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MrFreefall383
Dec 25, 2006, 7:36 PM
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OK, so here's the deal. My parents bought me a 3 month pass to my local rock gym to save me some money to eventually buy my own parachute rig. Christmas was good to me. Included with the pass was the purchase of any pair of new climbing shoes, up to a $150 base price limit. The question now is, what should I be looking for? I do occasional roped climbs, more into bouldering now, haven't been outdoors more than a few times but would like to do more of that in the near future.
Specific questions are, should I be looking at velcro versus tie shoes, or the other way around? Should I be looking for a shoe with an angled design, or something that is more or less flat? Should I be looking toward the big names, or should I be looking toward the lesser-knowns?
The shoe I'm using now is a Boreal Equinox. Nice cheap starter shoe. Has lasted me quite a while, a number of years now, and is still in fantastic shape. I might have considered a new pair of shoes, but not for at least another 3-6 months. They're starting to get a little slippery, but they still have plenty of life left. Regardless, I've got a free pass for new pair of better shoes, so what's the word? Anyone have any recommendations?
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ja1484
Dec 25, 2006, 8:15 PM
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Go for something a little more aggressive but not insanely esoteric. Stick with a tried and true design. A few classics:
La Sportiva Miura
Evolv Bandit
5.10 Anasazi
I wouldn't go with a majorly downturned design just yet. The Miura is slightly cambered but is flexible enough that it'll bend the other way when you want it to.
Whatever you do, just stay the hell away from Mad Rock.
If you can get them in your area, you might also want to look at Acopa shoes - I haven't used them, but I've heard nothing but good things from people I trust.
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MrFreefall383
Dec 25, 2006, 8:31 PM
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Interesting. I was looking at the 5.10 Anasazi, just wasn't sure how well it would fit indoor bouldering.
Strange that you say avoid Mad Rock. I've heard some good things about the Flash lately from a guy who regularly competes at our gym's events. What's your specific gripe or gripes about Mad Rock? I'd just love more input on that, might be pretty valuable in my decision-making process.
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ja1484
Dec 25, 2006, 9:32 PM
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Mad Rock's #1 issue is that they fall the hell apart. Mad Rock Flash are decent beginner shoes due to the low cost, but they come apart especially quickly for young'ns with poor footwork. On top of this, they don't perform significantly differently from other, more durable brands. I have a pair of mugens (the first and last pair of Mad Rocks I'll own) and only use them as a gym shoe now - and only then because I am determined to at least get some of my $60 worth out of them.
You're better off spending a little more for a pair by Evolv. They're much higher quality shoes for not much more money. Since you're above the magic $120 mark, you're pretty much in the clear - almost any good pair out there can be had for that sum.
I do have one good thing to say about mad rock however: Their ribbed heel design is both comfortable and effective. More manufacturers should look into "modifying" it.
I would also add that if bouldering is your primary plan, also look into the Evolv Kaos, which I believe is being replaced in their lineup by the Evolv Pontas.
(This post was edited by ja1484 on Dec 25, 2006, 9:40 PM)
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cmacblue42
Dec 26, 2006, 1:25 AM
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Oh man, free shoes!! Since you say you are mostly into bouldering and a little bit of roped (which i am asuming top rope or sport since you did say "a little bit") i would look into a velcro or slipper style shoe. I personally prefer velcro just because it combines the fit of laces and the ease of slippers.
Some shoes i can name off the bat are:
La sportiva kantana and barracuda
Five Ten gallileo and anasazi
Evolv Evo or Pontas
I do not think you would want a pair of downturned shoes yet, since it will be your second pair, eve though i would say they are awesome shoes.
Also, can you only get 1 pair with that amount or as many as you can get with 150 bux?
