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the_shoe
Dec 17, 2006, 8:01 AM
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I have been following Trad for the last year and a half on routes into the 10's and have recently led some 5.6 and 5.7 second pitches at Tahquitz and Suicide. I have gotten the "go for it!" from my mentor so I am taking a trip to J-Tree this week and I am looking for some easy classic trad routes to lead.
I am quite comfortable on the sharp end (lead tons of sport and exposed second pitches) but still a little wet in placing gear on lead when mentor isn't there. My mentor has tought me quite well I just need to step out any info would be helpful thanks.
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blazesod
Dec 17, 2006, 8:24 AM
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the_shoe,
Do you want to get more comfortable placing your trad gear? Here is an exercise I suggest you do until you are 100% comfortable with placing gear on your own. You can also do this on rest days or while you are waiting for your hung over partner to crawl out of his tent.
Find a place that will take protection at ground level. Like a wall with many cracks in close proximity to each other. You will not need a rope or belayer for this.
Rack your gear as you would if you were climbing: draws, carabiners, slings and all. Then set out to place 10 solid pieces of pro keeping your feet on (close to) the ground. Clip a trad draw or something on the end of each piece for practice and to help you find those small stoppers later.
If you have a more experienced partner, ask him/ her to critique your placements before you clean them.
This simple exercise helped accelerate the learning curve for me. I hope it will help you as well.
Cheers,
Dave :)
(This post was edited by blazesod on Dec 17, 2006, 8:26 AM)
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the_shoe
Dec 17, 2006, 8:48 AM
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Dave,
I appreciate the advice. I have been doing mock leads and actual leads with my partner critiquing my placements for a while and both of us feel it is time for me to step out onto the sharp end on a more consistent basis. I guess what I am getting at is I am like the baby bird about to fly from the nest for the first time. I have got the knowledge I just need to flap my wings and fly.
So this week I will be climbing with out my mentor being around and am looking for some easy stuff at the Tree to jump on. I am really comfortable with anchor building and belaying my second and with climbing at J-Tree. The only issue I am having is finding easier good quality climbs. I don't want to just hop on a .8 or .9 even though those grades are well with in my ability. I have followed a ton of classic moderate (5.7 to 5.10c) routes at the Tree and am trying to seperate the shity easy routes from the classic (must do first lead)routes.
(This post was edited by the_shoe on Dec 17, 2006, 8:51 AM)
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jermeng
Dec 17, 2006, 9:41 AM
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Hey 'shoe,
If you get a chance, you might like to check out "the Trad Guide to Joshua Tree". It's features 60 "classic" routes from 5.5 to 5.9. It's nice as iit has route description, full color photos, rack/approach/descent info, as well as am/pm sun (which has been very useful for me). We tend to use this book w/ Vogel's to fully soak up the climbs in an area. My friend has been working her way from the .5's up and is steadily progressing through the grades.
I don't have either book handy at the moment; but I might recommend checking out Dairy Queen Wall, as it has several well protected, moderates. Either way, enjoy,
Jeremy
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socalclimber
Dec 17, 2006, 2:06 PM
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Since I live in Josh I figured I'd throw my .02 worth in. First and foremost, don't get complacent with the numbers. For a new leader there are plenty of 5.7 and 5.8 routes that will scare the hell out of you and test your limits. You might want to start with some warm up leads at Trash Can Rock (first picnic area in the park). Easy routes, easy to protect, easy to get off. Hit the west side of the formation. Next maybe head to Hidden Valley and go do The Bong. Another fun one is The Eye on Cyclops. All these routes are around 5.3 to 5.5. Don't push your leading limits along with your climbing limits. Another place I highly recommend is Atlantis Wall. A bunch of 5.4 to 5.7 close together with ample gear.
Have a party, be safe!
Robert
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crackmeup
Dec 17, 2006, 3:35 PM
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I second The Bong. I did it last week as my first trad lead at JTree. It's easy yet still a cool route. There's a big boulder at the top that you can use as a bomber anchor. My approach is to take it easy, enjoy the routes and move up grades slowly as I get more confident. Wish I could be there now!
PS: You probably already know this but don't try Double Cross (5.7+) unless you know what you are getting into. It seems easy on top rope, but I heard it's not uncommon for people to jump on it, zipper and get killed or badly hurt.
