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supercraker
Sep 13, 2002, 9:54 PM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2002
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Any websites show/explain how to rig the grigri for soloing. I currently use it unaltered and havn't taken any inverted dives, but better safe right. Oh yea, nice pic on the highline Ammon.
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genlock
Sep 28, 2002, 6:29 PM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2002
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Take a look at this page..
http://ulrichprinz.com/alpin/equipment/selfmade/#grigri
found that one the other day.. wotrh it!
- Genlock
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apollodorus
Sep 28, 2002, 7:45 PM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
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One thing about soloing on the Gri-Gri is that as you get higher, the weight of the rope will want to pull it back through and hang below you. Since you have back-up knots on the rope ahead of you, they'll keep the rope from sliding all the way down, but you'll still have alot of slack below.
Dr. Piton's solution is to use 7 or 8mm loops to tie prusik (klemheist) knots to rebelay the rope about every fifty feet, or wherever the rope will rub against an edge as you jug it to clean. You clip the prusik to a group of equalized bomber pieces that are good against both upward and downward pulls. Pull all the slack out of the rope going down to the lower belay.
Using the prusik to rebelay the rope is not a bad idea if you are climbing with a second, either. If the rope goes over an edge, rebelaying there will keep it from rubbing when it gets jugged.
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psirro
Sep 28, 2002, 9:48 PM
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Registered: Mar 12, 2002
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can i see a pic. of this plz?
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taxexile
Sep 30, 2002, 8:28 AM
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Registered: May 21, 2002
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Tom
Can you explain why you need to use equalised pro that can take multi-directional force? I've used this method a bit and always assumed that the piece needs only to be able to take downward force.
I assume that for upward force to come into play you would need to whip onto a higher piece and for rope stretch to make the prusik apply upward pull on the re-belayed piece.
I thought the basic idea was to use a long-enough sling on the prusik to prevent this from happening?
Does this all make sense?
As an aside, I found this method really useful recently on a pitch where the bottom anchor was two inverted cams. I prusik re-belayed on the first bomber piece above the anchor so that I could put upward tension the anchor. This stopped the cam slings from flopping around and risking cross-loading on the power point locker.
Duncan
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