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styndall
Dec 26, 2006, 1:58 AM
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ja1484 wrote: Mad Rock's #1 issue is that they fall the hell apart. Mad Rock Flash are decent beginner shoes due to the low cost, but they come apart especially quickly for young'ns with poor footwork. On top of this, they don't perform significantly differently from other, more durable brands. I have a pair of mugens (the first and last pair of Mad Rocks I'll own) and only use them as a gym shoe now - and only then because I am determined to at least get some of my $60 worth out of them. You're better off spending a little more for a pair by Evolv. They're much higher quality shoes for not much more money. Since you're above the magic $120 mark, you're pretty much in the clear - almost any good pair out there can be had for that sum. I do have one good thing to say about mad rock however: Their ribbed heel design is both comfortable and effective. More manufacturers should look into "modifying" it. I would also add that if bouldering is your primary plan, also look into the Evolv Kaos, which I believe is being replaced in their lineup by the Evolv Pontas.
Mad Rocks work fine, and are just about as durable as any other shoes out there.
That said, if I had 150 to spend on an awesome pair of shoes, I'd probably pick up some Sportiva Miuras.
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MrFreefall383
Dec 26, 2006, 2:00 AM
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Sadly, only one pair of shoes. I'll probably keep the old Boreals as a beater pair for working on technique when I feel like challenging myself. As for a downturned toe, I don't think I'll get that yet either. Seems like it wouldn't be worthwhile at this point. I'm not at the point where I'm doing climbing quite that advanced.
As for the ones you mentioned, I'm looking very closely at the Evo. Pontas and Anasazi look great, although I think the ribbed heel seems like a good thing for me right now, which is making the Evo more and more appealing. I could use some kind of added benefit toward improving my heel-hooking technique. Anyway, the Evo is listed as less expensive than both the Anasazi and the Pontas, so that's an added benefit. If the 'rents give me a free-choice gift up to a certain amount and I go under that a bit, they're more likely to extend the same offer again sooner rather than later. Good for me, especially since I've got rather expensive hobbies.
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ja1484
Dec 26, 2006, 2:19 AM
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styndall wrote: Mad Rocks work fine, and are just about as durable as any other shoes out there. That said, if I had 150 to spend on an awesome pair of shoes, I'd probably pick up some Sportiva Miuras.
This would be true if it was not entirely false.
Well, I suppose the part about how they work is fair enough. They climb like most any other shoe. But they are nowhere near as durable. Look around a bit, read some reviews...it's easy enough to see.
(This post was edited by ja1484 on Dec 26, 2006, 2:19 AM)
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styndall
Dec 26, 2006, 2:26 AM
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ja1484 wrote: styndall wrote: Mad Rocks work fine, and are just about as durable as any other shoes out there. That said, if I had 150 to spend on an awesome pair of shoes, I'd probably pick up some Sportiva Miuras. This would be true if it was not entirely false. Well, I suppose the part about how they work is fair enough. They climb like most any other shoe. But they are nowhere near as durable. Look around a bit, read some reviews...it's easy enough to see.
I've owned some since 2003 that are only on their second sole, in spite of fairly heavy use. They've lasted just as well as my Mythos, and they've outdone my Katanas (though I admit to dragging my toes a bit on my harder bouldering adventures).
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musicman1586
Dec 26, 2006, 2:46 AM
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I second, third, fourth, yada yada the vote for no Mad Rocks, never seen a pair last all that long and I work in a climbing gym so I see them quite a bit, and here everyone's bitchy stories about them, and like others have said, they don't work any better than any other shoe, so (once again as others have said) go with a brand better known for durability (get the trend here?). That said, you mentioned the Evo and the ribbed heel being a deciding factor, but let me insist that you don't place alot of weight onto that lil design. Yes it can be beneficial on some holds, however it always isn't. With a regular heel you get alot more surface area on most holds then the ribs allow, and more surface area means more gripping rubber. Plus on top of that, if your no good at heel hooks to begin with, nothing is going to really help you, you just have to learn how to throw it on there and make it stay, so consider the more important things of a shoe, which is how it fits when your foot is inside of it, not what it has on the outside.
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ja1484
Dec 26, 2006, 2:58 AM
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Yeah, I would like to intone at this point that no aspect of shoe design will make you a better climber. Some things may make certain aspects easier (i.e. downturned toes help pocketing on very steep terrain), but if you can't climb well, a new shoe isn't going to pull you out of that hole.