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socalclimber
Dec 17, 2006, 4:02 PM
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crackmeup wrote: I second The Bong. I did it last week as my first trad lead at JTree. It's easy yet still a cool route. There's a big boulder at the top that you can use as a bomber anchor. My approach is to take it easy, enjoy the routes and move up grades slowly as I get more confident. Wish I could be there now! PS: You probably already know this but don't try Double Cross (5.7+) unless you know what you are getting into. It seems easy on top rope, but I heard it's not uncommon for people to jump on it, zipper and get killed or badly hurt.
Yeah routes like DC will get you into trouble fast. Another is Nutcracker at Cap Rock. Also, Toe Jam may be a decent route to step up to. Just take your time, the rock will be there then next time you come out.
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climbingaggie03
Dec 17, 2006, 4:37 PM
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The bong is good, toe jam is good, spider is a variation of toe jam it's 5.8, but reasonably well protected. Overhanging traverse on intersection rock is fun, but sometimes crowded. I wasn't a fan of the eye on cyclops, lots of big holds but crumbly rock for gear.
If you feel ambitious and comfortable in chimneys, the flake, 5.8 is really fun, the chimney is kinda awkward and intimidating, but after that, it's an amazing face climb with a crack running along side for gear, and it's #1 camalot/green power cam for forever.
There's also lots of good easy/moderates in the lost horse area. The 60 trad climbs book 5.5-5.9 will get you a long ways.
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the_shoe
Dec 17, 2006, 5:20 PM
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Hey thanks guys for all the great info. I have no intentions to rush myself into the higher grades. I am quite aware of how scary a 5.7 can be at the Tree. Climbing for me has always been about fun and saftey, and I am not about to let that change for anything.
I am glad to see that alot of the routes you guys have returned me are some of the ones I have been looking at doing. Thanks again for coming through for a fellow climber.
I'll see you all from my perch on top of the world.
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socalclimber
Dec 17, 2006, 5:25 PM
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The Eye is no real big deal, the rock is good, you just need to be aware of your gear. Lots of horizontal placements. Good exposure, should be right up your alley. I've lead that a zillion times and solo'd it a zillion times. To a new leader it's a really good route.
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trenchdigger
Dec 17, 2006, 5:25 PM
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crackmeup wrote: PS: You probably already know this but don't try Double Cross (5.7+) unless you know what you are getting into. It seems easy on top rope, but I heard it's not uncommon for people to jump on it, zipper and get killed or badly hurt.
I never have understood this. Yes, it's a hard 5.7, and the first pro is about 25' off the deck. But the climbing up the slab to the first pro is easy. Once in the main crack, the pro is straightforward and solid.
I led this route in my first few months of trad leading and protected the route with only passive pro (which is how I was taught to lead - passive only at first).
Don't get me wrong, this isn't a 5.7 for budding 5.7 leaders. Not because it's difficult to place pro, but because the climbing requires jamming skills. I could understand someone getting hurt falling from the slab start, but someone who rips pro on double cross shouldn't be placing gear there.
The recommendation of the 60 trad leads book is probably good. The detailed info it provides will be helpful to you while you're building your skills, although some of the routes are less than classic (but still good routes). Do a search on Mountainproject.com for JTree routes within a certain grade range. Quality ratings there are generally pretty good since they involve a concensus of users. Also keep in mind that "classic" easier routes are going to be very popular and tend to have a lot of people taking a long time on them. Be patient and wait your turn or go find something further from the road.
Enjoy, have fun, and climb safe.
~Adam~
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socalclimber
Dec 17, 2006, 5:29 PM
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"I never have understood this. Yes, it's a hard 5.7, and the first pro is about 25' off the deck."
I can tell you exactly why. Most new leaders/climbers have zero crack skills. They have very little in the way of footwork skills either. Combine the two, now you have a route that is "difficult" for the grade. It's also pretty steep.
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socalclimber
Dec 17, 2006, 6:03 PM
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Cool deal, sounds like your head is on straight. But remember, lots of people think they have skills they don't posses. They just don't know it. That's why I said don't get complacent with the ratings. Just go out, start out easy, figure out where your comfort level is, and progress from there. You'll do fine.
[EDIT]
Just because you are stepping out on lead, doesn't mean you know how to climb.
(This post was edited by socalclimber on Dec 17, 2006, 6:22 PM)
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climbingaggie03
Dec 17, 2006, 8:25 PM
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Maybe I just had high standards coming from yosemite and redrocks in the previous days before climbing the eye, but I was just not impressed by the climb, it wasn't hard, it just wasn't that great, and the rock quality was scarily bad (from what I remember).
