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Hexes on aid routes
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jeremy11


Dec 27, 2006, 4:34 PM
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Registered: May 28, 2004
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Hexes on aid routes
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the age old question about hexes is raging through the trad forum again for 4 pages... uggh, but someone said nobody aids with hexes - so DO YOU CARRY HEXES WHILE AIDING? I have, and fell on one, but I've only done gumby practice aid up good cracks.


sawtooth_ridge


Dec 27, 2006, 5:06 PM
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Re: [jeremy11] Hexes on aid routes [In reply to]
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I'll use them........they're on my rack, and they're an occasional snug fit. But what do I know?


shimanilami


Dec 27, 2006, 5:43 PM
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Re: [jeremy11] Hexes on aid routes [In reply to]
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As a self-proclaimed warlock, I throw hexes upon every route I set eyes on.


marckylove


Dec 27, 2006, 5:50 PM
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Re: [shimanilami] Hexes on aid routes [In reply to]
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I can only imagine bringing hexes on route like the Salathe because of all the big cracks, but only if you weren't comfortable that you could free climb most of it, or you don't have a lot of big cams for some reason. Basically, I believe hexes are only good for two things: 1. starting to build a rack, 2. alpine climbing because of their weight and price (you can leave them behind without much thought)

In general I think hexes suck.


stymingersfink


Dec 27, 2006, 6:04 PM
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Re: [marckylove] Hexes on aid routes [In reply to]
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IIRC, on Lunar Eclipse's P12, where you begin to move left under the Devil's Brow, there is a fixed hex (before moving around a corner) which the second will lower-out from, as the next couple moves are hooks...

Large enough to need a cam (or stack some really big stoppers), cheap enough to fix it and forget about it!

So, if it's an FA (or an alpine route), I would definitely consider taking them. If it is a route which has been climbed more than once I'd be willing to bet anyplace a hex would fit you will use a cam instead, as they are easier to clean or back-clean.


Partner tattooed_climber


Dec 27, 2006, 9:13 PM
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Re: [stymingersfink] Hexes on aid routes [In reply to]
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i always throw my bigger metolius hexs on my tag rack (have yet to use them while doing aid).....but i find myself using my #4 and #5 BD slung hexs as often as i use nuts (in the similar sizes)


frodolf


Dec 28, 2006, 6:20 AM
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Re: [jeremy11] Hexes on aid routes [In reply to]
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My idea about my aid rack is that it's important with variation, and sometimes hexes fit better than cams. I think of them as an extension to my nuts (appropriate joke cames here). I have a ful set of Camp hexes and use them frequently. What's nice with them (Camp) is that it's very easy to thread a tie-off through the holes and by that not lose much height, even less then a cam.


(This post was edited by frodolf on Dec 28, 2006, 6:23 AM)


skinner


Dec 28, 2006, 12:24 PM
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Re: [jeremy11] Hexes on aid routes [In reply to]
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Unlike most people (it seems) I always have some small-med ones on me. I'll use them climbing if there is a spot that they'll drop right in, but the sling length rarely makes it a worth while option. Mostly they get used for anchor building to keep as much *climbing* gear on the lead rack as possible. And of course the obvious, leaving them behind doesn't hurt.. that much.


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