As a matter of fact, it's best to learn how to climb in very basic shoes, such as the Sportiva Cliffs or Mythos, or the 5.10 Spire or Coyote. When you've mastered the basics with a "vanilla" shoe, a more specialized model just seems to ease things along that much sweeter.
It's the same with pro - learn to lead trad first with all passive gear, nuts, hexes, and tricams. Once you've gotten quite proficient with those pieces, adding cams later on makes protecting seem like cake. Not only are you better at the process of selecting and placing protection, but your head is better prepared for things like runouts, desperate stances, and the like due to having to forsake certain areas that would have taken a cam, but not a passive piece. Likewise, you'll learn how to make chocks fit whether they want to or not, and not become overly reliant on plug-and-go.
Wow. That digressed more than I intended.
Anyway, yeah, if you want to improve your heel hooking, go with a shoe you think would help you less in that area. If you can already hook well with a shoe fighting against you, imagine what you can do when you move on to one that suits your style.
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MrFreefall383
Dec 26, 2006, 2:59 AM
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Thanks for the corrections to my perceptions musicman. That is a good point about the heel ribs. More surface area is always favorable. That said, would the Defy possibly be a better choice as a close comparison to the Evo considering a base price of less than $100?
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ckirkwood9
Dec 26, 2006, 3:07 AM
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like every climber out there who likes his/her own gear.... i LOVE my La Sportiva Mythos shoes... i own 3 pair and my most-used pair has seen 5 resoles and. i DO own a pair of Mad Rock pheonix shoes... the're really comffy and cheap. i've not gone through one sole yet... but i don't wear them as much as my La Sportivas (which fit like a slipper after 5 weeks break in - they stretched perfectly!) the're $120
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musicman1586
Dec 26, 2006, 3:51 AM
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MrFreefall383 wrote: Thanks for the corrections to my perceptions musicman. That is a good point about the heel ribs. More surface area is always favorable. That said, would the Defy possibly be a better choice as a close comparison to the Evo considering a base price of less than $100?
Well I still think the Evo is a good shoe, know many people that use them, just saying, don't let the heel be what picks it for you, go with what fits best, and like the guy above said, La Sportiva Mythos are the greatest shoes in the world (just personal preference, but Alex Huber put up most of his free routes on El Cap wearing Mythos, so yeah  ) Their a true do it all shoe if you want a real work horse, I don't think there's a better all-arounder out there. Sorry, that's a shameless plug, back to what I said, what matters most is how the shoe fits you, nothing more, nothing less.
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MrFreefall383
Dec 26, 2006, 4:09 AM
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OK. Well, thanks for all the advice. I'm going to hit the rock gym tomorrow and see if I can demo a pair of Evolves in my size on a bouldering run or two, and go from there. With any luck it won't take me too long to find a shoe that works for me. Although I'm going to have to get used to less stiffness I think, because the Boreals were stiffer than stiff, and most of the shoes I'm looking at aren't quite that stiff from what I've been gathering. I'll be sure to post a review once I find the right shoe.
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jpartridge78
Dec 26, 2006, 4:29 AM
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I'd personally have to side with the suggestion of the LaSportiva Katanas. Since your primarily a boulderer you'll love the easy velco closure, which if you look at closely you'll see how the design lets you have a couple angles to attach the velcro straps, which lets you really adjust the shoe to the shape of your foot.
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MrFreefall383
Dec 27, 2006, 2:55 PM
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OK, so I ended up buying the Evolve Defy. Turns out an outdoor sports store about half an hour from me had them in stock in all sizes, so they held one in what I thought was my size, and I went to try it out. They had a short demo wall in the shop, so I found out that the original size was just a touch too big. Bumped down half a size, and they were real snug. My big toes hurt a little, but from what I've always been told, that's a good thing. So far the pain is keeping me from really enjoying the new shoes to their potential, but they already seem to be worlds different from the old Boreals, far better, far more capable. So once they break in a little and stretch out a touch, they will likely turn out to be a very worthy purchase.
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