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socalclimber
Dec 17, 2006, 9:25 PM
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"and the rock quality was scarily bad (from what I remember). "
 He he he... My friend, if you thought the rock quality on that route is "scarily bad", you ain't seen nothing yet. Spend a day with me sometime...
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the_shoe
Dec 17, 2006, 10:35 PM
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Socal,
Much appreciated. I will do all I can to keep my head on straight and take it easy. It's a slow, new learning curve and I look forward to the process.
Thanks to everyone who took the time to present me with some guidance.
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socalclimber
Dec 18, 2006, 12:26 AM
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My pleasure. Have a great time. I'm not trying to spook you, just trying to help you keep your perspective. You did mention early on in your post that you were still getting comfortable with your gear placements. That's why I gave the advice that I did. You'll be fine. Have a great time.
BTW, I've covered alot of terrain over the last 15 years, and I STILL HAVE A MENTOR!
Robert Fonda
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ffaallliinngg
Dec 18, 2006, 1:33 AM
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Registered: Apr 21, 2002
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Shoe,
Since you are going this week it may be cold. If you are like me and are subject to frostbite when the temperature drops below 60, you might want to add "warm, sunny" to your search criteria. So...
INDIAN COVE:
The Mikado--5.6, good pro, walk to rap or do weird second pitch
The Reverend--easy 5.8, good pro
Plain but Good Hearted 5.6--don't believe what others say this is a good route that protects well. Bring #1 camalot to stick in a pod at the top where it looks runout
Lucky Charms 5.7--on Moosedog tower. Set up anchor on top of vertical climbing, do horizontal second pitch to rap anchors
MAIN PART OF PARK
Lazy Day 5.7 sunny
most other 5.7s are shady
BEST FIRST 5.7 LEADS REGARDLESS OF WEATHER
Mentalphysics
Double Dogleg
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socalclimber
Dec 18, 2006, 1:41 AM
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Good advice. The high today was around 46. They are predicting night time lows in the 20's this week. Dress in layers
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blazesod
Dec 18, 2006, 6:38 AM
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Oh, I looks like I was running through left field....
This link is a decent online resource to the information you seek. If you want sun vs. shade info for an area, send me a PM.
http://www.joshuatreeclimb.com/...t/goodleadsguest.htm
Cheers,
Dave :)
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btreanor
Dec 18, 2006, 6:58 AM
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I know you might want to look for a couple of 5 star routes, but in my experience, the routes under 5.9 at Josh tend to be less than 5 star (yes, before y'll bite my head off, there are many exceptions). Since the days are short and you don't want to drive all over trying to hit classic routes (you will only get in a couple that way). Try sticking around HVCG. Several routes on my circut there would fit the bill: The Bong (5.4), Tennis Shoe Crack (short 5.8), Avocado Crack (or something like that, I forget the exact name, 5.7), Toe Jam (5.7?), Spider (5.8?), The Eye (5.0)--these are all within a stone's throw of each other. If you are there for longer than a day or two, other areas of high concentration include Trash Can Rock, Atlantis Wall (grainy rock), Thin Wall, Dairy Queen Wall. Other routes worth doing in this range include Fote Hog (5.6, Real Hidden Valley), Sail Away (5.8, Real Hidden Valley), and, bumped up a notch, North Overhang (5.9, HVCG) and Overhang Bypass (5.7, HVCG). Umm, can't think of others right now, plus the above list is plenty for other folks to start screaming why I'm wrong... Have fun and don't worry too much about all the dire warnings. You sound like you have put in your time (and if you haven't, thats on you) and when you get down to it, so much of climbing is really pretty darn common sensical. All the internet screaming and hairsplitting about kilonewtons, etc. is interesting but ultimately pretty unnecessary. Keep up with your mentor, assuming he or she is good, and keep putting in the days on the rock and you will be fine.
Brian
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worldonastrng
Dec 20, 2006, 4:31 AM
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An easy 5.6 2-pitch that bakes in the sun is Mike's Books on Intersection rock. Lots of fun stem moves and good jams and pretty good gear. Once you get comfortable, check eff eight, a 15 minute walk from the campground, Its a short, pumpy, 5.8, left-leaning crack. Very fun and easy to protect.
Buisonnier (5.7) is also a fun route in the campground.
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