten ice.
Interesting reading, indeed.
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kmc
Dec 15, 2006, 5:15 PM
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Registered: May 24, 2006
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That video is scary, but it is reassuring. I always thought another danger of taking ice falls was catching a point and breaking a leg or getting flipped over. The video will give me some comfort, but im still going to go by the "leader never falls" motto.
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chadnsc
Dec 15, 2006, 6:10 PM
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Registered: Nov 24, 2003
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Catching a point of your crampons during a lead fall is very dangerous and very possible on ice. I believe the person doing test falls in the video was doing so without crampons on to keep this from happening.
Still I don't want to fall while leading ice.
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junior_co
Dec 16, 2006, 4:26 AM
Post #6 of 15
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Registered: Dec 10, 2006
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chadnsc wrote: Catching a point of your crampons during a lead fall is very dangerous and very possible on ice.
Would you/could you please explain what you mean by this... Why is this dangerous?
Sorry for my ignorance...
Junior
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andypro
Dec 16, 2006, 5:29 AM
Post #7 of 15
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junior_co wrote: Would you/could you please explain what you mean by this... Why is this dangerous? Sorry for my ignorance... Junior
While I'm not in his head, I'm pretty sure he means this..
Imagine yourself falling with crampons on. All of a sudden your foot hits the ice and digs in. It stops, but the rest of you keeps going. See the problem?
The outcome could be varied...from nothing happening all the way to snapping your ankle/leg or anywhere in between... sprians, bruising, various soft tisue damage. It can also flip you upside down which has it's own dangers.
--Andy P
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junior_co
Dec 16, 2006, 11:39 AM
Post #8 of 15
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Registered: Dec 10, 2006
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andypro wrote: It can also flip you upside down which has it's own dangers. --Andy P
I can see what you're talking about... But the upside down thing... Would you mind elaborting on that. I could see the potential of coming out of a harness, especially when it is over all the winter gear. Is that the concern, or am I missing something...
Thanks
Junior
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marde
Dec 16, 2006, 12:55 PM
Post #9 of 15
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Registered: Sep 3, 2006
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you won't come out of your harness.
But you will certainly crash your head into the ice, rock,
your icetools etc.
Not to talk about the rest of your body.
By the way i'd prefer hitting a ledge or the ground with my feet rather than with my head.
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junior_co
Dec 16, 2006, 2:00 PM
Post #10 of 15
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Registered: Dec 10, 2006
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Thanks for the info...
Much appreciated!!
Good luck out there...
Junior
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styndall
Dec 16, 2006, 6:05 PM
Post #12 of 15
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Registered: May 29, 2002
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marde wrote: you won't come out of your harness. But you will certainly crash your head into the ice, rock, your icetools etc. Not to talk about the rest of your body. By the way i'd prefer hitting a ledge or the ground with my feet rather than with my head.
Even without the danger if hitting ledges, an uncontrolled, upside-down fall with a sudden arrest when all four of your appendages attached to stabby things is a nightmare.
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kmc
Dec 17, 2006, 1:48 AM
Post #13 of 15
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Registered: May 24, 2006
Posts: 252
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Looking back at the video, I see that they were not wearing crampons.
I assume that whatever that thing was on the screws was measuring the force of the fall. Does anyone know if that is also some sort of energy absorbing device as well? If they are taking big rides like that and they arent even using screamers, or something similiar, that is very reasuring.
The dangers of falling on ice have been said earlier. But did you see the "damage report"? (3 Broken Ribs, Finger, Toe) That was without points on, it could be potentially much worse with them on.
I've seen a lot of falls, none of ice, but they looked awefully painful. Almost looked like he was falling on a static line with the way he was stopping so hard. Anyone else think that?
~Kevin
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redpoint73
Dec 19, 2006, 4:47 PM
Post #14 of 15
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Registered: Aug 20, 2002
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In reply to: But the upside down thing... I could see the potential of coming out of a harness, especially when it is over all the winter gear.
If you harness is properly fitted, it should be impossible to pull it down over your hipbones. This will make it impossible to fall out of your harness in the event of an upside-downer. This is true with or w/o winter layers. If this is not the case w. your harness, then your harness fits improperly and you need a new harness.
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secretninja
Dec 25, 2006, 4:42 AM
Post #15 of 15
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Registered: Dec 2, 2005
Posts: 154
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You wouldnt happen to remember where that article was, would you? Sounds like it would be quite a read...
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